I’m not often conflicted and I always try to realize the lines between my personal tastes and what is objectively well-done, but LiTA, by Antonio Gardoni for Bogue, a more temperate, restrained, femininized version of the pretty bowlderizing, over-the-top, wildly in-your-face T-Rex for Zoologist, made that difficult.
LiTa, by Antonio Gradoni for Bogue
Areej Le Doré (“ALD” or Areej“) is as, some of you know, my favourite artisanal brand. Today, a look at Antiquity (which I went gaga for), War & Peace, a stellar fragrance, and the bright, easy, sunlit Siberian Summer. All three Series 5 fragrances are excellent but, alas, now out of stock due to being limited-edition releases. Still, I thought my old 2019 reviews might be of some value for those who ordered samples or bottles and who might like a detailed analysis thereof.
Areej Le Doré Antiquity. Phooto: my own
Oud Maximus by Bortnikoff is a thoroughly enjoyable fragrance that veers between being an animalic floral oud, a floral oud leather, and a slightly gourmand, ambered fragrance. I truly did not expect to like it as much as I did.
Oud Maximus. This is a photo of an older bottle without the date, which the most recent 2020 fragrance has.
François Coty. Photo: Wikipedia
Fascism is the common thread that ties two important early 20th century figures: the perfumer François Coty and the haute couturier Lucien Lelong who, as fragrance director, made a number of excellent fragrances with the legendary nose Jean Carles. The critical point, however, is how each man responded to fascism.
The biography of one of the great noses of the time, Coty, is typically white-washed of his extreme white supremacy ideological beliefs, his raging antisemitism, and his support for fascists like Mussolini. That gap in his coverage is something I mean to fix today.
I also want to talk to you about one of my 20th century fragrance heroes, Lucien Lelong, who has been relegated to the deepest shadows of time despite having saved both Jews and the French fashion industry from the Nazis during the latter’s occupation of Paris in WW2. To put another way, he was the Oskar Schindler of Parisian haute couture. Plus, he had an intriguing personal life, like marrying a Romanov princess whilst secretly being gay.
Lucien Lelong, circa 1932. Source: Pinterest.