Perfume Review – Tom Ford Private Blend Arabian Wood: The Mossy Forest

Posted on April 13, 2013 by Kafkaesque

Names can be misleading — and that is definitely the case with Tom Ford‘s Private Blend Arabian Wood. Though rumour has it that the perfume was originally a bespoke, unique creation for a sheikh, Arabian Wood is neither Arabian nor particularly woody. (It’s not very masculine, either.) Instead, it is a woody, floral chypre fragrance that takes you to a very verdant, mossy, flower-strewn forest floor in the middle of a secluded glen.

Photo: Nora Blansett.

Whatever the truth to the rumour of Tom Ford creating a custom-blended perfume for a well-known, wealthy sheikh, Arabian Wood was released in 2008 as a fragrance exclusive to the Kuwait market, before being made available world-wide in 2009. Neiman Marcus provides Tom Ford’s press release description for the scent:

[T]his woody chypre was inspired by the extraordinary confluence of the Middle East’s past and present aromatic wonders.

Capturing the mystique of Arabia, a rare combination of precious woods, opulent green notes, rich florals, and exotic spices provides a footprint or modernity outlined in ethnic tradition.

This exotic experience opens with top notes of aromatic lavender with the bold floralcy of Bulgarian rose, freesia, orange blossom, and green galbanum, brightened with sparkling bergamot. These effervescent notes are enhanced with hand-picked rose de mai.

The heart pulses with the warmth and sensuality of lavish florals, including ylang ylang, rose absolute, jasmine, gardenia, and luscious honey and orris.

The base notes blend patchouli with cedarwood, oak moss, sandalwood, and honey, while tonka bean and radiant amber leave a distinct trail of opulence.

I always get extremely excited when I see a long list of notes, as it portends a fragrance with enormous depth, and Arabian Wood puts many fragrances to shame with a mind-boggling 28 notes. (Yes, I counted.) The most complete list comes from Nordstrom and reads as follows:

bergamot, freesia, lavender, orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, May rose, galbanum, gardenia, geranium, iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, ylang-ylang, clove, honey, apricot, cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, moss, oakmoss, amber, tonka bean, vanilla, honeycomb, raspberry.

Arabian Wood opens on my skin as the most classic of aromatic fougères. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the term, a fougère is a category of fragrance — often colognes, but not always — that have a citrus component atop a strongly herbal base that usually consists of lavender, coumarin, oakmoss, or some combination thereof. Here, Arabian Wood begins with a very traditional cologne opening of citrus with strong oakmoss that reminds me of Givenchy‘s Monsieur de Givenchy.

Dried oakmoss or tree moss.

The scent is simultaneously light and aromatic, but with simply massive amounts of oakmoss. The first time I applied Arabian Wood, I went with a lesser dosage (about 2 big smears from the dab bottle), since moderation is often the wiser path with Tom Ford’s Private Blend line. But I was frustrated with the perfume’s projection so, the second time, I decided to apply almost three times as much. Quantity definitely impacts the nature of the moss with a lower amount creating something far more velvety, plush, fresh and brightly green in image. At the higher application level, the moss was much more akin to that in traditional chypres or fougère fragrances: dusty, dry, grey, mineralized, and with a sharply bitter component. Also fluctuating was the prominence of the galbanum. At a lower level, the galbanum in Arabian Wood isn’t sharply, bracingly dark but, rather, softer and with a gentler, earthier tone that rather evoked the damp, loamy floor of a forest.

Fresh moss and lichen. Source: Lars Dahlin at Flick.

On both occasions, however, there were other notes lurking under the strong green facade. As the minutes passed and that initial burst of cologne-like citrus faded, there were noticeable accords of: herbal lavender; peppery cedarwood; earthy, dark, rooty vetiver; and what definitely felt like dry hay (coumarin). I don’t particularly like lavender but, here, it is modest and very well-blended into the very aromatic, herbal, sum total. When you throw in the very muted, almost ghostly hints of red-brown cloves, fuzzy geranium, and the slow start of a mossy patchouli, the final vision is really hard to escape: Arabian Woods transports you to the forest.

It’s a small, secluded part of an incredibly green Irish valley, a small nook where tall, red-brown trees cast shadows over the forest floor filled with touches of purple from almost hidden lavender bushes, darkened green-black galbanum, wet black soil, and a vast carpet of moss that varies from the brightest Emerald Isles green to the more pungently, lichen-like grey. There is simply nothing about the desert or Arabia in the picture that the perfume weaves — now or later.

Mossy forest in North Wales. Photo: Jimpix.co.uk free e-cards.

The initial burst of aromatic fougère and bitterness makes Arabian Wood a fragrance that, at first glance, seems very masculine. But, like the name, that too is misleading. With every passing minute, the citrus element wanes, while the green notes from the oakmoss, galbanum and geranium soften. The patchouli becomes more prevalent, but this is no 1970s, dirty, hippie, black patchouli. It’s softly mossy, almost green, and infinitely velvety. It’s beautifully blended in, just adding the perfect touch of sweetness to the notes. Arabian Wood is a true chypre under every possible definition of the term. I don’t know quite how Tom Ford managed it given the IFRA/EU restrictions on oakmoss, but this doesn’t smell like an ersatz, quasi or fake chypre at all!

Within less than the twenty minutes, the flowers arrive on the scene, pushing their way up through that earthy, rooty soil and slowly taking over the moss. The florals march in two by two, the rose and jasmine, unfurling in slow bloom. Trailing in their footsteps is orange blossom and ylang-ylang, then honey, and, finally, a touch of powder taking up the rear. It feels like a procession of notes determined to eradicate any vestige of sharpness, bitterness or strong masculinity from that opening. Almost like light coming in through the trees to brighten the darkness and the overwhelming blanket of green. The softening of the perfume extends also to its sillage. Arabian Wood drops sharply in projection after the first hour, hovering a bare inch (if that) above the skin. It is possibly the gentlest chypre I have experienced in a while.

