Tag Archives: 2013 new perfume releases

New Perfume Releases: Volume 5 – April 4, 2013

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Welcome to another compilation of the latest perfumes that are either already out on the market, or that will be soon. As always, I will try to cover both men and women’s fragrances, niche and mass-market. So, yes, it will be long (very long!), but feel free to just scroll through to whatever interests you. All posts are taken via Now Smell This (“NST”), Fragrantica or some other cited source. Most of the sites have some discussion of the fragrance in question so, if you’re interested in further details, be sure to check out the original listing.

There are very few new niche fragrances coming out, beyond those previously covered. For the most part, there are just mainstream releases and additional flankers to existing fragrances, along with a number of limited-edition perfumes. Some of the many houses on the list for this post are Hermès, Byredo, Guerlain, Olfactive Studio, Carolina Herrera, Viktor & Rolf, Cacharel, M. Micallef, Marc Jacobs, Dior, DSH Perfumes, Diptyque, Judith Lieber, Jo Malone and Boucheron.

HERMÈS:

CaFleureBon reports the addition of two new Jean-Claude Ellena cologne fragrances for Hermès. The two fragrances just came out on April 1, 2013 and are as follows:

CollectionColognes-Eaudenarcissebleu

Eau de Narcisse Bleu

” A creation made with complete freedom in which I particularly wanted to express the tactile nature of the raw material”. Jean-Claude Ellena.

A distinct contemporary writing style with notes of narcissus, orange blossom, woods, galbanum.

Collection Colognes - Eau de mandarine ambree[1]

Eau de Mandarine Ambrée

” I don’t know of a more cheerful smell than Mandarin, and a more velvety one than amber” – Jean-Claude Ellena

Reinventing its classic connection  to citrus fruits Mandarine Ambrée brings a cheeky  yet gentle vitality to the genre of colognes

Notes: green mandarin, passion fruit, amber.

The perfumes cost $125 for 100 ml and $165 for 200 ml. They were released April 1st at Hermes retailers and boutiques, as well as online at www.hermes.com.

MARC JACOBS:

Honey Marc JacobsNow Smell This reports a new flanker fragrance to Marc Jacobs’ Dot. The perfume is called Honey and will be released in July 2013. According to the press release quoted by NST, Honey was developed by perfumer Annie Buzantian and will be a “fresh, floral” fragrance. Further details are available at the site but, if you’re interested in the notes, they include

pear, fruity punch, mandarin, orange blossom, peach, honeysuckle, honey, vanilla and woods.

Marc Jacobs Honey will be available in 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum sizes, along with matching lotions and body products.

CACHAREL:

In April 2013, Cacharel will release a flanker to Amor Amor called Amor Amor in a Flash. Fragrantica says it will be a limited edition scent for 2013, so I don’t know how long it will remain after the year’s end. Other details:

The new scent is inspired by the sensations of first kiss after a forbidden love, love at first sight and all the other moments that accelerate your pulse.

The composition is bold, youthful and fresh oriental-fruity, perfect for spring. It opens with fruity aromas of apricot and red apple. Delicate jasmine petals blend with sensual and spicy tones of cinnamon in the heart, laid on the base of sandalwood and sweet caramel.

Top notes: red apple, apricot
Heart: jasmine, cinnamon
Base: sandalwood, caramel

The fragrance is available from April 2013 as 30 and 50 ml Eau de Toilette.

NEELA VERMEIRE CREATIONS: 

As stated in the full press release I posted here, Neela Vermeire Créations will release a new perfume in Autumn 2013 called Ashoka. It is a tribute to a legendary Indian emperor:

His own evolution from ruthless conqueror to benevolent emperor is reflected in Ashoka’s journey from the fierce opening to a softly floral heart & the gentle embrace of its richly complex drydown.

Notes: fig leaves, leather, white and pink lotus, mimosa, fig milk, osmanthus, rose, water hyacinth, vetiver, styrax, incense, sandalwood, myrrh, tonka bean, and fir balsam.

In addition to the new perfume, Neela Vermeire will also be offering the fantastic Mohur from her existing India series in a new, higher concentration form. The original Mohur — which I loved and which I reviewed here — is an eau de parfum. Now, Neela Vermeire Créations will also offer Mohur in extrait de parfum concentration. It will come “in the original flacon in amethyst glass with a special panache spray.”

GUERLAIN:

Guerlain Flora RosaNST reports that Guerlain has launched Flora Rosa, this year’s travel retail exclusive addition to the Aqua Allegoria line. This year’s “regular” entry to the series is Nerolia Bianca; last year’s travel retail scent was Bouquet de Mai.

Flora Rosa is the new fruity floral Travel Retail exclusive fragrance. The spirit of rose and red berries is associated with white musks offering a powdery floral scent. Additional notes include iris.

Guerlain Flora Rosa is available in 75 ml Eau de Toilette. Check your international duty-free stores for availability.

There are also more details available on the Guerlain limited-edition Muguet perfume for 2013 that I wrote about in the prior New Releases post. A small snippet from the full Fragrantica article on it is as follows:

To honor this rite of the season, Jean Paul Guerlain was inspired to offer its own lily of the valley fragrance, Muguet. The fragrance gained a cult following which brought its own tradition of having the it available once a year for a limited time only. Le Muguet is offered as a token of luck, the promise of making the most of each moment. Lively, green and capricious, this fragrance heralds the arrival of spring.

The edition of Le Muguet for 2013 will be presented on April 25th as an early spring gift. In-house perfumer Thierry Wasser mingled notes of lily of the valley (i.e. muguet) in the heart with fragrance chords constructed around freshly cut roses and rich jasmine in a composition that aims to combine freshness with elegance. 

The new edition comes in the “quadrilobe” flacon, a design invented in the early 20th century. The pale green bottle has its neck encircled by pale green silk cord, the ends decorated with the initials G, standing for Guerlain, and a papier mache applique on the front depicting in relief lily of the valley blossoms. The final touch is a pear bulb atomiser which turns this fragrance into a retro-looking feminine accouterment.

Available at Guerlain boutiques and Guerlain “espaces” on April 25th, 2013.

I should add that the price for the Muguet is, like for all of Guerlain’s limited-edition Muguet perfumes, very high. I’ve read it is €400 in Europe. In the U.S., Bergdorf Goodman will be selling it for $575 for the 60 ml bottle. It is already listed there, though not yet available for purchase until April 25th.

PARFUMS VIKTORIA MINYA:

Hedonist, the first perfume from the Indie Paris perfume house of Parfums Viktoria Minya was just released, complete with a stunning bottle that features 500 Bohemian crystals inside the juice. I’ve already tried the perfume, reviewed it and loved it. Nonetheless, here are the details from the press release:

Source: Viktoria Minya.

Source: Viktoria Minya.

Hedonist, the first fragrance in the Viktoria Minya line, calls upon the spirit of hedonism – the art of devotion to the pleasure of the senses. Indeed, this bold creation’s aim is to provide a prolonged sense of indulgence to its wearer. The perfume is not only an enchanting olfactory experience, but an overall celebration of the infinite delight of the senses. To delight the sense of sight, this unique and heady scent is artfully presented within a beautifully crafted bottle filled with hundreds of genuine bohemian crystals that sparkle brilliantly, suspended within a divine golden liquid. To delight the sense of touch, the bottle itself is enclosed within a handmade wooden box fashioned to capture the sleek look and feel of snakeskin leather.

Designed for the woman who dares to be true to her desires, Hedonist is a richly provocative fragrance that combines the sweetness of love with the power of lust. Lush floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom absolute flirt with the dark intensity of rum absolute and the subtle spiciness of the world’s finest woods for a scent that is as captivating as it is unforgettable.

The notes feature rum, bergamot, peach, jasmine, orange blossom, osmanthus, vetiver, cedar, vanilla and tobacco.

Viktoria Minya Hedonist is €130 (about $168) for 45 ml Eau de Parfum, and can be purchased at the brand website, which also provides a sample (for about $6) with free shipping to anywhere in the world. And, again, here is a link to my review of it, if you’re interested.

BYREDO:

CaFleureBon has details on a new perfume from Byredo founder and nose, Ben Gorham, called Inflorescence. The site explains that: 

the name is an actual word; an inflorescence is a group or cluster of flowers arranged on a stem that is composed of a main branch or a complicated arrangement of branches.

According to the press release, ‘Inflorescence, is an Arcadian stroll through untamed bowers of full-blown, rambling roses, interspersed by the intoxicating, honeyed notes of pink freesias in their prime. Two of Spring’s very first flowers lie at the heart; the creamy-soft allure of the Magnolia blossom, its petals fully open about to drop onto beds of quivering Lily of the Valley or ‘May Bells’ –in the language of flowers, symbolic of a ‘return to happiness’ and the joy associated with the onset of spring”.  

CaFleureBon’s Perfumer of the Year 2012, Jerome Epinette of Robertet, created Inflorescence and in an unusual composition, Jasmine is  at the base.

