Les Indémodables Iris Perle veers from a predominant iris focus laced with crisp lemon, crunchy green violet leaves, and a Chanel-style aesthetic to a scent that is more of a mixed floral bouquet with mimosa, ylang-ylang, jasmine, and orris-derived violets. It all depends on how much fragrance I apply. Let’s take a look at both versions, shall we?
Source: Dreamstime.com
Today’s further examination of Les Indémodables centers on Fougère Emeraude (hereinafter spelled without the accent) and Cuir de Chine. One is far more of an aromatic floral and a floral gourmand than an actual fougère, in my opinion, while the other is a lovely fruity osmanthus leather.
Individual photos: Les Indemodables. Collage: my own.
Les Indémodables‘ Chypre Azural is a radiantly bright, fresh, aromatic orange citrus fragrance that is far from a traditional chypre, in my opinion. Despite its extremely misleading name, it stood out for the high quality of its raw materials which is a specific focal point and signature for Les Indémodables as a whole. I’ll be covering a number of its fragrances in the weeks ahead and, since this is my first time writing about the brand, I wanted to start by telling you a little about it and, specifically, its key selling points and olfactory goals.
Les Indemodables collection. Photo: the brand.
Let’s take a look at IFRA/EU restrictions on oakmoss, the future of chypres, the reasons why fragrance houses are eschewing chypres, fractional distillation to remove IFRA-forbidden allergens, the use of seaweed to supplement or create an oakmoss base, the type of oakmoss that suppliers make available to perfume houses, and how the fear of still more restrictions in the future is impacting the types of scents that perfume houses are making. A fascinating, highly informative discussion of these issues took place last night on Twitter with several experts chiming in to explain what is going on behind the scenes and its significance. I learnt a considerable amount, particularly regarding the type of oakmoss currently on the market, and I’d like to share that with you here.
Source: 10wallpaper.com