By the start of the second hour, the perfume is truly pretty. The sandalwood has joined the party on the forest floor. It’s beautifully creamy, and its richness feels very much like the real thing, not a synthetic version. Together with that velvety patchouli, it’s a strong backbone for much of the perfume’s remaining development. The whole thing is a perfectly balanced, nuanced, layering of notes where jasmine and orange blossom vie with the rose, all over a rich woody base of moss, patchouli, sandalwood and honey, with powder and faint touches of peppery cedar. There is great sweetness in the scent that grows stronger with every hour, as more of the honey comes out. I also continue to smell something in the background that calls to mind coumarin’s dry hay notes but it is subtle. What I absolutely do not smell is any trace of lily-of-the-valley, gardenia, apricot, or raspberry to my nose; not on either of the two occasions that I tested the perfume.

By the start of the third hour, Arabian Wood is a sweetly honeyed, patchouli, sandalwood skin scent with very abstract floral notes. There is the feel of rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang, but it’s all blended into one very harmonious whole where the individual components are not particularly distinctive. What is individually noticeable, however, is the the increasing powdery undertone to the perfume. It doesn’t smell like a clear, definite, iris accord, nor like Guerlain’s sort of powder. Rather, the floral notes just feel as though they’re being filtered through a light dusting of powder, almost a bit like sweet pollen. It has to be the orris but, if so, it’s orris and iris done very well. Perhaps the honey is the reason since that is now a much stronger component of the perfume.

Arabian Wood remains that way for another 6 hours when the tonka bean arrives, followed by muted vanilla and some musk. The perfume is now very much soft oakmoss-infused patchouli, sandalwod, honey, tonka bean, powder, lightly sweetened musk, and dry, amorphous woody notes. It’s almost like a Guerlainade feel in some ways, but not quite. Perhaps because it seems more modernized in some ways, as well as more woody. Whatever the reason, Arabian Wood remains that way until it finally recedes away. With the lesser dosage, the longevity clocked in at around 6.5 hours; using three times as much made the perfume last about 8.5 hours. But throughout, the sillage after the first thirty minutes was low.

Arabian Wood is a lovely perfume by itself, but I keep hearing how extraordinary it is when layered with some other Tom Ford Private Blend fragrances. Specifically, Private Blend Oud Wood, Bois Marocain, and Italian Cypress. I haven’t tried the combinations myself, but I can see how Arabian Wood’s slightly feminine, floral, chypre qualities would go beautifully with more spicy or dryly wooded fragrances. Whatever Arabian Wood’s sandalwood and muted cedarwood elements, it’s really not a woody fragrance, per se. It’s most definitely a floral chypre, after that very intensely masculine beginning where it was all aromatic fougère. Nonetheless, I don’t want that to put off male readers. This is a unisex fragrance, and Arabian Wood is definitely worn by men. In fact, I obtained my sample as a very generous gift from a male reader, Ross, who loves to layer it with Tom Ford’s Oud Wood.

All in all, I very much liked Arabian Wood, but I wasn’t swept away. It doesn’t feel distinctive enough in some ways. It has the advantage of being an exceedingly gentle, smooth, richly-nuanced chypre that isn’t frightening in bitterness or pungency, but I think those who have a vast knowledge of vintage chypres may not be brought to their knees. And, for me personally, the extremely low sillage was very frustrating. I wanted more of the plush, soft, patchouli-sweetened mossiness, but at times, I had to forcibly inhale at my arm to detect the notes. Even applying three times the amount that I usually use for Tom Ford’s Private Blend didn’t solve the problem. I have problems with longevity, not sillage, and the Private Blend line is usually extremely powerful, so I have to admit to some surprise.

On Fragrantica, the votes are completely split on the issue of sillage. There are 6 votes for “soft,” 7 for “moderate,” 5 for “heavy,” and 4 for “enormous.” Clearly, it all depends on the person’s skin. The comments are also split, with some finding the perfume very soapy, others saying it has absolutely nothing arabian or woody about it, a few arguing the fougère -vs- chypre issue, and a good chunk saying it is a very feminine fragrance. One person even compared it to vintage Cabochard Extrait, which brings me to another point.

The perfume blog, EauMG, had a very interesting list of similar perfumes or “dupes,” if you will:

… [as] this perfume settles, I get something that reminds me of the new formulation of Lancome’s Magie Noire, Piguet Bandit and Maja. [¶] […] Give Arabian Wood a try if you like perfumes like Balmain Ivoire, Jacomo Silences, Maja, Guerlain Vega, Van Cleef & Arpels First, and/or Piguet Bandit. [Emphasis added.]

I’ve tried most of those fragrances (though it’s been an exceedingly long time ago for some), but on my skin, Arabian Wood wasn’t as soapy as First and definitely didn’t have the ferocious, biting greenness (or galbanum) of Bandit. I can’t remember vintage Ivoire well enough now to compare the two, but I can see some definite similarities with Jacomo‘s Silences. Either way, the comparisons prove my point that Arabian Wood may not wow any vintage collector of chypres, though it is a great choice for anyone who can’t get their hands on those classics in their true (unreformulated) form.

I think Arabian Wood is a fragrance that would be incredibly sexy on a man, and quite alluring on a woman. There is a sophistication and elegance to the smoothness of the scent, a degree of luxurious depth and richness, and a subtle hint of mystery. It may be like a lot of vintage chypres — but there aren’t any vintage chypres that sold in stores today and exceedingly few regular, commercial ones! As such, Arabian Wood is a scent that will stand out. And, it’s definitely one worth looking into.