Top: Rose Petals, Pink Freesia

Heart: Magnolia, Lily Of The Valley

Base: Jasmine

Available at Byredo.com 100ml EDP/ $220.

BOUCHERON:

Boucheron has released new, limited-edition flankers of two of its fragrances. Now Smell This has the full details:

Boucheron Jaïpur Bracelet limited edition

Boucheron has launched summer limited editions of 2012′s Jaïpur Bracelet … and 1997′s Jaïpur Homme….

Jaïpur Bracelet Limited Edition ~ “Jaipur Bracelet Summer opens with the vividness of a melange of fruits, sweet and juicy. In the heart, an exotic floral-fruity accord creates a voluptuous yet playful feel, while the a precious dry down of woody notes counterbalances the sweetness beautifully.” With notes of mandarin, red currant, raspberry, rose, lychee, woods and orris. Available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

Boucheron Jaïpur Homme limited edition

Jaïpur Homme Limited Edition

~ a woody aquatic interpretation of the original, with cantaloupe, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla and amber wood. Available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

VIKTOR & ROLF:

Viktor & Rolf will be releasing a special anniversary version of its Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose flanker to Flowerbomb. So, in essence, a flanker to the flanker. It will be called Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose 2013. Fragrantica explains:

In 2013 Viktor & Rolf celebrates the fifth birthday of the fragrance Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose with a new edition Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose 2013.

This sparkling scent is a lighter and fresher version of the famous original Flowerbomb, designed for the summer season. The scent is made with the intent to improve your mood and to bring positive vibes. The explosion of vivid notes this time comes in light coral colors and a luminescent pearly bottle.

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper, green tea

Heart: lily of the valley, rose, sugared almond, raspberry, red forest berries

Base: patchouli, cashmere, amber

It is available as 50 ml Eau de Toilette, limited edition.

M. MICALLEF & DURAND PARFUMS:

Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. MicallefCaFleureBon announced the collaboration between the French niche luxury house, M. Micallef, and Denis Durand, “the French couture designer known for his glamorous designs using opulent fabrics and Swarovski crystals.” The perfume is called Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef and one CFB editor described it as “a purring slinky beast of a fragrance and one of the best perfumes Mme Micallef has ever made.” Further details:

Through their close friendship and artistic cooperation, Martine Micallef and Denis Durand created a glamorous and sophisticated perfume; it is the first fragrance under the  M. Durand label.

The flacon is drool worthy and I don’t care if you think bottles don’t matter, but it is stunning … hand sewn delicate Chantilly black lace adorned with a little satin bow and a golden medal with the initials of the two artists.

Head Notes: Ceylon cinnamon, Italy tangerine

Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, orange blossoms, honey and animalis (oud?)

Base Notes: sandalwood, patchouly, amber and white musk.

 50 ml EDP/ Retail price: $190

 April 2013 at Osswald NYC and will be rolled out to American stockists in May

CFB Editor’s Note: I have just learned that animalis is not oud but an accord containing labdanum & castoreum. There is no oud in this fragrance 3/28/2013

ORIFLAME:

In May 2013, Oriflame will release a rose scent called Rose of Dreams. Fragrantica has more details:

Perfumer Alexis Dadier constructed the composition of Rose of Dreams out of queen rose and truffle notes, which decorate the composition. He wanted to place the most beautiful flowers of May rose in the center of attention, as prominent as gems in perfume palette. Rich May rose aromas are surrounded with a trail of black truffles, which are valued highly in perfumery and are called “black diamonds.”

notes: May rose, truffles

JUDITH LIEBER:

Judith Lieber is releasing a new perfume in April called Exotic Coral. The Moodie Report has the details:

Described as an oriental, fruity floral fragrance, Exotic Coral was developed by Firmenich and will be available from April.

Top notes include clementine, key lime, rum, and sea breeze accord, while the heart is composed of jasmine, violet leaves and Tiare flower. Base notes comprise sandalwood, coconut milk and heliotrope. 

Exotic Coral has a suggested retail price of US$140 for the 75ml and US$95 for the 40ml.

JO MALONE:

Jo Malone has a limited edition fragrance coming out in May called Osmanthus Blossom. NST has the details:

Jo Malone will launch Osmanthus Blossom, a new limited edition fragrance, in May.

The notes feature petitgrain, osmanthus and cashmere wood.

Jo Malone Osmanthus Blossom will be available in 30 and 100 ml Cologne.

The Moodie Report adds:

The juice – described as delicately exotic – opens with a note of petitgrain, atop a heart of Osmanthus blossom, which leads to a base of cashmere wood. 

The Osmanthus Blossom Collection is available as a 30ml and 100ml Cologne. It can be worn alone, or is ideal for Fragrance Combining™ with Blackberry & Bay, to add a “tart, verdant depth” or Nectarine Blossom & Honey to amplify the sweetness.

DSH PERFUMES (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz):

Now Smell This reports the release of a new fragrance, Iridum, from the Indie perfume line DSH Perfumes or Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, along with new interpretations of existing fragrances:

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz flaconDawn Spencer Hurwitz flaconDawn Spencer Hurwitz flacon

Indie line Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has launched Iridum, a new fragrance in the Secrets of Egypt collection. New interpretations of three prior fragrances from the original 2010 set, Antiu, Keni and Megaleion, have also been released.

According to the press release quoted, Iridum is nearly all botanical but “some stylistic liberties were taken in the form of new materials to render a gorgeous, woody / incense Orris that is chic, more modern than earthy, and quite universal (unisex).” You can read further details on NST but, in terms of pricing, “Iridum is available in 10 and 30 ml Eau de Toilette ($48/$115) and in 1 dram or 5 ml Parfum; samples are also available.”

DIPTYQUE:

In February, the French niche perfume house of Diptyque released a new spring scent, called L’Eau du Trente-Quatre, a variation on 2011′s 34 Boulevard Saint Germain. Now Smell This has the details from the company (and, now, also a review of the fragrance which you can find linked at the site):

For spring 2013, diptyque introduces L’Eau du Trente-Quatre. The sophisticated and versatile new scent is a reminder of the company’s very first fragrance: l’Eau. a lively interpretation of the original 34 boulevard saint germain, the new fragrance captures the essence of the original boutique, during the time when the weather changes and the greenest notes take over from the warmer and more sensual notes of 34 boulevard saint germain. “Men and women of all ages will be able to associate themselves with this new scent. This time, the aromatic notes, rosemary, clove and blackcurrant play a muted tune.

Diptyque L'Eau du Trente-QuatreThanks to the citrus fruits, L’Eau du Trente-Quatre is comfortable and timeless,” states [perfumer] Olivier Pescheux. The top notes include a flight of bitter orange, verbena, lemon, grapefruit, and lavender, spiced up with a dash of nutmeg, juniper berries and cinnamon tree leaves. a green note green note of birch tree leaf, from Philosykos adds a lively freshness to the fragrance. The heart is structured around Egyptian geranium, voluptuous tuberose on a base of Virginian cedarwood, patchouli, a splash of incense and Spanish cist [sic]. Lastly, bright musks balance the fragrance with just the right amount of mellowness and sensuality.

Diptyque L’Eau du Trente-Quatre is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

DIOR:

Christian Dior Addict Eau Délice Dior is releasing a summer flanker to its popular Addict line of fragrances. This one will be called Addict Eau Délice. Now Smell This has what few details are currently available:

The new fragrance for women is the latest flanker to 2002′s Addict, and follows last year’s Addict Eau Sensuelle and Addict Eau Fraiche.

The notes include cranberry, jasmine, ylang ylang and white musk.

Christian Dior Addict Eau Délice will be available in 20, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

CAROLINA HERRERA:

Now Smell This reports a new flanker from Carolina Herrera will be coming out, though no date is given as of yet. The perfume is called CH Eau de Parfum Sublime and is

Carolina Herrera CH Eau de Parfum Sublime

a new flanker to 2007′s Carolina Herrera CH. CH Eau de Parfum Sublime was reportedly inspired by the vintage fragrances of the 1920s.

Note for the floral chypre include bergamot, passion fruit, rose, orchid, moss, patchouli, leather and amber.

Carolina Herrera CH Eau de Parfum Sublime will be available in 80 ml.

OLFACTIVE STUDIO:

Out on the market is a new fragrance from the French niche house, Olfactive Studio, called Flash Back. The company is also making their existing line of fragrances available in new mini sizes in a boxed set. Now Smell This has the details on Flash Back:

The new fragrance was inspired by a photograph by Laurent Segretier.  

A memory in motion and in action: that is also the magic and the raison d’être of Flash Back.

A tangy and vibrant fragrance, Flash Back is an olfactory reminiscence: tangy and slightly green rhubarb mixed with hesperides revives an enveloping childhood smell: that of rhubarb tart. A base note of vetiver and cedar give it woody sensuality.

