Guerlain Vol De Nuit (Modern Parfum)

Guerlain‘s Vol de Nuit is legendary among chypre (and narcissus) lovers, so I was curious to see how it fared in the age of IFRA with its draconian limits on oakmoss which, as many of you know, has now been legally restricted in perfumery to practically nonexistent levels. So let’s take a look at the current parfum, a sample of which I bought in early 2021.

Guerlain Vol de Nuit parfum. Source: Fragrantica.

Continue reading

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Vintage Jardin Blanc

I bought it on a whim, never expecting to be completely blown away by a radiant, luminous chypre and white floral with the classique lushness and verdant mossiness of old: Jardin Blanc by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier (“MPG”) absolutely dazzled my socks off.

Continue reading

Dior Vintage Miss Dior (EDT & EDC)

Vintage Miss Dior by Christian Dior is a fragrance loved by men and women alike. I finally understood why when I went back in time to try a 1950s/60s eau de toilette version. It was extremely different than the Miss Dior eau de toilettes that I’d tried in passing during the 1980s and 1990s. What an absolute stunner! It was a highly sophisticated, unisex, floral, smoky cuir de russie leather on me as much as a floral chypre

Oddly, however, when doing a comparative review with the same era cologne concentration, I had a dramatically different experience.

Vintage Miss Dior EDC, left, and Vintage Miss Dior EDT, right. Both from the same era.

Continue reading

Cartier Vintage Le Baiser du Dragon

Let’s look at a unisex family favourite, Cartier‘s Le Baiser du Dragon, a chypre-ambery scent created by master perfumer Alberto Morillas and filled with amaretto and fresh almonds, lushly creamy gardenia, lovely vetiver, rose, ambery resins, and so much more.

Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon, 1st edition EDP. Photo: my own

Continue reading