DETAILS:

Cost & Availability: Private Blend Arabian Wood is an eau de parfum, and is available on the Tom Ford website where it retails for: $205 for a 50 ml/1.7 oz bottle, $280 for a 100 ml/3.4 oz bottle or $495 for a 200 ml/8.45 oz bottle. In the US, you can also find it at fine department stores such as Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, and others. In Canada, I believe Tom Ford is carried at Holt Renfrew, but I don’t see Arabian Wood listed as one of their 2 Tom Ford fragrances on the online website. In the UK, you can find it at Harrods or Selfridges. Both stores sell the small 1.7 oz/50 ml size for £135.00 or £300.00 for the super-large 250 ml bottle. The smaller size is also carried at House of Fraser. Tom Ford Beauty doesn’t seem to be carried by retailers in France, but it is in many European nations from Denmark and Belgium to the Russian Federation. You can use the store locator on the website to find a retailer near you. In Australia, I saw Arabian Wood on the MyShopping.com.au site where it retails for AUD$249.95. The Tom Ford line is supposedly carried at David Jones stores, but Arabian Wood is not one of the handful of Tom Ford fragrances carried on the David Jones website. Elsewhere, Tom Ford fragrances are carried in numerous different countries; hopefully, you can find one near you using the store locator on the Tom Ford website.

Samples: Surrender to Chance doesn’t have Arabian Wood at this moment, but you can try to find it at any of the department stores listed above to give it a test sniff. However, samples are available from The Perfumed Court (which I always think is more expensive than Surrender to Chance) and their prices start at $4.99 for a 1/2 ml vial.

.

Perfume Review – Puredistance Opardu: Exquisite Femininity

Posted on April 7, 2013 by Kafkaesque

“Exquisite.” That word just blew through my mind the minute I put on Opardu by the luxury niche perfume house, Puredistance. An explosion of lilac, purple and white filled my eyes, I moaned a little, and then I sprayed on some more. I barely restrained myself from putting on more than the usual, standard testing amount; I would have bathed in Opardu if it had been possible. It is, quite simply, spectacular.

Source: Wallpapers4desktop.net

Puredistance Master Collection – Opardu

Puredistance is a small brand whose perfumes typify the luxury, elegance, and restrained richness in the best style of classic perfumery. Each of their fragrances is made by a Master Perfumer and is an extrait de parfum blended at a whopping 25-32% concentration from the finest perfume oils. Opardu for Women is no exception. In fact, it tops the numbers at 32% concentration; I can’t think of a single modern perfume that is anywhere close to that degree of pureness.

Released in 2012, Opardu was created by Annie Buzantian and is classified on Fragrantica as a “floral woody musk.” Puredistance’s description for the perfume explains both its inspiration and its overall essence:

The word OPARDU expresses a deep longing for the bygone days of dreamy opulence and true romance. Puredistance OPARDU has an instant hypnotizing eﬀect that revives memories of love, romance and seduction. Be prepared for a perfume that will bring you back to the velvety nightlife of Paris in earlier days.

The Kees Van Dogen bouquet in the middle which served as the inspiration for Opardu. Source: Puredistance website.

Central to the ‘feeling’ of OPARDU have been the expressive paintings of Kees van Dongen, in particular one of his illustrations for the book ‘PARFUMS’ by Paul Valéry, published in 1945 in a limited edition of 1000.
When Jan Ewoud Vos [the founder of Puredistance] showed this illustration of Kees Van Dongen – a rich and lush bouquet of ﬂowers – to Annie Buzantian, the famous Master Perfumer from New York, she instantly fell in love with it. She also felt this nostalgic feeling for the early years of the last century; the golden age of perfumery.

According to Wikipedia, Kees van Dogen (1877-1968) was a 20th-century Dutch painter and one of the Expressionist Fauves (like Matisse) who “gained a reputation for his sensuous, at times garish, portraits.”

Opardu definitely evokes the feel of “bygone days of dreamy opulence.” Its notes are as follows:

Tuberose absolute, gardenia, Bulgarian rose, purple lilac, carnation, jasmine absolute, heliotrope, cedar wood.

The perfume opens on my skin with a veritable feast of purple. Stunningly beautiful lilacs — something I don’t come across often in perfumery — fill the air with a sweet, heady, but airy aroma. The scent has a delicacy which can only be described as exquisite.

It takes me to Japan, evoking the most willowy, delicate geisha in robes of the richest, embroidered purple silks, the merest whisper of transparent, white gauze at the base of her swan-like neck, the most feminine touch of pale pink on rosebud lips, as she walks daintily in a garden filled with the loveliest of spring blossoms and lush, velvety white flowers. There is wealth and luxury behind the notes, but also a supreme sophistication tied to endless femininity.

There is a fragility to the delicacy of Opardu, but this would be misleading. In the opening hour, Opardu is a strong scent that belongs with a woman who is confident enough to flaunt her feminine nature without fears of being seen as a simpering girl. I cannot fully explain why the perfume summons such feelings in me — but it does. This is seriously classique, haute elegance that calls back to the golden age of perfumery.

Lilacs. Source: Kootation.com

Tuberose and lush gardenia peek out behind the facade of lilacs, but there is also a sense of violets, perhaps something like the richest, most velvety African violets, unfurling their delicate richness in the night air. There is also a lovely sweetness from the jasmine absolute; while it is heady in that first hour, it never smells sour, over-ripe or plastic-y. Like everything else about the perfume, it is rich but restrained, sweet, and endlessly airy.

“Rosee Celeste” by David Graux via Art.com

Despite the very Spring-like visuals, the scent calls to mind the richness of night-blooming flowers. And, despite the gauzy, airy feel of delicate femininity, that lushness simultaneously evokes sensuality and an almost feline sensuousness. Opardu should not be judged by the delicate surface. Underneath the robes of that prim, restrained, endlessly dainty geisha is a woman who revels in her body and in her power to seduce. And that power is almost hypnotic. Puredistance wasn’t exaggerating when they described Opardu as having “an instant hypnotizing eﬀect that revives memories of love, romance and seduction.” You cannot stop sniffing your wrist, as you are transported back to more golden, more elegant, more refined times. Perhaps Japan of the geishas, perhaps the elegant capitals of Europe in the 1920s. Whatever it is, Opardu is simply spectacular.