Flash Back was developed by perfumer Olivier Cresp; additional notes include grapefruit, orange, pink pepper, apple, amber and musk.

Flash Back is a unisex fragrance that will be available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

Fragrantica has a brief review of Flash Back (which you can read here if you’re interested), but they also provide information on the new coffret offered for all of Olfactive Studio’s existing line of fragrances (Autoportrait, Chambre Noir, Flash Back (the latest fragrance from 2013), Lumiere Blanche and Still Life):

This collection combined the creator’s inspirations (Celine Verleure), art photography and the art and sensibility of various perfumers Celine collaborates with on developing each composition. […]

In Milan, Celine Verleure has her premier of a set of five fragrances (the entire collection) available in 5 ml flacons. For all fans of the collection, as well as for those who wish to test it, the new set is truly an excellent idea!

FRANCK BOCLET:

Lastly, there is a new perfume house founded by French fashion designer, Franck Boclet, who has worked for everyone from Francesco Smalto to Ungaro. According to Fragrantica, in 2011, he “decided to create a signature men’s fashion collection. It combines classics with rock rebellion and dresses this contrast with elements of Gothicism and laid-back casual-style.” This year, in 2013, he is launching four new fragrances — Patchouli, Oud, Leather and Incense — to go along with his clothing line. There is a long article on Fragrantica on the perfumes, but here are some highlights from the press release and perfume notes:

A man needs a scent matching his mood and appearance. There are always four color codes, four seasons and that’s why I offer four scents. I admire strong scents, which I use to commemorate important life events.

At first I’ve chosen Patchouli, the note I adore for so long, as the heart note for one of the scents.  Then I thought about Oud—this unusual, strong, harsh and addictive note. Incense became the third; this is a more delicate aroma that displays discreetly its temper. And finally, the fourth scent is Leather because I like using leather for my wear and accessories collections. In order to develop and underline the beauty of each main accord we have precisely worked every scent with Fleuressence’s perfumer Melanie Leroux from Grass.

LEATHER:

Top notes:
Saffron, cumin, lemon;

Heart notes:
Rose, jasmine;

Base notes:
Leather, amber.

PATCHOULI: 

Top notes:
Patchouli, cedar, sandalwood

Heart notes:
Amber, benzoin, tonka beans

Base notes:
Vanilla, white musk

OUD: 

Top notes:
Ginger, cumin, clove;

Heart notes:
Oud

Base notes:
Cedar, patchouli.

INCENSE: 

Top notes:
Cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper, pink Peruvian pepper,

Heart notes:
Benzoin

Base notes:
Guaiacum, sandalwood, ebony.

If you’re interested, you can read the mini-reviews and assessments for each fragrance at the Fragrantica link above (which also has a slide show of some of Boclet’s fashion). The perfumes will be distributed by Fragrance & Emotion but they are not listed on the site yet, nor do I have any pricing details at this time. However, I’ve read they will soon be available in high-end department stores and niche perfume retailers, as well as on-line.

New Perfume Releases: Volume 4 – February 15, 2013

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Below is another compilation of the latest perfumes that are either already out on the market or that will be soon. As always, I will try to cover both men and women’s fragrances, niche and mass-market. So, yes, it will be long (very long!), but feel free to just scroll through to whatever interests you. (Plus, there are some pretty pictures!) All posts are taken via Now Smell This (“NST”), Fragrantica or some other cited source. Most of the sites have some discussion of the fragrance in question so, if you’re interested in further details, be sure to check out the original listing.

Today’s entry will cover everything from: a new Tom Ford (oud) fragrance that pays tribute to the Middle East; two new Guerlain perfumes for Spring; Estée Lauder‘s surrender to the insane, never-ending Oud mania; niche perfumes from Frederic Malle and By Kilian; sugar and spice from Jo Malone; new releases from Caron and Robert Piguet; and more. We will end with a foray into the celebrity world with two perfumes from Maroon 5‘s singer, Adam Levine. You may be surprised to learn that they’ve gotten good reviews and that he worked with a serious perfumer to make a very affordable duo. (But as a warning, the very last photo shows a lot of skin, so it may not be safe for work and you may want to stop scrolling right before the end.) If you’re a fan and in New York, you might be interested to know that he’s going to be launching the perfumes in person today, February 15th, at Macy’s. Details will be at the very end (but before the NSFW photo).

TOM FORD:

Tom Ford has a new perfume called Sahara Noir which will be available only in the Middle East at first, in March, before making its way to the rest of the world sometime in May. This will not be part of the Private Blend line. The Moodie Report has the most comprehensive information that I’ve found on the scent which, I have to say, sounds marvelous:

“Sahara Noir is rich and exotic; it wraps the balsamic, incense-touched notes of frankincense in gold and honey-coloured light,” noted Ford. “Middle Eastern culture has an extraordinary appreciation for the luxurious, emotional and memorable qualities of fragrance; perfume is worn there in a way that feels very familiar to me. Sahara Noir is my interpretation of this heritage. It is a deep and substantial perfume that caresses the senses.”

Frankincense is the key ingredient within Tom Ford’s new Sahara Noir fragrance

The oriental woody juice is crafted around a heart of frankincense. This key ingredient is complemented by top notes of cistus essence Orpur® (Orpur denotes a natural ingredient of exceptional quality and purity), bitter orange, Jordanian calamus – an oasis sweet grass – and Levantine cypress, famed for growing in the gardens of the 1001 Arabian Nights.

The heart blends frankincense essence Orpur® , cinnamon, cool papyrus extract, Egyptian jasmine templar and rose absolute from Morocco. A beeswax extraction from Burma lends body and a supple, honeyed-animalic richness.

The warm dry down is laced with amber. It is formed by a special blend of labdanum – labdanum absolute and a rich natural fraction of labdanum known as ambreinol – combined with benzoin, vanilla, cedar, frankincense resin, agarwood and balsam.

Sahara Noir is presented in a gold-coloured version of the Tom Ford signature fragrance bottle, made of metallised glass and finished with a golden name plaque. The flacon is packaged in a gold, fluted outer carton.

The perfume will come in a 50 ml size. There is no word yet on its price. I have to say, I’m dying to smell this and can’t wait for May!

CARON:

Caron has launched two new fragrances, one of which is a flanker to its famous 1927 carnation scent, Bellodgia! There isn’t much information out on them, but NST did have this to say:

Caron My Ylang and Piu Bellodgia

Caron has launched two new fragrances for women: My Ylang and Più Bellodgia. Both were developed by house perfumer Richard Fraysse.

My Ylang ~ a ‘radiant’ powdery fruity floral with cassis, mandarin, jasmine, ylang ylang, muguet and green vanilla.

Più Bellodgia ~ a ‘romantic’ fresh floral flanker to 1927′s Bellodgia. The notes include carnation, rose, jasmine, cinnamon, clove, cedarwood, sandalwood and musk.

Caron My Ylang and Più Bellodgia are available in 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

(via shop.essenza-nobile.de, prime-beaute)

GUERLAIN:

Guerlain will add to its Aqua Allegoria collection with Nerolia Bianca. The fragrance comes out in late March 2013. Fragrantica reports:

With this creation Thierry Wasser tried to reconstruct Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca Guerlain for women and menevery fraction of a bitter orange tree; from its flowers, fruits and twigs to leaves. The scent is very fresh and citrusy. It contains accords of orange, bitter orange, orange blossom, neroli, twigs and leaves of orange and petitgrain.

It is available as 75 ml Eau de Toilette.

In addition, Guerlain also will have a limited-edition travel exclusive perfume to the line which will be available only at international duty-free shops. The Perfume Shrine has more details:

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Rosa Eau de Toilette Spray (limited Edition) (Travel Retail Exclusive) (not before 01.03.2013)The travel exclusive for 2013 is Flora Rosa by Guerlain and is a limited edition (just like Bouquet No.2 etc were before it). A fresh and lively interpretation on the rose blossom, Jean Paul Guerlain’s favorite flower, it is boosted by other floral anchoring notes to give it duration and depth, Flora Rosa aims to fill the void left by the previous, discontinued Aqua Allegorias Rosa Magnifica and Rosa Bianca from 2011.

The new Guerlain Flora Rosa will be available from 1st March 2013 in eau de toilette 75ml at the duty-free internationally, retailing for 47.50€.

The German duty-free site, Heinemann, shows it will be available for online purchase for travelers through any German airport and at the cost of €46.

PRADA:

Iris lovers may want to celebrate. In March 2013, Prada will launch a new, limited
edition flanker to its iris perfume, Infusion d’Iris. This one will bear the extremely long name of Prada Infusion d’Iris L’Eau d’Iris. Fragrantica has more details:

Extremely elegant and sophisticated fragrance Infusion d’Iris by Prada was launched in 2007. Its Eau de Toilette version was introduced in 2010, while in 2012 the collection expanded with the Eau de Parfum Absolue edition. Prada launches Infusion d’Iris L’Eau d’Iris in March 2013, inspired by spring flowers and the fusing of iris and laurel in the gardens of Tuscany. The fragrance is a limited edition.
Daniela Andrier created this composition as a fresh and delicate interpretation of iris scent. It opens with green accords of Moroccan mint and Tunisian neroli. Pink laurel bay, lily of the valley, rose, iris and orange blossom are placed in the heart. The velvety base includes accords of white musk, woods and vanilla.

