Upcoming Reviews, Schedule, & Potential Impediments

Posted on November 29, 2022 by Kafkaesque

I wanted to share some updates regarding the fragrances that are on tap to be reviewed in the short-term and long-term, that are still to be tested, and issues which may impact my review schedule on both a fragrance and personal levels.

There are several different categories of fragrances that I wanted to let you know about: First, the fragrances subject to (most probable) upcoming review in the weeks ahead; second, the ones I haven’t decided whether to review due to availability issues (Agar Aura and Slumberhouse) and which, as a result, I’d like to hear from you about the relevancy of coverage; and third, a broad category that consists of fragrances still to be tested or about which I haven’t yet decided if I like enough to exert the effort the effort to cover; and fourth, fragrances that I really like, such as vintage Dioressence or Tabu, but don’t have the energy or time to do the necessary research required for a vintage review, particularly with regard to the important bottle identification and the necessary comparisons across different vintage formulas and concentrations.

Slumberhouse

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Xerjoff XJ 1861 Naxos

Posted on August 12, 2016 by Kafkaesque

The XJ 1861 Collection. Source: xerjoff.com

1861 Naxos via Xerjoff's website. [Image lightly cropped by me on the sides.]

1861 Naxos via Xerjoff’s website. [Image lightly cropped on the sides by me.]

Officially, Xerjoff‘s XJ 1861 Naxos celebrates Sicily and the richness of its hesperidic traditions. In reality, I found it to be predominantly a tobacco fragrance, and a very enjoyable one at that. Prismatically complex, opulent, powerful, and rich, it’s a unisex composition that seems to take the tobacco plant from its budding flowers to its fragrant green leaves and beyond, slathering it with dark honey, lush jasmine, and bright, sun-kissed citruses, then placing it against a multi-dimensional backdrop dominated by aromatic, fresh lavender.

Yet, that is only one part of the tale because 1861 Naxos is like a kaleidoscope where the images change and realign themselves into different shapes with every click, especially in the first half of its life. Over time, the images and the notes change faster and faster, thanks to the impact of silky vanilla, dry woods, incense-like smokiness, spicy patchouli, and even some ambered booziness. The result is a bold powerhouse that has already become a big favourite with perfumistas, chosen by Basenotes readers as one of the best niche fragrances released in 2015 and frequently sold out on places like Luckyscent or Twisted Lily.

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Al-Kimiya Kemi Tempest Attar & Layla

Posted on February 2, 2016 by Kafkaesque

Al Kimiya logo via Essenza Nobile.

Al-Kimiya is the latest brand from Sergio Momo, the founder of Xerjoff, Casamorati, and Sospiro. In America, Luckyscent calls it Kemi, but that seems to be the exception to the rule. “Al-Kimiya” means “alchemy” in Arabic, and the house launched in 2014 with eight fragrances, each bearing a name derived from alchemical or Arabic traditions. (As a side note, “Al-Kimiya” is also the name of an unrelated collection from Parfums d’Orsay.) Out of Al-Kimiya or Kemi’s eight fragrances, four are eau de parfums, two are parfums, and two are attars or concentrated perfume oils (CPOs). Tempest is one of the attars, while Layla is one of the eau de parfums. I’ll take a look at each in turn.

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Super-Luxury Fragrances & The Issue of Price

Posted on November 12, 2015 by Kafkaesque

Clive Christian No. 1 Imperial Majesty via bornrich.com

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about the price of fragrances. Specifically, the question of astronomical pricing in the super-luxury niche market, and people’s reactions to it. It is something that comes up whenever I review fragrances from certain brands or luxury collections, most recently the newest Serge Lutens Section d’Or parfums. For me, it’s not as cut-and-dry an issue as it seems to be for others. The “tl;dr” summation for those who want the bottom-line is that, for all my eye-rolling, $600, $800, $1000-and-up price tags don’t really offend me, I refuse to instantly, automatically condemn fragrances bearing them, and I think it’s important both to keep an open mind and to judge things on the particulars. The rest of this post will explain my thoughts and personal reasons why.

Source: global-customer.com

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