Heliotrope.

As time passes, the notes change a little. At the thirty minute mark, lilacs and gardenia dominate, followed, in order, by tuberose, jasmine and rose. Those of you who are terrified of tuberose or jasmine should not worry; this is not an indolic perfume by any means. It is definitely not Fracas! Later, midway during the second hour, the perfume transforms into a very woody scent of slightly peppery cedar, conjoined with lilacs and a light musk. By the fourth hour and until the end, Opardu returns to its purple roots with soft lilac and violet overtones over a base of heliotrope. The latter has a scent between vanilla or almonds with a slightly powdery element. According to Fragrantica, heliotrope has been “proven to induce feelings of relaxation and comfort” — and I think it is definitely true here.

I love Opardu, but it is not perfect. I was enormously disappointed in the sillage which is so soft and low that Opardu was essentially a skin scent on me after the first hour. (And I sprayed on a good 3 sprays from the little sample that I had!) Even during that opening hour, it hovered maybe three inches above the skin. Afterwards, I had to bring my nose right to the skin to smell the fragrance. By the fourth hour, I actually thought it was close to gone, but Opardu has surprising persistence. Again and again, I thought it had vanished, only to be surprised when, later, I detected a sudden, noticeable patch of lilac. My notepad is covered with times and scribbles of “gone,” only to be scratched out with later times and “it’s still there!” The perfume seems to perform some sort of ghostly vanishing act, disappearing, reappearing, and so on. And all of this occurred on both occasions when I tested Opardu. I always make it very clear that I have perfume-consuming skin and endless problems with longevity, but I do not usually have problems with projection.

I found it especially frustrating in the case of Opardu because it is simply one of the best florals that I have come across in years. I cannot emphasize enough just how exquisite it is in that opening hour. The word “beautiful” does not do it any justice, and even “exquisite” may not be enough. I wasn’t as hugely enamoured by the rest of the perfume’s development which was lovely, but which didn’t reach the heights of that spectacular opening with its unbelievably delicate beauty, underlying lushness and enormous sophistication.

Kees Van Dogen – “Woman on a Sofa.”

Don’t mistake my meaning — Opardu is beautiful through and through, but that opening hour positively gave me whiplash in terms of just how magnificent it was. I was hypnotized, entranced, almost moaning out loud, and kept smelling my arm like someone under a spell. Thereafter, it was very pretty, but it wasn’t exquisite. I have to wonder how much the incredibly restrained sillage contributed to that feeling. Perhaps if that lilac-white flowers combination had remained as strong throughout the perfume’s development, the spell would have remained. As it was, the lightly peppered cedar and musk phase was pleasant, and the return of the lilacs at the very end made me very happy, but it was all a little too sheer and microscopic for my personal tastes.

That minimalistic sillage makes it hard for me to assess just how long it lasted on me. I actually smelled faint remnants of it on tiny patches of my arm well after 13 hours on one of my tests! Yet, that ghostly act makes me think that 8-9 hours may be a better estimate for the full perfume, as opposed to a few random, dime-sized spots here and there. I have tried to find reviews talking about Opardu’s sillage and duration on others, but I haven’t been successful. The few votes on Fragrantica seem to range all over the place for longevity, while the majority of people (3, in this case) have voted the sillage as “soft” which is the lowest ranking available. One commentator (“ladykarl“) seemed to indicate that the dry-down phase began on her after four hours:

Opardu is very beautiful as the mature ultra femme superfloral that it is. Would be lovely to the opera or an event where dressing up fine is the standard. Lilacs in the front; tuberose in the back (nice combo) The drydown is much less floral; woodsy which makes the later part of the scent (four hours in) much more laid back and well suited for regular life. If i had the right lifestyle i would definitely wear this.

Apart from the time factor, I don’t think that her brief assessment begins to do Opardu justice. I actually think one of the best assessments of the fragrance — out of the many, many positive ones out there — comes from Luckyscent itself:

Oh to be a madcap heiress, sliding through the crowd in a bias–cut satin gown and glittering pumps, a champagne cocktail in one hand and a leash leading to some exotic pet in the other. Your brows are perpetually arched as you scan the crowd for a dashing aviator or an adorably bookish professor to seduce. What scent are you wearing? Opardu, of course! Well, historically speaking, you wouldn’t be – but in the glorious art deco movie set of our minds, you are. Because Opardu is not about the past, it is about a fantasy of the past, just like our daydreams. It evokes the enchantment and glamour of a bygone era, but still feels modern.

[¶] The opening is especially evocative of another time and it is pure swank – like an expensive gift from a rich suitor, conjuring up images of mirror-topped vanities and red lipstick. This develops into an opulent floral featuring luminous gardenia, heady tuberose, piercing jasmine, and velvety rose. The mix is full and lush and there is the seductive thrum of cedar wood underneath it all. You might guess that the lilac and heliotrope would be overwhelmed by all of this and just sit off to the side and whisper to each other – but they are beautifully present, adding delicacy and charm as they put the twinkle in our saucy heroine’s eye. As the scent wears on, the more ethereal elements continue to shine and the overall effect is absolutely lovely.

For those who love soft florals and who want an unobtrusive perfume without enormous projection, then Opardu would be ideal. Even others who prefer greater sillage may be lucky and should try it — after all, I have very peculiar skin! For myself, in a perfect world where I had endless money, I would buy Opardu in a heartbeat — even with my sillage issues — because this is one scent where I would be perfectly happy to reapply every few hours simply to get that stunning, mesmerizing, hypnotic opening. Unfortunately, I’m not sure how practical that would be in reality, given the cost of the fragrance.

Opardu is not cheap but, thankfully, Puredistance has just launched a much more affordable pricing plan. All four of the brand’s perfumes now come in a 2 oz/60 ml bottle of pure parfum extract that costs $330 or €275. Previously, a full bottle of Opardu was only available in a 3.4 oz/100 ml size that cost $590, while a small 17.5 ml/ 0.59 fl. oz sized spray (essentially, a travel-sized mini) is $198.