Top notes: mint, neroli. Heart: laurel, iris, rose, lily of the valley, orange blossom. Base: white musk, woody notes, vanilla.

The perfume will be available as a 100 ml/3.4 oz Eau de Toilette.

FREDERIC MALLE:

Frederic Malle is taking a break from collaborating with famous perfumers and, instead, launching a collection with famous fashion designers. His first effort will be with designer, Dries van Noten, and the perfume will be released today, February 15, 2013. The Perfume Shrine has the full details but here are the highlights:

Not only is the collaboration with a fashion designer news, it’s also an innovation on the formula front, as the new Malle perfume is touted to be inclusive of a new, natural Indian sandalwood from a sustainable source. Indian sandalwood, for those who didn’t know, had essentially been eradicated from perfumery in the last 20 years or so, due to concerns and regulations on the sustainability of the Mysore sandalwood. The news therefore is a leap of hope for the industry in general and sure to create a real peak of interest in the heart of every perfume fan out there. The new fragrance is an oriental woody, smooth and polished like the designs of Van Noten.
The composition has been undertaken by rising perfumer Bruno Jovanovich of International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) The fragrance notes for the upcoming Dries van Noten par Frédéric Malle are citron, sandalwood, guaiac wood, saffron, Spanish jasmine, tonka beans, Cashmeran/blonde woods, vanilla and musk.
As you can see the presentation of the bottle is also different than the rest of the Malle portfolio, as this is a separate line.

You can read more about the perfume, as well as the long discussion about it, on the Perfume Shrine link above.

BY KILIAN:

The scion of the Hennessey part of the LVMH luxury conglomerate, Kilian Hennessey, will launch a new perfume in April for his Asian Tales Collection.  NST has more details:

By Kilian Flower of Immortality

Niche line By Kilian will launch Flower of Immortality in April. The fragrance is the third in the Asian tales collection that debuted in 2012 with Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy. Flower of Immortality celebrates peach blossom, a symbol of immortality in Asian folklore.

Flower of Immortality is a fruity floral, and was developed by perfumer Calice Becker. Notes include white peach, carrot, iris, blackcurrant buds, rose, tonka bean and vanilla.

By Kilian Flower of Immortality will be available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum or in a 30 ml travel size, both refillable.

ETRO:

The Italian fashion house, Etro, is launching a new perfume in March 2013 called Rajasthan. Fragrantica has details as well as a photo of the colourful bottle:

Beautiful colors and bright, explosive shades are intertwined in the poetic composition of Rajasthan, which vividly depicts the splendor and glow of Maharadza’s palace. 

Rajasthan perfume opens with luminous accords of lemon combined with elegant Damascus rose and its powerful sweetness. A gentle note in top notes is provided by yellow mimosa. The heart accentuates floral notes of acacia spiced with pink pepper and warmed with a blend of amber, labdanum and white musk enriching the base.

RAJASTHAN

damascus rose, mimosa, lemon
acacia, pink pepper
amber, labdanum, white musk

Etro Rajasthan arrives in a flacon embellished with cashmere motifs, playing with intense colors of bright pink and orange with tiny details in turquoise and purple, in the amount of 100 ml Eau de Parfum. The flacon design and notes of the composition reflect perfectly the beauty of India and offer a sort of passionate journey to the Orient.

I love that bottle! And I adore the perfume section of Etro’s website. Such colours, such vibrancy!

ROGER & GALLET:

The old 19th-Century beauty and fragrance house has teamed up with the famous perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian, to create a new fig scent that will be released in March 2013. Fragrantica quotes from the press release as follows:

Roger & Gallet are launching a new fragrance in March 2013, a creation of famous perfumer Francis Kurkdjian! The central theme of the perfume is fig blossom (Fleur de Figuier). Its scent is taking us to the Mediterranean and the French Riviera, relaxing and resting our senses. The inspiration behind the fragrance lies in gardens full of figs, placed between Cannes and Saint-Raphael at Massif de l’Esterel—the coastal mountainous region of Southern France. Scents of fig leaves, branches, milk and sweet fruits are mixed with mountain air and sea aromas to create an irresistible composition created by nature.

Initial notes of the fragrance introduce a refreshing blend of mandarin, mixing their luminous and juicy zest with sparkling grapefruit in an explosion of energy. The citrusy union is spiced delicately with caraway, reminding us of sweet sun-bathed fig fruit. The heart adds a blend of fig leaves with juicy fig fruit, resting on a base of sensual musk and fig milk, leaving a warm and cuddly trail on the skin.

FLEUR DE FIGUIER
mandarin, grapefruit, caraway
fig leaf, fig fruit, fig milk
musk, cedar

ROGER & GALLET FLEUR DE FIGUIER is available as 30 and 100 ml Eau Fraiche accompanied with 200 ml body care lotion, 200 ml shower cream and perfumed soap (separately and in a set).  The brand’s perfumes usually range between $30-$65 and are available on Roger & Gallet website as well as at other retailers.

TOCCA:

Tocca has released a new perfume inspired by the 1920s. NST has details from the press release:

Tocca Liliana fragrance

Tocca has launched Liliana, a new fragrance for women:

A lush, green, rolling lawn is the setting for a roaring 20s party in full swing. Liliana conjures a reveler in the bloom of youth dancing the Charleston amidst flowing bottles of champagne and a spirited jazz band.

The lowering sun casts a golden sparkle as an intoxicating bouquet of muguet, gardenia and peony wafts from the gardens, filling the night with joie de vivre.

Additional notes include bergamot, neroli, watery peach, sandalwood, musk, benzoin and patchouli.

Tocca Liliana is $68 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum or $20 for a 10 ml rollerball.

The perfume is already out and available at Sephora.

ESTEE LAUDER:

Yes, even Estée Lauder has given in to the Oud craze. No, there is absolutely no end in sight to the madness. The Moodie Report has details on the latest perfume, Amber Mystique, which will be an amber oud fragrance:

Estée Lauder is building on the success of its Wood Mystique fragrance (the brand’s first unisex scent that specifically targeted the Middle Eastern consumer) with the introduction of Amber Mystique. It will be on-counter in Middle Eastern travel retail doors from March, before rolling out to selected travel retail locations across the UK and Europe from June.
Described as “full-bodied, intricate and darkly ornate”, the oriental amber juice was created for the fragrance connoisseur who uses scent to convey status, personal signature and good taste, according to the brand. […]

 

The Amber Mystique juice features notes of amber, Taif Rose NP®, Oud Wood, blackcurrant, raspberry, pink pepper, ylang-ylang, Bulgarian Rose, jasmine, incense, patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum, leather and musk.
The fragrance is presented in a reworked version of the original Wood Mystique flacon, in amber tones to complement the name, with the EL cartouche embossed on the front.

Estee Lauder Amber Mystique will be introduced first in the Middle East in March and then available elsewhere in June. Despite the article not saying so, I assume it will be available in the US and will not be a purely European exclusive. It will come in a 100 ml Eau de Parfum version.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD:

Vivienne Westwood will have a new perfume out in April. NST reports:

Vivienne Westwood Flirty Alice perfume

In April, Vivienne Westwood will launch Flirty Alice, the third in the series that includes 2010′s Naughty Alice and 2011′s Cheeky Alice.

Flirty Alice is a floral fragrance, and features notes of bergamot, green tea, rose, vanilla and blond woods.

Vivienne Westwood Flirty Alice will be available in 75 ml Eau de Toilette.

KENZO:

Fans of Kenzo‘s Amour line of fragrances may be happy to hear that there is a new flanker out on the market. NST reports the following:

Kenzo Amour My Love

Kenzo has launched Amour My Love, a new limited edition flanker to 2006′s Kenzo Amour. Amour My Love follows last year’s Amour I Love U.

Kenzo Amour my love is a new declaration of love. A fragrance where the freshness of pink grapefruit meets the sensuality of peony and rose. A generous trail, to celebrate romance. Fall in love again with Kenzo amour.

The fruity floral fragrance for women features notes of grapefruit, passion fruit, gooseberry, peony, rose, cherry blossom, lilac, cedar and white musk.

Kenzo Amour My Love is available in 50 ml Eau de Toilette.

FRAGONARD:

The famous old, Grasse perfume house, Fragonard, is very close to my heart. And they have just come out with new fragrances. NST has the details:

Fragonard Belle de Nuit Intense

French perfume house Fragonard has launched Belle de Nuit Intense, a followup to their Belle de Nuit fragrance for women. Also new from the brand: Muguet, and Confidentiel for men.

