Rogue Perfumery‘s Tuberose & Moss is intended to be a tuberose chypre inspired by vintage fragrances of the 1960s but with a modern character as well. My experiences with the scent were complicated, to say the least.
Rogue Tuberose & Moss, 30 ml bottle.
DI SER‘s Hikaru Daichi takes you on a trip to Japan’s mountain forests from the clean, crisp air at the peak to the green-tinged earthy forest floors below, complete with aromatic, fragrant pine cones strewn all over. The only things that remove you from the naturalism of this tableau are church-style frankincense and immensely resinous, tarry, leathery oud.
Source: Pikist
Not all fragrances with a cult following deserve their accolades. DI SER‘s Kyara does, in my opinion. It’s a superb, opulent, smoldering oud with Kyara or Kinam (Kynam) agarwood, the best, rarest, and highest grade of oud whose exorbitant cost and scarcity preclude most perfumers from using it in perfumery. It’s actually considered rather insane to do so and, yet, DI SER did. The result – in conjunction with a truly exquisite, lush, intoxicating, honeyed rose – is fantastic.
Vietnamese kyara oud wood. Source: Kyazen. (Direct website link embedded within.)
Azman‘s Majnoon beckoned to me from the moment I read its notes. Coffee, tobacco, leather, rich spices, champaca and rose, two different kinds of oud, incense, patchouli, and amber were just some of the materials holding great promise. There was also the fact that the famous artisanal perfumer, Prin Lomros, was the nose.
I couldn’t wait to try it. For someone with my particular tests, it was bound to be hit, right?
Well, things did not turn out as anticipated.
Azman Perfumes Majnoon. Photo: Azman.