I realise that these prices are high. But, first, let me remind you that we’re talking about pure parfum extrait at 32% — something that is almost unheard of. Second, price is a very subjective thing. Lastly, the company has done a very rare thing: it heard the whimpers about the prices for its perfumes, and made every attempt to offer a more accessible, reasonable alternative in both size and cost. My God, how rare is it for an haute-anything company — perfume, fragrance, fashion or something else — to actually listen to its consumers and offer something less expensive?

I loved Opardu’s opening. I loved it with the passion of a thousand suns. I want to be wrapped up in its cocoon forever and to have its magical tendrils weave their spell around me as I sleep. It makes me feel so stunningly beautiful and delicate; and it triggered feelings of pure joy and peacefulness. I could really rave about it morning, noon and night. Whether the rest of the perfume’s development matches that initial magic is something that is up to you to decide. If you love delicate, feminine florals, then you must try this perfume. It’s really as simple as that.

Disclosure: My small vial was provided courtesy of Puredistance. As always, I make it very clear to any company who sends me things, upfront, that there is no guarantee of a positive review, or even of a review at all. I also make it clear that I will always be completely honest about a perfume, as my first obligation is to my readers.

DETAILS:

The Gift Set box with its satin lining.

Cost & Availability: Opardu is available in a variety of different sizes and forms on the Puredistance website and I believe shipping is free to the U.S. (and to an EU nation). You can buy a 17.5 ml travel size spray for $198 or €168. The small bottle is 60 ml/ 2 oz and costs $330, while the large bottle is 3.4 oz/ 100 ml and costs $590. However, you can also buy Opardu as part of a sample Gift Set of four Puredistance perfumes (Opardu, I, Antonia, and M) with each sample being 2 ml. The whole set costs $59 and includes free shipping. Opardu is also available from Luckyscent in all available sizes at the same price (but without free shipping), along with a 0.7 ml sample vial for $6. In the UK, Puredistance fragrances are available at Roja Dove’s Haute Parfumerie division on the 5th floor of Harrods. Elsewhere, you can use Puredistance’s Store Locator which lists retailers from Australia and New Zealand to Austria and Russia. Surrender to Chance also sells it and prices start at $3.99 for a small 1/4 of ml vial, $7.98 for a 1/2 vial and $15.96 for 1 ml.

Perfume News – The Fragrance Foundation’s 2013 FiFi Awards: List of Finalists

Posted on April 5, 2013 by Kafkaesque

CaFleureBon (“CFB”) has just posted the names of all the FiFi perfume award finalists for 2013. For those who aren’t aware, the FiFis (or, as they are now known, The Fragrance Foundation) awards honour perfume in different categories, much like the Oscars.

To quote Wikipedia, “The FiFi Awards are an annual event sponsored by The Fragrance Foundation which honor the fragrance industry’s creative achievements and is the most prominent and prestigious celebratory event of the fragrance industry. These awards have been held annually in New York City since 1973 and are attended by around 1,000 members of the international fragrance community, designers and celebrities from the fashion, theatre, film, or television industries.” So, just like the Oscars celebrate the prior year in movie-making, the Fragrance Foundation will recognize perfumery from 2012 with their 2013 finalists and awards.

Relying on a report from Women’s Wear Daily, CFB writes that

[t]he top five finalists in each category will be announced at the Finalist Breakfast, April 19 ,2013 at the Mandarin Oriental. The winners will be named at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2013 on June 12 at Alice Tully Hall in Lincoln Center.The event, hosted this year by actress Christine Baranski, will also honor Allure editor in chief, Linda Wells for her contributions to the fragrance industry.

The finalists are:

Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Luxury
ALIEN Essence Absolue by Thierry Mugler (Clarins Fragrance Group)
Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilée (Beauté Prestige International)
Bond No. 9 Central Park West (Laurice & Co./Bond No. 9 New York) Perfumer Laurent Le Guernec
Chanel Coco Noir Perfumer Jaques Polge
Florabotanica by Balenciaga Paris (Coty Prestige)
Gucci Premiere (P&G Prestige Products)
Hermès L’Ambre Des Merveilles (Beauté Prestige International) Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena
Jivago Rose Gold (Ilana Jivago Inc.)
Miss Dior Le Parfum by Dior
Tom Ford Café Rose by Tom Ford Beauty Perfumer Antoine Lie

Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Prestige
Coach Poppy Blossom by Aramis & Designer Fragrances (The Estée Lauder Companies)
Dahlia Noir EDT (LVMH Fragrance Brands)
Dolce and Gabbana Pour Femme (P&G Prestige Products)
DOT Marc Jacobs (Coty Prestige)
Issey Miyake Pleats Please (Beauté Prestige International)
Jimmy Choo Eau De Toilette (Interparfums Luxury Brands)
La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain
L.I.L.Y by Stella McCartney
MARCHESA parfum d’extase by Sephora Perfumer Annie Buzantian
Midnight Fleur by NEST Fine Fragrances Perfumer Jerome Epinette

Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Popular
Christina Aguilera Red Sin (P&G Prestige Products)
Forever Red by Bath & Body Works
GAP Established 1969 (Inter Parfums USA)
Halle Berry Closer (Coty Beauty)
Justin Bieber’s Girlfriend (Elizabeth Arden)
Pink Friday Nicki Minaj (Elizabeth Arden)
Seduction Dark Orchid by Victoria’s Secret
So Elixir Purple (Yves Rocher Amérique du Nord inc.)
Unplugged for Her (Avon Products, Inc.)
Victorinox Swiss Army (Victoria Victorinox Swiss Army, Inc.)

Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Luxury
Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilée (Beauté Prestige International)
Bond No. 9 New York Musk (Laurice & Co./Bond No.9 New York) Perfumer Laurent Le Guernec
Colonia Intensa Oud by Acqua Di Parma
Ermenegildo Zegna Essenze Italian Bergamot by Aramis & Designer Fragrances (The Estée Lauder Companies)

Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Prestige
Acqua di Giò Essenza by Giorgio Armani Perfumer Alberto Morillas
Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême
Code Ultimate by Giorgio Armani
Dolce & Gabbana the one for men Sport (P&G Prestige Products)
ENCOUNTER Calvin Klein (Coty Prestige)
Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge (P&G Prestige Products)
Montblanc Legend (Interparfums Luxury Brands)
Play Sport by Parfums Givenchy
Spice Bomb by Viktor & Rolf Perfumer Olivier Polge
Tom Ford Noir (Tom Ford Beauty)

Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Popular
GAP Established 1969 (Inter Parfums USA)
James Bond 007 (P&G Prestige Products)
Paris for Men by Bath & Body Works
Perry Ellis Aqua (Falic Fashion Group)
Playboy VIP for Him (Coty)
ROCKS by Original Penguin (Falic Fashion Group)
Unplugged for Him (Avon Products, Inc.)

Best Packaging of the Year: Women’s
Amazon Lily by NEST Fine Fragrances
Betsy Johnson Too Too Pretty (Inter Parfums USA)
Brooks Brothers Miss Madison (Inter Parfums USA)
Chanel Coco Noir
Donna Karan Woman by Aramis & Designer Fragrances (The Estée Lauder Companies)
Flora Garden by Gucci (P&G Prestige Products)
Florabotanica by Balenciaga Paris (Coty Prestige)
Gucci Premiere (P&G Prestige Products)
Issey Miyake Pleats Please (Beauté Prestige International)
Pink Friday Nicki Minaj (Elizabeth Arden)

Best Packaging of the Year: Men’s (due to a tie there are 11 finalists)
Acqua di Giò Essenza by Giorgio Armani
Bond No. 9 New York Musk (Laurice & Co./Bond No.9 New York)
Code Ultimate by Giorgio Armani
Dolce & Gabbana the one for men Sport (P&G Prestige Products)
Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Sport (Beauté Prestige International)
James Bond 007 (P&G Prestige Products)
Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge (P&G Prestige Products)
Montblanc Legend (Interparfums Luxury Brands)
Playboy VIP for Him (Coty)
Unplugged for Him (Avon Products, Inc.)
Victorinox Swiss Army Forest ( Victorinox Swiss Army, Inc.)

Media Campaign of the Year: Women’s
Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme (P&G Prestige Products)
Donna Karan Woman by Aramis & Designer Fragrances (The Estée Lauder Companies)
Gucci Premiere (P&G Prestige Products)
Issey Miyake Pleats Please (Beauté Prestige International)
J’adore by Dior
Justin Bieber’s Girlfriend (Elizabeth Arden)
Lady Gaga FAME (Coty)
Pink Friday Nicki Minaj (Elizabeth Arden)
Victoria’s Secret Angel Gold (Victoria’s Secret)
Wonderstruck Enchanted Taylor Swift (Elizabeth Arden)

Media Campaign of the Year: Men’s
Acqua di Giò Essenza by Giorgio Armani
Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême
Code Ultimate by Giorgio Armani
Dolce & Gabbana the one for men Sport (P&G Prestige Products)
ENCOUNTER Calvin Klein (Coty Prestige)
Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Sport (Beauté Prestige International)
James Bond 007 (P&G Prestige Products)
Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge (P&G Prestige Products)
Montblanc Legend (Interparfums Luxury Brands)

Interior Scent Collection of the Year
AERIN Home Fragrance Collection by NEST Fragrances
After Midnight Candle Collection by NEST Fragrances
Cider Lane Home Fragrance Collection by Bath & Body Works
i.relax Aroma Diffuser by Oregon Scientific
R. Nichols Candle Collection by R. Nichols Candles
Ralph Lauren Home Fragrance Collection by Maesa
Sa Majesté La Rose by Belle Fleur New York
The American Boardwalk Candle Collection by Bath & Body Works

Bath & Body Line of the Year
Crabtree & Evelyn West Indian Lime by Crabtree & Evelyn
Forever Red by Bath & Body Works
Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Sport (Beauté Prestige International)
PINK wild & breezy by Victoria’s Secret

Fragrance Hall of Fame
A*MEN by Thierry Mugler (Clarins Fragrance Group)
Annick Goutal Petite Chérie (Beauté Prestige International)
Jivago 24K (Ilana Jivago Inc.)
Red Door by Elizabeth Arden

(source: Women’s Wear Daily)

NICHE/INDIE perfumes:

I should add that the 2013 FiFi award finalists for the niche “Indie” category were announced long ago and consisted of the following fragrances:

”Indie” is defined as an established brand that has been on the market for at least two years, is not distributed or owned by a large company and is sold in one to 50 stores in the U.S.

The official 30 Indie fragrance nominees recognized by The Fragrance Foundation and the Indie committee are:

Amber Oud by Kilian (By Kilian Inc.)
Boutonnière No. 7—Arquiste Parfumeur (Arquiste Parfumeur)
Bowmakers by D.S. & Durga (D.S. & Durga)
Broderie by Hayari Paris (Hayari Paris)
“Calling All Angels” April Aromatics (April Aromatics)
Cuirelle—Ramon Monegal Barcelona (Ramon Monegal Perfumes Barcelona)
Eau de Flog, Opus Oils (Opus Oils)
Eau Monumentale by Thirdman (Third Man Inc.)
Edward Bess “Eau La La” (Edward Bess)
Glam Monster (Donato Style LLC)
Ineke Hothouse Flower (Ineke LLC)
Intimacy eau de parfum (JoAnne Bassett)
Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile (Maria Candida Gentile)
Le Cherche Midi No. 30 Eau D’Hive (Le Cherche Midi)
“Le Smoking” for Denver Art Museum (DSH Perfumes)
Lightscape Ulrich Lang New York (Ulrich Lang New York)
Meadow & Fir—Phoenix Botanicals (Phoenix Botanicals)
Moss Gown—Providence Perfume Co. (Providence Perfume Co.)
Purusa Root by Sebastian Signs (Sebastian Signs Fragrances Company LLC)
Qajar Rose—Lalun Naturals, Inc. (Parfums Lalun, Lalun Naturals, Inc.)
Raw Spirit”Firetree” Fragrance Oil (World Senses Pty Ltd.)
Rima XI—Carner Barcelona (Carner Barcelona)
Rodin, L. Rodin, LLC (Rodin Olio Lusso)
Speakeasy by P. Frapin & Cie (P. Frapin & Cie)
Strawberry Passion by Skye Botanicals (Skye Botanicals)
Terrasse A St-Germain, Jul et Mad (Jul et Mad)
Trayee, Neela Vermeire Creation (Neela Vermeire Creations)
Treazon by Ayala Moriel Parfums (Ayala Moriel Parfums)
Wild Roses by Aftelier Perfumes (Aftelier Perfumes)
Woody by Smell Bent (Smell Bent)

The winner was announced on January 28, 2013 and was By Kilian’s Amber Oud.

New Perfume Releases: Volume 5 – April 4, 2013

Posted on April 4, 2013 by Kafkaesque

Welcome to another compilation of the latest perfumes that are either already out on the market, or that will be soon. As always, I will try to cover both men and women’s fragrances, niche and mass-market. So, yes, it will be long (very long!), but feel free to just scroll through to whatever interests you. All posts are taken via Now Smell This (“NST”), Fragrantica or some other cited source. Most of the sites have some discussion of the fragrance in question so, if you’re interested in further details, be sure to check out the original listing.

There are very few new niche fragrances coming out, beyond those previously covered. For the most part, there are just mainstream releases and additional flankers to existing fragrances, along with a number of limited-edition perfumes. Some of the many houses on the list for this post are Hermès, Byredo, Guerlain, Olfactive Studio, Carolina Herrera, Viktor & Rolf, Cacharel, M. Micallef, Marc Jacobs, Dior, DSH Perfumes, Diptyque, Judith Lieber, Jo Malone and Boucheron.

HERMÈS:

CaFleureBon reports the addition of two new Jean-Claude Ellena cologne fragrances for Hermès. The two fragrances just came out on April 1, 2013 and are as follows:

Eau de Narcisse Bleu

” A creation made with complete freedom in which I particularly wanted to express the tactile nature of the raw material”. Jean-Claude Ellena.

A distinct contemporary writing style with notes of narcissus, orange blossom, woods, galbanum.

Eau de Mandarine Ambrée

” I don’t know of a more cheerful smell than Mandarin, and a more velvety one than amber” – Jean-Claude Ellena

Reinventing its classic connection to citrus fruits Mandarine Ambrée brings a cheeky yet gentle vitality to the genre of colognes

Notes: green mandarin, passion fruit, amber.

The perfumes cost $125 for 100 ml and $165 for 200 ml. They were released April 1st at Hermes retailers and boutiques, as well as online at www.hermes.com.

MARC JACOBS:

Honey Marc Jacobs Now Smell This reports a new flanker fragrance to Marc Jacobs’ Dot. The perfume is called Honey and will be released in July 2013. According to the press release quoted by NST, Honey was developed by perfumer Annie Buzantian and will be a “fresh, floral” fragrance. Further details are available at the site but, if you’re interested in the notes, they include

pear, fruity punch, mandarin, orange blossom, peach, honeysuckle, honey, vanilla and woods.

Marc Jacobs Honey will be available in 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum sizes, along with matching lotions and body products.

CACHAREL:

In April 2013, Cacharel will release a flanker to Amor Amor called Amor Amor in a Flash. Fragrantica says it will be a limited edition scent for 2013, so I don’t know how long it will remain after the year’s end. Other details:

The new scent is inspired by the sensations of first kiss after a forbidden love, love at first sight and all the other moments that accelerate your pulse.

The composition is bold, youthful and fresh oriental-fruity, perfect for spring. It opens with fruity aromas of apricot and red apple. Delicate jasmine petals blend with sensual and spicy tones of cinnamon in the heart, laid on the base of sandalwood and sweet caramel.

Top notes: red apple, apricot
Heart: jasmine, cinnamon
Base: sandalwood, caramel

The fragrance is available from April 2013 as 30 and 50 ml Eau de Toilette.

NEELA VERMEIRE CREATIONS:

As stated in the full press release I posted here, Neela Vermeire Créations will release a new perfume in Autumn 2013 called Ashoka. It is a tribute to a legendary Indian emperor:

His own evolution from ruthless conqueror to benevolent emperor is reflected in Ashoka’s journey from the fierce opening to a softly floral heart & the gentle embrace of its richly complex drydown.

Notes: fig leaves, leather, white and pink lotus, mimosa, fig milk, osmanthus, rose, water hyacinth, vetiver, styrax, incense, sandalwood, myrrh, tonka bean, and fir balsam.

In addition to the new perfume, Neela Vermeire will also be offering the fantastic Mohur from her existing India series in a new, higher concentration form. The original Mohur — which I loved and which I reviewed here — is an eau de parfum. Now, Neela Vermeire Créations will also offer Mohur in extrait de parfum concentration. It will come “in the original flacon in amethyst glass with a special panache spray.”

GUERLAIN:

Guerlain Flora Rosa NST reports that Guerlain has launched Flora Rosa, this year’s travel retail exclusive addition to the Aqua Allegoria line. This year’s “regular” entry to the series is Nerolia Bianca; last year’s travel retail scent was Bouquet de Mai.

Flora Rosa is the new fruity floral Travel Retail exclusive fragrance. The spirit of rose and red berries is associated with white musks offering a powdery floral scent. Additional notes include iris.