Belle de Nuit Intense ~ “The night is yours… The lady in blue’s perfume is both opulent diabolically sensual [sic]. A ylang ylang, tuberose, gardenia and pear top note moves on to a middle note of jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley, rounded off with a back note of sandalwood and musk for an unforgettable floral and fruity fragrance. In 200 ml Eau de Parfum, €45.

Fragonard Muguet

Muguet ~ “A lucky eau de toilette that celebrates a top note of neroli, pink peppercorn. Borne by a middle note of jasmine, freesia and lily-of-the-valley, on a spicy back note of amber, cedar and musk.” In 50 ml Eau de Toilette, €15, and in matching bath, body & home fragrance products.

Fragonard Confidentiel fragrance for men

Confidentiel ~ “A perfume of secrets… This new eau de toilette for men will not, however, go unnoticed! Pepper and pink peppercorn liven up the grapefruit for a fresh and spicy note. The middle note puts an accent on magnolia and incense on a cedar wood, patchouli and sandalwood back note.” In 100 and 200 ml refillable Eau de Toilette, or 600 ml refill; matching grooming products also sold.

(via fragonard)

CARVEN:

Famed perfumer Francis Kurkdjian has created a new perfume for the classic house, Carven, which is also re-launching its famous Ma Griffe. NST has information on the new releases:

Carven Le Parfum

Carven will launch Carven Le Parfum, a new fragrance for women, and will relaunch the brand’s classic 1946 perfume Ma Griffe.

Le Parfum was developed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian; notes for the floral scent include hyacinth, sweet pea, ylang ylang, jasmine, osmanthus, apricot and sandalwood.

In the UK, Carven Le Parfum will be introduced at Harrods in early May. There is no information on when it will be released in the US.

ROBERT PIGUET:

Robert Piguet, makers of the famous Fracas and Bandit, has just released a new perfume called Bois Bleu which was created by Givaudaun perfumer Aurelien Guichard. It is not currently available in the US but will be soon. CaFleureBon has further details:

Robert Piguet Bois Bleu“The intensity of precious woods, the aromatic accents of fresh herbs and the delicate touch of invigorating citrus tell the story of Bois Bleu de Robert Piguet. This bold and dynamic woody elixir combines iconic Piguet sophistication with modern refinement, offering an opulent scent for those not afraid to make a style statement. Discover the warmth of rich woods delicately accented with nuances of lavender. The invigorating composition of woody notes is perfectly balanced by crisp citrus and warm herbs. Fresh bergamot lends a citrusy touch in the top note that is perfectly nuanced by an earthy violet and spiced nutmeg heart. To complete the opulent presentation, mysterious sandalwood mingles with sharp cedar and exotic vetiver to form a warm and refined drydown.”

Top notes: bergamot and citrus
Heart notes: nutmeg and violet
Base notes: sandalwood, cedar and vetiver

Bois Bleu is an eau de parfum and comes in a 100ml bottle for $150. It is currently out and available in the UK at Harrods where it costs £130.

JO MALONE:

In March, Jo Malone will release 5 new limited-edition fragrances inspired by British pudding and tea time treats. NST has the details:

Jo Malone Sugar & Spice visual

Jo Malone will follow 2011′s Tea Fragrance Blends collection with Sugar & Spice, a new limited edition quintet inspired by “quintessential British pudding” flavors. Look for them in March.

The Sugar & Spice fragrances were developed by perfumer Christine Nagel. The fragrances are Lemon Tart, Redcurrant & Cream, Elderflower & Gooseberry, Ginger Biscuit and Bitter Orange & Chocolate. (I will update with individual notes when I can.)

The Jo Malone Sugar & Spice collection will be available in 30 ml Cologne, £38 each or £190 for the set.

[S]ome brief fragrance notes ~

Lemon Tart ~ citrus fruits, verbena, meringue and lemon thyme.

Redcurrant & Cream ~ redcurrants, strawberries, raspberries and creamy musk.

Elderflower & Gooseberry ~ gooseberries, lychee and elderflower.

Ginger Biscuit ~ ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla.

Bitter Orange & Chocolate ~ orange, cocoa, coconut and coumarin.

The perfumes are already mentioned on the Jo Malone website but there is no product or pricing information. I assume those will be provided and updated after March 1, 2013.

ADAM LEVINE:

I saved the best for last, if only because of one of the photos. Adam Levine has collaborated with a well-known perfume “nose” to make Adam Levine for Women and Adam Levine for Men. To my surprise, they have received a great review. (Yes, it apparently shocked the reviewer at CaFleureBon himself.) Mr. Levine does not seem to be like the majority of celebrities out there who leave the perfume details to the marketing team and focus groups. Instead, he seems to have played a very active part in things. And he also recruited someone who CaFleureBon called one of the top perfume noses around: Yann Vasnier from Givaudan. “M. Vasnier has slowly been letting a niche aesthetic find its way into his mainstream releases. He has been the most persistent in attempting this and in these two fragrances I think we’ve come to the place where we’re about to find out if the great majority of fragrance shoppers are ready to take a walk on the niche side.” All of this for perfumes that cost $35 an ounce!

As for the perfumes themselves, Fragrantica has a full report:

In February 2013, Maroon 5 frontman Adam Levine is launching fragrances for men and women, with a wish to impress the world of today, according to his words. Fragrances are launched under license by ID Perfumes and Adam collaborated with perfumers of the house of Givaudan on the realization of his idea. “The fragrances are as innovative as they are classic. The bottles take the form of a microphone, with a luxurious, weighted cap in silver mesh. The black stem resembles the wire of a microphone, simple and sleek.”

ADAM LEVINE for WOMEN: The fragrance for women has been announced as intoxicating, sexy, unleashed… A fragrance that attracts and keeps the attention. Top notes will allure you with a blend of saffron, citruses, marigold and spices. The heart encompasses gentle petals of Indian jasmine, Australian sandalwood and rose petals, while the base is composed of benzoin tears and seductive, creamy vanilla. The perfume is available as 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

saffron, citruses, marigold, spices
Indian jasmine, Australian sandalwood, rose petals
benzoin tears, vanilla

ADAM LEVINE for MEN: The edition for men leaves an unforgettable trail which opens with juicy mandarin, grapefruit and lemongrass. Aromatic support is provided by sage and violet leaf. The heart adds passion fruit, guava leaf and freshly cut ginger, on a base of cedar, sandalwood and amber. The perfume can be obtained as 30, 50 and 100ml Eau de Toilette.

mandarin, graperfuit, lemongrass, sage, violet leaf
passion fruit, guava leaf, ginger
cedar, sandalwood, amber

The fragrances debuted in Los Angeles on January 31, 2013 at Macy’s. In New York, they will be available also at Macy’s Herald Square on February 15th. You can find details at this link for the February 15th appearance. The perfumes cost $65 for a large 3.4 oz/100 ml size bottle and are available right now on the Macy’s website with a special “Bonus Offer.” You can read more at http://adamlevine-fragrances.com/.

But, wait, that’s not all. Apparently, Adam Levine is determined to become the Martha Stewart of celebrity perfumers because there are reports that he will be releasing two more fragrances (and as soon as the next two months)! From Glamazon Diaries, the details are as follows:

Maroon 5 front man and The Voice judge Adam Levine is said to be working on a new fragrance project with ID Perfumes called 222 by Adam Levine. The men’s and women’s scents, which will launch in May 2013, will be sold in department and specialty stores in the US as well as expansion to Canada, Mexico, South America, the U.K., Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Far East.

The project is currently in progress with no announcement of the notes that will be included for each perfume.  The eau de parfum will be available in 1 oz., 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz. flacons, retailing for $36, $45 and $65, respectively.

Well, I must say, I think he has a beautiful body. The disembodied hands, however….

Perfume Review: Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin

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In time for Valentine’s Day, Serge Lutens is releasing the first of two new fragrances for 2013. It is La Fille de Berlin (“The Girl from Berlin”), a unisex rose perfume that tries to pay homage to a woman’s strength, resilience and beauty in the face of destruction.

Lutens is a very intellectual perfumer who seeks to render concrete the most abstract of theories and images. That is never more evident than in his press materials for La Fille de Berlin — such as his explanatory video which you can watch below and which has been translated in full on YouTube.

A shorter, barely less oblique explanation of the scent is available in the press release posted on Fragrantica where Mr. Lutens describes the perfume as follows:

A flower grown under our ruins, cut off from the world, appears before your eyes to all of us to open our eyes. I took courage in both hands in her flowing Rheingold hair. On the lips, I tasted blood. My girl from Berlin showed combative, more beautiful than ever–and so I broke my contempt and yet my shame, hiding under the guise of my pride. Through the power of criticism, of love and hate, God and the devil, death and life, I drew a furrow in which she disappeared. And while the maelstrom together beats on me, I pay homage to her beauty enraged.

