Guerlain Shalimar Ode à La Vanille Sur La Route De Mexique

In my perpetual hunt for the perfect vanilla, I decided to try Guerlain‘s Shalimar Ode à La Vanille Sur La Route De Mexique. The very first “Shalimar Ode à La Vanille” was released in 2010, and was a gourmand, vanilla-centric flanker to the great Shalimar that was subsequently followed by another limited-edition gourmand version in 2012 called Ode à La Vanille Sur La Route De Madagascar. In 2013, the Mexique version was released, also in limited-edition, but this one is still easily found on a number of online retailers for a great, discounted price. It’s not my perfect vanilla by any means, but I can see why some people like the fragrance, especially those who struggle with the 1925 Shalimar original and dislike its dark, smoky, leathery, and animalic undertones.

Ode à La Vanille, Mexique Version bottle and box. Source: tatler.ru

Ode à La Vanille, Mexique Version bottle and box. Source: tatler.ru

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Papillon Perfumery Angélique: Chameleon In the Woods

Catherine Jeltes Painting, "Modern Brown Abstract Painting WinterScape." Etsy Store, GalleryZooArt, linked within. (Click on photo.)

Catherine Jeltes Painting, “Modern Brown Abstract Painting WinterScape.” Etsy Store, GalleryZooArt, linked within. (Click on photo.)

An ethereal spring bouquet of silvery iris and white flowers dusted with mimosa’s golden sweetness. Then, a lush, orchid-like, champaca vanilla infused with boozy, fruited liqueur and smoky guaiac. Finally, an extremely woody fragrance with masculine elements of burnt leaves, smokiness, and musk. That was the very surprising progression of Angélique, a chameleon scent that first filled me with visions of bridal white (and thoughts of how well it was named) before it astounded me by rapidly morphing into a completely different fragrance, one that was quite a pleasant surprise. In fact, at times, I was sniffing my wrist with much appreciation. Although the drydown changed things for me, there are parts of Angélique that can well be called “exquisite” or “beautifully lush.”This is a fragrance that is so evocative at times that I’ve just barely managed to stop myself from explaining its development solely in terms of a series of images. That said, please pay close attention to the photos in this review, particularly to the sharp changes in colour, style, mood, and background, as they reflect changes within the perfume itself.

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Twisted Lily, International Readers & International Shipping

I wanted to let my international readers know about a new option that they have when they want to sample or buy a fragrance. Twisted Lily is a boutique in Brooklyn, New York that you may not be aware of and which carries a wonderful selection of niche fragrances that they ship world-wide. A good number of Twisted Lily’s offerings are perfume houses not carried by Luckyscent, so I thought I’d give you a quick overview of the store and why some readers (especially those outside of Europe) might want to explore the website for themselves.

Twisted Lily. Source: populayer.com

Twisted Lily. Source: populayer.com

Their range is truly impressive. They have the big or popular houses like Amouage, Xerjoff, Etat Libre d’Orange, Nasomatto, Mona di Orio, Montale, and Serge Lutens (including the brand new L’Orpheline that I just reviewed). However, they also carry mid-sized houses like Carner BarcelonaArquiste, Andy Tauer, or the luxurious Grossmith, along with a lot of small American, European, or indie brands that you would never find at Luckyscent. For example, Slumberhouse, Charenton Macerations (whose Christopher Street I reviewed recently), Maria Candida Gentile, or Imaginary Authors. Continue reading

Papillon Perfumery Tobacco Rose

"Romeo and Juliet," by Sir Frank Dicksee. Source: caitaratartaglia.wordpress.com

“Romeo and Juliet,” by Sir Frank Dicksee. Source: caitaratartaglia.wordpress.com

Tobacco Rose is a rich, saturated, luxurious rose fragrance from Papillon Perfumery that would probably have inspired Shakespeare to write another dozen sonnets or plays. In Romeo and Juliet, he said “a rose by any other name smells as sweet,” arguing that names do not matter, only the essential nature of a thing. He’s right, but I don’t think that his philosophy always holds true for perfumes. Names do matter in the expectations that they create, and “Tobacco Rose” is no different. Yet, in this case, I find none of darkness that is suggested, and I think that the scent would appeal far more to a “Juliet” than to a “Romeo.” That said, if a particular Juliet were a really passionate rose fanatic, I suspect she might swoon far more over Tobacco Rose than any words spouted by a pimply Romeo.

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