A Guide to Vintage Shalimar – Part I: The Parfum (1930s-1980s)

There are some fragrances so iconic, so beloved, and so immense in their impact that they require little explanation, and Shalimar may be at the very top of that list. Vintage Shalimar, however, requires a lot of explanation when it comes to choosing the right one for you, especially if you’re trying to stay within a budget.

My hope is to make some of it less confusing for you and to give you a few pointers, but I also want to pay tribute to vintage Shalimar in its pure parfum form. Almost all of us are familiar with the basic gist of Shalimar’s olfactory composition, but the parfum or extrait is exceptional, and The Marly Horse bottles in particular. The latter triggered a sort of madness and obsession in me over the last few months, and ignited a degree of passion that few fragrances — vintage or otherwise — have matched in last 20 years, not even other forms of vintage Shalimar. I’d like to take you down the rabbit-hole with me in this post and its subsequent Parts II and III (which covers how to date the approximate era or decade of a bottle).

Vintage Shalimar in different concentrations. Photo & bottles: my own.

Vintage Shalimar in different concentrations. Photo & bottles: my own.

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Tom Ford Vert d’Encens

Source: feelgrafix.com

Source: feelgrafix.com

Tom Ford explores new territory with his Vert d’Encens, transporting you to forest landscapes where mighty pines and fragrant fir trees drop their aromatic pine needles and sweet sap over a leafy greenness. Yet, there is a twist: smoky incense, heliotrope vanilla, and dusty, dark chocolate are layered within, resulting in one of the more interesting and appealing Tom Ford releases in a while. In fact, I found its opening to be so appealing that I pondered buying Vert d’Encens for myself. It’s the first time that a Tom Ford fragrance has tempted me in a number of years.

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Tom Ford Vert Boheme: The Return of the ’70s

1977 Pierre Cardin Haute Couture in L'officiel magazine. Source: Pinterest.

1977 Pierre Cardin Haute Couture in L’officiel magazine. Source: Pinterest.

Vert Boheme is one of four new Tom Ford fragrances called Les Extraits Verts which were released in September as part of the Private Blend Collection. Vert Boheme is a clean, fresh, green and feminine (not unisex) floral eau de parfum that follows a classical 1970s style. It reminded me a lot of a mix of YSL‘s vintage Rive Gauche, Diorissimo, and Chanel‘s Cristalle, given a modern touch through a heavy dose of clean musk. Having said that, I have major issues with its development, structure, and quality, and I don’t find it to be particularly distinctive. Be that as it may, I think Vert Boheme will be a very popular fragrance with women who like extremely fresh, clean, crisp, green florals as well as the vintage style of perfumery.

On his website, Tom Ford describes Vert Boheme as follows:

Sparkling and infallible like a jewel gleaming in the Sun, Private Blend Vert Bohéme is TOM FORD’s interpretation of green at its most free-spirited. Sicilian, Mandarin and Magnolia exude Bohemian femininity, exquisitely enhanced with gustavia, also known as “The Tree of Heaven”, known for its spectacular single blossoms that last for just one day. The fresh vibrancy awakens a divine first bloom, crystal-clear and exposed.

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Tom Ford Ombre Leather 16 (+Tuscan Leather)

Ombre Leather in its two sizes. Source: Luckyscent.

Ombre Leather. Source: Luckyscent.

Tom Ford returns to the leather genre with Ombre Leather 16. It is an eau de parfum in his Private Blend collection and it was released earlier this month. Tom Ford’s description and press release describe the scent as follows:

Textured. Sleek. Enveloping.

For the first time, TOM FORD unveils a private blend eau de parfum directly inspired by the runway. Ombré Leather 16 invites you into his complete vision of the AW16 season with a definitive olfactive statement.

A textural take on the most precious of fine leathers, Ombré Leather 16 imprints with a tactile sensuality, revealing a refined combination of contrasts — the sleek enigma of black leather wrapped in voluptuous glamour.

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