A scene from "A Woman in Berlin" ("Anonyma: Eine Frau in Berlin".) REUTERS/Constantin Film/Handout Source: Reuters article 2008

A scene from “A Woman in Berlin” (“Anonyma: Eine Frau in Berlin”.) REUTERS/Constantin Film/Handout. Source: Reuters article 2008

If all this esoterica leaves you sighing, you’re not alone. Long story short, La Fille de Berlin is meant to pay homage to the strength of German women who survived the Soviet occupation after the war — though there seems to be something much darker, more ominous, and much more violent being referenced in both his video comments and in the press release references above to shame and blood. If you read the complete YouTube quote from Mr. Lutens, you will get a full sense of the incredible bleakness, anger, betrayal and misery which seems to be at the start of his dark, almost existentialist mythology for La Fille de Berlin. (One almost wonders if he’s talking about rape, in addition to some sort of actual or symbolic “murder.” No matter how much resilience may be his ultimate theme, the whole thing is very unsettling.)

Since none of these things are a happy way to sell perfume (especially on Valentine’s Day), Mr. Lutens tries to be slightly more positive in his quotes to The New York Times where he states, “Beauty is the moment in which you rise up […] It is the moment when you pick up your head, stride through your own ruins and climb up the mountain.” Okay, it’s still not particularly happy and cheerful, what with “your own ruins” — but, at least he tried.

La Fille de BerlinThere are no perfume notes for La Fille de Berlin. Lutens is a perfume house which often omits a large part of the ingredients in its perfume description but, here, it does so completely. The rumour mill says that La Fille is a rose and pepper scent, while Luckyscent feels some of the notes are “Rose, violet, pink and black pepper, musk” — but Lutens himself has stayed silent. On his website, the fragrance is only described with still further (and, by now, rather exasperating) lyricism:

She’s a rose with thorns, don’t mess with her. She’s a girl who goes to extremes.
When she can, she soothes; and when she wants … !
Her fragrance lifts you higher, she rocks and shocks. 

That’s all well and good, but I’m afraid I find nothing shocking or extreme about La Fille de Berlin. It’s a lovely rose scent which starts with peony-like roses before taking a fruity (and almost fruity-patchouli) turn, then becoming rather austere and, by the end, quite nondescript. I found it pretty average as a whole, and far preferred Lutens‘ Sa Majesté La Rose for a rose scent — and any number of other Lutens fragrances in general. If truth be told, La Fille de Berlin was actually a bit of a disappointment. I’m not alone in feeling that way. One of the handful of reviews already out is from Cosmetopica (who also couldn’t make head nor tails out of Lutens’ lyricism). She, too, found the perfume far less distinctive and exciting than many of Lutens’ other creations.

Peony roses at Warwick Castle, UK. Photo used by permission from CC at "Slightly Out of Sync."

Peony roses at Warwick Castle, UK. Photo used by permission from CC at “Slightly Out of Sync.”

La Fille de Berlin opens on me with a wet, dewy rose note that is faintly similar to the sweetness in a tea rose, but slightly richer and redder. That said, it’s not as rich as a hearty, beefy Bourbon or Damask rose, but something in-between. Perhaps, large peony roses? Soft violet notes flicker and dance at the edges. Sometimes, the scent seems soft and slightly powdered. At other times, heartier and deeper. The violet notes vaguely evoke YSL‘s Paris in its original formulation but Paris is a much warmer, headier, more intense, and spicier take on roses.

As some others have noted, there is a subtle green note which is present. It’s as if Christopher Sheldrake (Lutens’ favorite perfumer and traditional cohort in olfactory adventures) sought to bring in the scent of the green, leafy sepals which protect a rose bud. The green notes are hard to describe. They’re not like those at the start of Sa Majesté La Rose which is a much more lavish, baroque and dramatic scent after its green, slightly soapy start. In La Fille de Berlin, the green elements are fresher and slightly dewy, and underscored by what seems to be geranium leaf.

Source: ElementalLife.org

Source: ElementalLife.org

There is also an unexpectedly woody element, like that of a rose’s own stem, and elements of rich, wet soil. It’s an odd mix — greenness with earthy, loamy soil and the faintly woody aspect of a rose stem — and it makes me wonder if Christopher Sheldrake sought to disassemble every part of a rose before putting them back together again. He’s done that deconstruction trick for Lutens before; it was handled brilliantly with the tuberose flower in Tubereuse Criminelle.

Ten minutes in, La Fille de Berlin begins to take on a fruity aspect. At first, it’s the unexpected scent of cherries. Then, it’s just a general fruity smell under the veneer of sweetness and it strongly resembles some purple patchouli fragrances I smelled last year. Specifically, it calls to mind Marc Jacobs‘ Lola and, to a much lesser extent, Chanel‘s Coco Noir. Both are scents with rose, a fruity patchouli element, notes of pear, pink peppercorn, and geranium, over a base of musk. As the Fragrantica notes demonstrate, Lola, in particular, is a primarily rose and peppercorn perfume with fruity-patchouli overtones. I own Lola and Coco Noir, so I sprayed on a little bit of each on my legs to see if I was just imagining things.

Purple rose at Warwick Castle, England. Photo provided with permission by CC from "Slightly Out of Sync" blog.

Purple rose at Warwick Castle, England. Photo provided with permission by CC from “Slightly Out of Sync” blog.

I was not imagining things. Though Lola opens with heavy fruit notes, it soon develops into something extremely similar to the jammy, peppercorn rose in La Fille de Berlin. Coco Noir is completely different in its opening, but it too has that jammy, purple, fruity patchouli element in its middle stages. (I reviewed it here, if you’re interested.) It should be noted that Christopher Sheldrake (who undoubtedly created La Fille de Berlin) was also responsible for Coco Noir, along with Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Jacques Polge. But it is really to Lola that La Fille de Berlin seems most similar at the start. The main differences is that the latter is slightly less fruity, much more subtle and fresh, and of infinitely better quality. There is nary a screeching synthetic in sight — which is much more than I can say for Mr. Jacobs’ creation.

Two hours in, La Fille de Berlin changes. The sillage drops even further, and the perfume takes on a cold, austere, almost metallic bent. It loses what warmth it had and becomes a linear progression that is predominantly rose with white musk and light sandalwood. It is far from exciting. Victoria from Bois de Jasmin had a far sexier time with the scent, experiencing amber, musk and faintly “naughty” bits:

A couple of hours later, my skin smells of amber and musk. La Fille de Berlin has an intriguing animalic note that would be untoward and raunchy if the rest of the composition were not so refined and polished. The reference here seems to be Serge Lutens’s own Muscs Koublaï Khan […] a rose wrapped into so much musk and civet that it becomes something else altogether. La Fille de Berlin, on the other hand, is much less musk and more rose, and it’s well-behaved enough to be worn to the office without raising anyone’s alarm. But when you press your wrist to your nose, you notice the naughty and smoldering bits. The impressive tenacity will ensure that you will be aware of La Fille de Berlin for the entire day.

I only wish I had her experience; it sounds infinitely more interesting! Having just tested extreme animalic musk and naughtiness in Parfum d’Empire’s Musc Tonkin, I’d be quite alert to the presence of any skanky notes or civet in La Fille de Berlin, no matter how minute and refined. But, alas, I simply don’t smell it here. No amber, either. There is some earthiness which was there from the start, though faint, but I attribute it to the undertones of what seemed more like patchouli than animalic elements. And, even so, on a scale of 1 to 10 (with 10 being extreme earthiness), I’d place the note at a 3.5 at the start and at a mere 1 towards the end. Instead, something else is much more evident. I swear, even in the dry-down, there is a fruity note! It is much, much more subtle than it was at the start, but it is still there. I find it excessively sweet, and I blame it on the pepper which has to be closer to the fruitier type of pink peppercorn berries than to anything black and biting.

As a whole, my experience with the final hours was much closer, again, to that of Cosmetopica. She owns and loves Muscs Koublai Khan, so she would have noticed any animalic similarities had she encountered them. Instead, she detected milky sandalwood in the dry-down. I agree; I found a definite creamy, soft, milky aspect to things, though to my nose it didn’t smell like strong or, even, genuine sandalwood. More like an ersatz cousin, if you will. For the most part, it was mild and quite overwhelmed by the white musk and by that endless fruity element.

La Fille de Berlin had average sillage and very good longevity. The perfume projected for the first twenty minutes before settling in to become much more discreet. It became close to the skin about three hours in, though it was still strongly noticeable if you brought your wrist to your nose. The overall duration of the scent was a little under nine hours on me. On Cosmetopica, it was eight; on Victoria from Bois de Jasmin, “the whole day.”

