Frederic Malle L’Eau d’Hiver

"Fall Hydrangeas" by PatChoffrut at Etsy. (Store website link embedded within.)

“Fall Hydrangeas” by PatChoffrut at Etsy. (Store website link embedded within.)

Winter is in full swing in the Western hemisphere, so Frederic Malle‘s L’Eau d’Hiver by Jean-Claude Ellena seemed like a suitably symbolic choice for today’s review. It is described as a watercolour that intertwines water and coolness with softness and warmth. What struck me was the exquisitely delicate opening that felt like an olfactory visual that captured intangible senses of atmospheric light and quiet moods, and turned them into concrete form.

Painted in translucent colours, the opening somehow manages to encapsulate Zen-like serenity, silence, and elegance in a way that makes the perfume as a whole far more than a mere collection of notes, far more than the sum of its parts. Again and again, the words which came to mind were “hushed breaths” and “translucent light.” The overall effect is more of a feeling than just a perfume. I’m not one of Jean-Claude Ellena’s fans and his minimalism usually leaves me cold, but the opening of L’Eau d’Hiver truly impressed me and leaves no doubt as to his technical mastery or brilliance. If only it had lasted….

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L’Erbolario Meharees & Le Labo Labdanum 18

People often search for affordable facsimiles or “dupes” of famous fragrances. In the case of Frederic Malle‘s Musc Ravageur, one name that comes up is Meharees from the Italian brand, L’Erbolario Lodi. It’s been called the “Musc Ravageur killer” for a fraction of the price, and it’s also mentioned in the context of HermèsAmbre Narguilé as well. A more expensive niche name that comes up in relation to Musc Ravageur is Le Labo‘s Labdanum 18. I love both Musc Ravageur and a bargain, so I bought Meharees blindly, persuaded by the rave reviews and by the company’s description of camel rides through the Sahara and legendary oases filled with undulating date trees. I thought I’d review it in conjunction with Le Labo’s Labdanum 18 to show how they compare to the Malle.

Photo: George Steinmetz/Corbis. Source:  spiegel.de

Photo: George Steinmetz/Corbis. Source: spiegel.de

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My Scented Memories: From Rive Gauche to Fahrenheit

Source: The Non-Blonde.

Source: The Non-Blonde.

A few days ago, many of you shared your scented memories in response to a journalist’s questionnaire, and I loved reading your stories about your earliest fragrance memories, the scents that you loved and, in a few cases, those you hated from early on. I thought I would share my own stories in return, starting with my childhood when I first fell in love with perfume, then hated it immensely due to a few scented traumas, and then fell back in love with it for good. I’ll tell you a few tales, from lavender to YSL‘s famous Rive Gauche, and the impact of Jean-Claude Ellena‘s first breakout hit and acclaimed “masterpiece,” First for Van Cleef & Arpels. There will be talk of HermèsCaleche and Bel Ami, as well as Fracas, Opium, Kouros, and Egoiste, and even a funny work story about Dior‘s Fahrenheit when I was first starting my legal career at an infamously tough law firm.

Source: cqmagonline.com

Source: cqmagonline.com

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Kafkaesque on Elle.com

Right before Christmas, I was interviewed for an article on Elle.com about fragrances worn by royalty and modern creations which include similar olfactory bouquets or notes. The journalist, Jesse Breeden, was also interested in the most precious ingredients in perfumery and their modern usage. She was rather thrilled to hear that some of the original fragrances worn by various kings, queens, and tsars were actually available on the modern market to the average person.

The main theme of the piece was how the ingredients in your daily scent had once been so rare and expensive that they’d been reserved for royalty. I explained about the use of synthetics these days, and how several things that were once extremely common in perfumery are no longer used in the same way or form due to resource scarcity, cost, animal cruelty concerns, or IFRA/EU regulations. For example, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, or animal musks.

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