LM Parfums Epine Mortelle

All good fragrances tell stories. Epine Mortelle, the latest release from LM Parfums, reads like an elegant fairytale. Imagine yourself walking in the woods. You take a wrong turn, and suddenly find yourself lost in darkness where trees are made from black and fiery Szechuan peppers, and the air is dense with an aromatic greenness that is almost like pine. A hushed silence hangs over everything — heavy, black, green, and thick. Yet, in the distance, a pale, pink light glows like beacon.

Photo: "Dark forest" by VityaR83 on deviantART http://vityar83.deviantart.com/art/dark-forest-299891639

Photo: “Dark forest” by VityaR83 on deviantART http://vityar83.deviantart.com/art/dark-forest-299891639

Suddenly, before you know it, you stumbled into a clearing where roses blanket the ground as far as the eye can see. Their petals are made of velvet from pink pepper berries, and their heart billows out sweet, yellow mimosa pollen. Candied violets are sprinkled on top, while their roots grow in earthy soil made from musky cassis (or black currents) and spices. Every part of the magical flowers is blanketed with angelica, a herb that grows green and spicy.

Rose petal meringues. Source: foodandtravel.com

Rose petal meringues. Source: foodandtravel.com

It’s hard to believe you were ever in that haunted forest, especially as the scene before your eyes changes quickly. Before you know it, the roses turn dark and rubied, wafting a fruity sweetness infused with spices. Trees made of violet orris lipstick sprout magically from the ground. As you walk, vines made out of a rich vanilla custard curl around your limbs, as tiny fireflies made of cumin dart around you. Then, as if a good witch waved her wand, everything changes and the spicy, lipstick rose vanishes. Now, you’re suddenly sitting down to have tea with sweet, powdery meringues made of roses and angelica. It’s as though you took a brief walk through Maleficient’s dark forest to suddenly end up at the Snow White’s pastry shop, but all of it is done seamlessly, elegantly, and with great richness.

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Oriza L. Legrand Heliotrope Blanc: Sweet Innocence

Norman Rockwell, "Mother Tucking Children Into Bed," 1921. Source: pinterest.

Norman Rockwell, “Mother Tucking Children Into Bed,” 1921. Source: pinterest.

Childhood pleasures and sweet innocence, captured in a bottle. Heliotrope Blanc surprised me, beguiled me, and charmed me against all odds. So many of its elements are things that I normally struggle with in perfumery, quite deeply at times, but there is something about this fragrance that is incredibly soothing and comforting for me.

It’s a cozy snuggle scent that made me think of Mary Poppins, almond milk and marshmallow cream, babies in soft blankets, a mother’s loving embrace as she puts her child to sleep, and childhood treats. Heliotrope Blanc’s sweet innocence completely blew away my longstanding issues with iris and powdery scents, leaving me coming back again and again for another sniff. In the end, I simply sprayed some on my sheets and pillows, and snuggled into them with a happy sigh. Apparently, one should never underestimate the impact of childhood comforts.

Source: mesenvies.fr

Source: mesenvies.fr

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Oriza L. Legrand Violettes du Czar: An Imperial Favorite

Russian Imperial Coat of Arms. Source: Wikipedia.

Russian Imperial Coat of Arms. Source: Wikipedia.

The Tsar’s violets — the signature scent of not one but two Imperial Romanov rulers. How many fragrances can make that claim? Oriza L. Legrand‘s Violettes du Czar can — and now the imperial favorite has been brought back to life after more than 150 years to be made available to the modern man.

It’s the coolest thing imaginable for someone like me who loves history even more than perfume, but almost everything about Oriza L. Legrand (hereinafter just “Oriza“) is historically fascinating to me. For one thing, out of all the European perfume houses who created scents for royal or imperial courts (there is a difference), only Oriza was chosen as “Purveyor to the Russian Court.” Oriza made a number of fragrances for the imperial court, but their Violettes du Czar was the signature scent of two of the more significant Romanov rulers.

Chromolithography of Alexander II, coronation. Source: WikiCommons, commons.wikimedia.org

Chromolithography of Alexander II at his coronation. Source: WikiCommons, commons.wikimedia.org

In fact, it was made specifically for Alexander II or “Alexander the Liberator” who emancipated the serfs. Later, it was worn by his grandson, Nicholas II, whose actions were one of the causes that helped bring about the end of the Russian Empire and who was murdered in 1918 by the Bolsheviks. Of course, Oriza also made fragrances for other imperial courts as well, including another violet one for Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s consort, but it is the Romanov violet that is the subject of today’s tale. It is a scent with several kinds of violet in it, from a particular variety from Nice (France), to the crunchy green of its leaves. In the ultimate symbolic parallel, the coup de gras comes in the form of Russian leather and golden amber. The end result is a scent that not only takes me back in time but, in all honesty, feels like something which a man like Alexander II would wear.

Source: Angelfire.com

Source: Angelfire.com

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Surrender to Chance Cold Water Canyon & Surrender

Source:  wayoutwax.wordpress.com

Source: wayoutwax.wordpress.com

Cold Water Canyon and Surrender are two different takes on jasmine, both by the same master of all-natural perfumery, both surprisingly sweet, fresh, and green. The two fragrances are part of the debut collection from Surrender to Chance, the American decanting service, and were created by AbdesSalaam Attar (or Dominique Dubrana) of La Via del Profumo.

He is a man who I think has a particularly masterful touch when it comes to jasmine, and the new Surrender to Chance fragrances are no exception. They both highlight a very tender side to the flower, a side that I did not expect from the perfumes’ descriptions or one that I encounter very often. At the same time, however, the tender, sweet fragility and the fresh greenness were also (and quite cleverly) given an original twist through the inclusion of unexpected notes, be it licorice with a wisp of darkness, or the aromatic sweetness of sage, pine, myrrh, and mountain plants. The end result is different, charming, and appealing, though not without its flaws.

COLD WATER CANYON:

Cold Water Canyon bottle. Source: STC and La Via del Profumo.

Cold Water Canyon bottle. Source: STC and La Via del Profumo.

Cold Water Canyon is intended to replicate the aroma of a mountain canyon in summer. Surrender to Chance’s press release describes the scent and its notes as follows:

Coldwater Canyon was suggested to us by a friend and long-time customer who asked for a fragrance inspired by the scent of a summer canyon full of sage, pine and mountain plants with sweetly scented night-blooming jasmine perfuming the night air. Coldwater Canyon is a perfect balance between a green perfume and a floral.

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