All in all, La Fille de Berlin is well-behaved, refined, unisex perfume that is perfectly pleasant — with all the implications that accompany that last adjective. As Cosmetopica’s review noted, one buys niche perfumes with their higher price tag for something that is slightly more distinctive and interesting. Serge Lutens has perfumes that run the gamut from being intellectually brilliant masterpieces that are not versatile scents for everyday use, to things that are simply lovely and constantly wearable, to scents that are occasionally just perfectly “nice.”

This is the latter. Though the bright pink colour of the liquid is absolutely gorgeous and though I wanted to love it, at the end of the day, I found La Fille de Berlin to be quite boring. And, for reasons I can’t quite pinpoint, it wasn’t a particularly happy scent in my mind either, unlike Sa Majesté La Rose. (That conclusion doesn’t even consider Mr. Lutens’ incredibly dark and depressing backstory for the perfume which, ideally, I shall forget about as soon as possible.) However, as with every review, perfume is a wholly subjective thing — so what may not be my cup of tea may be a ravishingly sophisticated, discreet rose scent for others. As always, it’s best to try it and see for yourself.

DETAILS:
Cost & Availability: La Fille de Berlin eau de parfum is available right now on the Serge Lutens website where it costs $120 for a 50 ml/1.7 oz bottle. In other currency units, I’ve read that it will cost €78. There does not seem to be a bell-jar for the scent on the website. It is also available right now for $120 on Luckyscent — which ships internationally. Luckyscent is not showing any samples for sale at this time. I will update this post when the perfume becomes available at other retailers, such as Barney’s or Harrods — both of which traditionally carry a handful of Lutens perfumes. La Fille de Berlin has just debuted, but is supposed to be fully launched in March 2013, so I suspect it may be a few weeks before it is available outside of the company’s website or in its Palais Royal headquarters in Paris. The perfume is part of Lutens’ “export” line of fragrances, so it definitely will be offered at other selected retail outlets. For other countries, once mid-March comes around, I suggest using the Lutens Store Indicator guide on its website to help you find a location that sells Fille de Berlin near you. Samples should also be available soon on decant sites, and I will update this post once I see them listed on places like Surrender to Chance.

New Perfume Releases: Volume 3 – January 26th, 2013

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I’ve decided to make “New Perfume Releases” a regular feature of the blog. As always, I will try to cover both men and women’s fragrances, niche and mass-market. So, yes, it will be long, but feel free to scroll through to whatever interests you. (Plus, there are some pretty pictures!) All posts are taken via Now Smell This (NST) or Fragrantica. Each site has some discussion of the fragrance in question so, if you’re interested in further details, be sure to check out the original listing.

Today’s entry will cover everything from the re-invention of a Laura Ashley classic to a new Guerlain lingerie spray, a new M. Micallef fragrance inspired by vintage cars, and the first entirely new perfume from Kerosene in seven years. There will be a return to the oldies with a special Youth Dew limited-edition issue, the clothing house of H&M‘s first “luxury” perfume (in conjunction with the Byredo perfumer), and even a brief foray into the Kardashian world with a fragrance from Khloe Kardashian Odom. (Mea Culpa. I couldn’t really resist.) With a few exceptions, it doesn’t seem as though there are a huge number of new niche scents that will be released in the next few weeks or month.

SONOMA SCENT STUDIO:

The much-loved Indie line, Sonoma Scent Studio (SSS), is releasing a new line of natural fragrances. Now Smell This provides the following information:

Indie line Sonoma Scent Studio has launched Cocoa Sandalwood, the first in a new range of all natural fragrances. Upcoming natural fragrances include Spiced Citrus Vetiver and Amber Incense. Also new from the brand is Rose Volupté, which replaces Vintage Rose.

Cocoa Sandalwood ~This all-natural perfume is a gourmand for lovers of natural sandalwood. A luscious cocoa absolute melds with New Caledonia sandalwood absolute, spices, and a lactonic natural peach note. Vanilla and a subtle hint of coffee make the chocolate richer, while woodsy cedar and musky ambrette seed reinforce and complement the sandalwood. For women and men. Additional notes include ginger, cinnamon, clove and rose.

Rose Volupté ~ Rose Volupté is a luxurious plumy rose with a rich base of woods, amber, spices, and labdanum. A warm and long lasting ambery rose. Additional notes include sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, heliotrope, clove, cinnamon, oakmoss and aldehydes.

Sonoma Scent Studio Cocoa Sandalwood and Rose Volupté are available in 5, 17  and 34 ml. (via sonomascentstudio)

RAMON MONEGAL:

According to Fragrantica, one of the most talked-about niche houses in 2012 was the Spanish perfume brand Ramon Monegal. The brand recently announced an exclusive fragrance for Neiman Marcus called Pure Mariposa. The perfume will be released in February 2013, and Fragrantica has the following information:

Pure Mariposa will offer a floral-nectar accord with a festive tone in a dew-covered green forest, surrounded by a breeze of ozonic air, on a rich bottom accord of amber and musk.

PURE MARIPOSA

Top notes: Orange, Grapefruit Bergamot, Yuzu, Black currant, Plum.
Heart: Oakmoss, Grass accord, Fig, Osmanthus, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Rose wardia, Tuberose.
Base: Sandalwood, Cashmeran, Iris, Anchouli, Peach, Tonka, Amber

Pure Mariposa will be available exclusively at Neiman Marcus stores beginning in February 2013. The fragrance is an Eau De Parfum, available in a 50 ml/1.7 oz size and priced at $200.

H&M:

The Scandanavian clothing brand, H&M, will present its new luxury line called & Other Stories in 2013. Fragrantica states: “The line offers high-quality clothing, fine lingerie, footwear, fashion accessories and a cosmetics line. The first collection of this brand comes out in Spring/Summer 2013. […] As part of this brand, H&M will launch a perfume called Rose Revival, whose creation is signed by Ben Gorham, the man behind niche house Byredo.” There is no information on the notes (besides the obvious rose one) thus far. However, there is a rather cool video if any of you are interested:

GUERLAIN:

Guerlain Eau de LingerieNot a new perfume, but a fabric spray. You see, Guerlain is temporarily going to release a limited-edition lingerie line. (Yes, really. That wasn’t a typo.) And this is the scent that goes with it. NST has the details:

Guerlain will launch Eau de Lingerie, a new scented fabric spray, in February. The spray is being released in conjunction with a limited edition Guerlain lingerie line from Absolutely Pôm.

The powdery floral fragrance will include notes of iris, rose, vanilla, sandalwood, ambrette and white musk.

Guerlain Eau de Lingerie will be available in 125 ml, €65, at Guerlain boutiques.

If you’re interested, NST has a small discussion on what it’s supposed to smell like, as well as links to articles about it in French Marie-Claire and French Vogue. Just click on “details” up above.

PACO RABANNE:

Following on the heels of his successful 1 Million fragrance, Paco Rabanne is launching 1 Million Intense. Fragrantica has the following information:

Masculine fragrance 1 Million from the designer house Paco Rabanne has experienced tremendous popularity since it was launched in 2008. The only previous reissue of this perfume is 1 Million Gold Absolutely, a pure perfume version presented in 2012. In 2013, there is also a new version launched – 1 Million Intense. The new perfume is announced as the embodiment of extravagance. 

The spicy – woody – oriental compositions of this intensified and deeper version begins with fresh and spicy notes of blood mandarin, cardamom, black pepper and saffron. Rose absolute, neroli and cinnamon form the perfume’s heart, situated at the base of white leather, orris root, patchouli and sandalwood.

Top notes: blood mandarin, cardamom, pepper, saffron
Heart: rose absolute, neroli, cinnamon
Base: leather, patchouli, sandalwood, orris root

The fragrance is available as 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette Intense.

LAURA ASHLEY:

Laura Ashley has re-invented and re-launched their original 1981 fragrance, Laura Ashley No. 1. NST has the following information from the press release:

Exclusively designed for Laura Ashley in 1981, to complement the charming floral prints and delicate geometric designs of that era, the original No.1 fragrance has been reinvented for 2012. Laura Ashley No 1 perfume, 2012 version

Today’s modern interpretation, designed by renowned perfumer, Azzi Glasser, uses the finest ingredients to create an evocative fragrance with top notes of cassis, Victorian plum, violet leaves, marshmallow and green water stem. Heart notes of wild bluebell, purple rose, white gardenia and chamomile provide a beautiful floral scent, whilst base notes of sandalwood, patchouli oil and creamy musk, complement the blend perfectly.

Retaining all the charm of a very floral, fragrant and famous history, the perfume captures the heart of Laura Ashley’s style. The floral bottle replicates perfectly the brand’s identity of bold, beautiful stand-out print, which has defined their place in home decor and fashion as innovative experts, blending old and new to keep their charm.

Laura Ashley No. 1 is available in 30 ($52) and 60 ($68) ml Eau de Parfum, and can be found now at the Laura Ashley US website.

There is a lively discussion on the NST site about the “modern interpretation,” so if you’re interested, have fond memories of the ’80s, or liked Laura Ashley, don’t hesitate to check it out.

In The “I Don’t Have Any Words” Category:

I truly don’t know what to say about this next one and its supposed “vortex,” so I’ll just quote verbatim from Fragrantica:

Married couple Khloe Kardashian Odom and Lamar Odom launched their first joint fragrance Unbreakable (now renamed Unbreakable Bond) in 2011. The fragrance has experienced rapid success, and so did its festive limited edition Unbreakable Joy from 2012.  In February the 2013, the couple will delight their fans with a new fragrance called Unbreakable Love.The new creation is described as a lively and sensual fragrance vortex for women and men. Its top notes include delicate exotic neroli and the citrus freshness of bergamot, associated with a floral heart and deep notes of cedar and musk.

Unbreakable Love is available as 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

This may be the time to bring up, once again, how celebrity perfumes are made, and how marketing, branding, use of the cheapest or most synthetic ingredients, and the financial bottom line are the driving forces — not the desire to make great, original perfume. A fellow blogger, Scent Bound, has a really great discussion of those things in an article entitled: “The Making of a Celebrity Fragrance.”

GIVENCHY:

Yet another flanker. This time for the Dahlia Noir line. It will be called Dahlia Noir L’Eau and will be released sometime in Spring 2013. Fragrantica has the details:

Dahlia Noir L’Eau is more vivid, livelier and a fresher scent than the original, but it is still elegant and sensual. With this composition Francois Demachy wants to show the delicate side of the dangerous black dahlia flower. The top sparkles with cool crystal citruses and neroli, which lead to the floral heart of rose petals. The base is made of patchouli, cedar and musk, giving a chypre character to the perfume.

Top notes: citrus, neroli
Heart: rose Base: patchouli, cedar, musk

The fragrance will be available as 50, 95 and 125 ml Eau de Toilette.

KEROSENE:

Kerosene Fragrances has a new perfume called Unknown Pleasures. Fragrantica provides the following information:

Kerosene Fragrances Unknown Pleasures is a new fragrance presented in 2013, after seven years. The first fragrance presented by Kerosene Fragrances to the market was R’Oud Elements, and it was followed by seven more editions during 2012.

About the fragrance: “You’re walking down a cold street in Manchester, listening to Joy Division, sipping on a warm cup of London Fog. This fragrance opens up with the smooth sweetness of honey with Earl Grey tea, with a zing of lemon. It dries down to a cozy vanilla, soft tonka bean and waffle cone base, sure to make any gourmand lover smile.” The perfumer of the edition is John Pegg.

Official notes: Earl Grey tea, lemon, honey, bergamot, tonka, caramel, vanilla and waffle cone.

Fragrance Unknown Pleaures has been available in a gold colored flacon 100 ml EDP since 2013.

ESTEE LAUDER:

Estée Lauder’s Youth Dew turns 60! In celebration, the company is releasing a limited-edition anniversary edition in March 2013. You can read all about the history of the famous original in a detailed article on Fragrantica. The site also provides the following information on the special, limited-edition release:

Youth-Dew Limited Edition Estée Lauder for womenThis year, in honor of the jubilee 60th birthday of Youth Dew by Estee Lauder, a limited edition with an unchanged composition has been introduced, in a glass bottle with a ribbon embellished with tiny crystals. The body of the bottle in this case is “tightened with a lovely gold-colored bow that highlights the’waist’ and emphasizes the silhouette.” Small crystals accentuate the festive mood. Youth-Dew Limited Edition 2013 arrives as 67 ml EDP and will be available from March 2013.

Youth-Dew is one of those fragrances that you must try if you really like perfumery. It is one of those that you either love with all your heart or you can never grow fond of it. A fragrance that belongs to history and ancient times, but is also so close and dear to us because it was worn by our grandmothers and mothers. Unique and characteristic. The fragrance that I remember from my early childhood. The fragrance that is respected because of its history and involvement in the development of modern perfumery.

Official notes of the fragrance
YOUTH DEW LIMITED EDITION 2013
(60th birthday of original edition)
top notes: rose, daffodil, lavender
heart: jasmin, ginger, spices
base: moss, vetiver, patchouli

Estée Lauder is also releasing a limited-edition flanker to its Bronze Goddess series called Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche SkinScent. Fragrantica provides the following information:

Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche SkinScent is a new, limited edition of the Bronze Goddess collection which will be launched in March 2013. According to Moodiereport, the new fragrance will be available in duty-free stores in Europe, Middle East, Asia and America.

After golden-turquoise and sunny orange bottles sprinkled with golden glitter, here comes the golden edition—a bottle colored in gold evoking warm summer, hot and soft sand, a luxurious vacation full of excitement spiced with exotic and glamour. The fragrance contains notes of amber warming citrusy zests of mandarin and lemon, with a heart blooming with milky white petals.

Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche SkinScent 2013
mandarin, lemon, milky floral notes, amber

Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche SkinScent arrives as limited edition, 100 ml eau fraiche.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR:

The niche house, L’Artisan Parfumeur, will release a new woody-aromatic fragrance called Caligna.  Now Smell This has more details via the company’s press release: “French niche line L’Artisan Parfumeur will launch Caligna, a new woody aromatic fragrance. Caligna will be fronted by dancer Gudrun Ghesquière.” L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna

Addictive and aromatic. Take a stroll through the Grasse countryside, where mountains and the Mediterranean meet…

L’Artisan Parfumeur, together with perfumer Dora Baghriche-Arnaud, honours an emblematic but less well-known ingredient of the Grasse region: the clary sage. Fresh and sensual, green and woody, fruity and ambery, the highly-facetted clary sage was the starting point for this perfume, and is married to, and enhanced with notes of fig and a jasmine marmalade accord, with all the natural richness of this iconic flower, resulting in an incomparable freshness and luminosity. The warm woody effect of the perfume’s base comes from the resinous depth of lentisk, a native plant of the maquis, and from pine needles, redolent of Mediterranean hillsides.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna will be available in 100 ml Eau de Parfum, £95.

M. MICALLEF:

The French luxury niche house of M. Micallef is launching a new fragrance called Royal Vintage in February 2013 that is inspired by beautiful vintage cars. Fragrantica provides information from the company’s press release:

M.Micallef is launching a new fragrance for men named ROYAL VINTAGE at the beginning of February 2013. The new fragrance is dedicated to men with timeless sophisticated elegance, and it gives intensive leather nuances harmoniously blended with strong woody notes and juicy fruits.

In the top notes Royal Vintage offers fruity notes of pink berries and bergamot, followed by leather and cypress in the heart of the composition. Strong masculine notes are warmed with a patchouli accord in the base surrounded with a sensual musky aura.

ROYAL VINTAGE
pink berries, bergamot
cypress, leather
musk, patchouli

“… For this atypical fragrance in our collection, I wanted to reinterpret the EXCLUSIVE bottle using the design codes of these beautiful vintage cars… ” says Martine Micallef. The new bottle of the Royal VIntage fragrance is colored with gray nuances and it comes in very elegant black packaging.

STELLA McCARTNEY:

NST has details on a new Stella McCartney fragrance that was just released in the UK. No word on when it will hit the US, though Sephora carries most of the line due to its great popularity, so it’s bound to hit these shores soon. The new fragrance is a flanker to her original L.I.L.Y fragrance but is a stronger version called L.I.L.Y Absolute:

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y Absolute

Stella McCartney introduces L.I.L.Y ABSOLUTE, her latest, very personal fragrance. Intensely sensual, the affirmation of a fulfilled and confident, modern woman. Mysterious and refined, it fully expresses the woods and lightens the floral notes to create a new, deeper fragrance. It begins with black truffle, spiced with black pepper. The heart is luminous, more illusive, layering lily of the valley, pink pepper and ambrette seeds over a signature of cool oak moss, dry white woods, patchouli and carnal notes of amber. Framed in gold, L.I.L.Y ABSOLUTE evokes a balanced sophistication.

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y Absolute is available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum, and can be found now at Selfridges in the UK, £65.

THIERRY MUGLER:

Thierry Mugler seems to have developed some sort of refill fountain for his most popular fragrances. It’s called Source, and Fragrantica has more details:

Besides the 20th anniversary of the iconic Angel fragrance (Article: Thierry Mugler Angel Precious Star 20th Birthday Edition, A*Men Gold Edition), Mugler celebrates 20 years of the refill bottles he offers to fans of his fragrances. In that honor he presents Source, a fragrant cell (fragrant fountain) for refills which will “pour” the four most popular editions at the same time: Angel, Alien, Womanity and Angel Eau de Toilette.

The idea to refill a Mugler flacon will decrease the need for new ones and owners of empty packaging will be delighted with the refills and the somewhat lower price for their favorite perfumes. It is stated that it could save $30 or more on each fragrance if the service is utilized. The latest project of Thierry Mugler Source can be seen in over 2000 stores in France so far, where Thierry Mugler perfumes can be purchased.