Guerlain Flora Rosa is available in 75 ml Eau de Toilette. Check your international duty-free stores for availability.

There are also more details available on the Guerlain limited-edition Muguet perfume for 2013 that I wrote about in the prior New Releases post. A small snippet from the full Fragrantica article on it is as follows:

To honor this rite of the season, Jean Paul Guerlain was inspired to offer its own lily of the valley fragrance, Muguet. The fragrance gained a cult following which brought its own tradition of having the it available once a year for a limited time only. Le Muguet is offered as a token of luck, the promise of making the most of each moment. Lively, green and capricious, this fragrance heralds the arrival of spring.

The edition of Le Muguet for 2013 will be presented on April 25th as an early spring gift. In-house perfumer Thierry Wasser mingled notes of lily of the valley (i.e. muguet) in the heart with fragrance chords constructed around freshly cut roses and rich jasmine in a composition that aims to combine freshness with elegance.

The new edition comes in the “quadrilobe” flacon, a design invented in the early 20th century. The pale green bottle has its neck encircled by pale green silk cord, the ends decorated with the initials G, standing for Guerlain, and a papier mache applique on the front depicting in relief lily of the valley blossoms. The final touch is a pear bulb atomiser which turns this fragrance into a retro-looking feminine accouterment.

Available at Guerlain boutiques and Guerlain “espaces” on April 25th, 2013.

I should add that the price for the Muguet is, like for all of Guerlain’s limited-edition Muguet perfumes, very high. I’ve read it is €400 in Europe. In the U.S., Bergdorf Goodman will be selling it for $575 for the 60 ml bottle. It is already listed there, though not yet available for purchase until April 25th.

PARFUMS VIKTORIA MINYA:

Hedonist, the first perfume from the Indie Paris perfume house of Parfums Viktoria Minya was just released, complete with a stunning bottle that features 500 Bohemian crystals inside the juice. I’ve already tried the perfume, reviewed it and loved it. Nonetheless, here are the details from the press release:

Source: Viktoria Minya.

Hedonist, the first fragrance in the Viktoria Minya line, calls upon the spirit of hedonism – the art of devotion to the pleasure of the senses. Indeed, this bold creation’s aim is to provide a prolonged sense of indulgence to its wearer. The perfume is not only an enchanting olfactory experience, but an overall celebration of the infinite delight of the senses. To delight the sense of sight, this unique and heady scent is artfully presented within a beautifully crafted bottle filled with hundreds of genuine bohemian crystals that sparkle brilliantly, suspended within a divine golden liquid. To delight the sense of touch, the bottle itself is enclosed within a handmade wooden box fashioned to capture the sleek look and feel of snakeskin leather.

Designed for the woman who dares to be true to her desires, Hedonist is a richly provocative fragrance that combines the sweetness of love with the power of lust. Lush floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom absolute flirt with the dark intensity of rum absolute and the subtle spiciness of the world’s finest woods for a scent that is as captivating as it is unforgettable.

The notes feature rum, bergamot, peach, jasmine, orange blossom, osmanthus, vetiver, cedar, vanilla and tobacco.

Viktoria Minya Hedonist is €130 (about $168) for 45 ml Eau de Parfum, and can be purchased at the brand website, which also provides a sample (for about $6) with free shipping to anywhere in the world. And, again, here is a link to my review of it, if you’re interested.

BYREDO:

CaFleureBon has details on a new perfume from Byredo founder and nose, Ben Gorham, called Inflorescence. The site explains that:

the name is an actual word; an inflorescence is a group or cluster of flowers arranged on a stem that is composed of a main branch or a complicated arrangement of branches.

According to the press release, ‘Inflorescence, is an Arcadian stroll through untamed bowers of full-blown, rambling roses, interspersed by the intoxicating, honeyed notes of pink freesias in their prime. Two of Spring’s very first flowers lie at the heart; the creamy-soft allure of the Magnolia blossom, its petals fully open about to drop onto beds of quivering Lily of the Valley or ‘May Bells’ –in the language of flowers, symbolic of a ‘return to happiness’ and the joy associated with the onset of spring”.

CaFleureBon’s Perfumer of the Year 2012, Jerome Epinette of Robertet, created Inflorescence and in an unusual composition, Jasmine is at the base.

Top: Rose Petals, Pink Freesia

Heart: Magnolia, Lily Of The Valley

Base: Jasmine

Available at Byredo.com 100ml EDP/ $220.

BOUCHERON:

Boucheron has released new, limited-edition flankers of two of its fragrances. Now Smell This has the full details:

Boucheron Jaïpur Bracelet limited edition

Boucheron has launched summer limited editions of 2012′s Jaïpur Bracelet … and 1997′s Jaïpur Homme….

Jaïpur Bracelet Limited Edition ~ “Jaipur Bracelet Summer opens with the vividness of a melange of fruits, sweet and juicy. In the heart, an exotic floral-fruity accord creates a voluptuous yet playful feel, while the a precious dry down of woody notes counterbalances the sweetness beautifully.” With notes of mandarin, red currant, raspberry, rose, lychee, woods and orris. Available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

Boucheron Jaïpur Homme limited edition

Jaïpur Homme Limited Edition

~ a woody aquatic interpretation of the original, with cantaloupe, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla and amber wood. Available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

VIKTOR & ROLF:

Viktor & Rolf will be releasing a special anniversary version of its Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose flanker to Flowerbomb. So, in essence, a flanker to the flanker. It will be called Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose 2013. Fragrantica explains:

In 2013 Viktor & Rolf celebrates the fifth birthday of the fragrance Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose with a new edition Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose 2013.

This sparkling scent is a lighter and fresher version of the famous original Flowerbomb, designed for the summer season. The scent is made with the intent to improve your mood and to bring positive vibes. The explosion of vivid notes this time comes in light coral colors and a luminescent pearly bottle.

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper, green tea

Heart: lily of the valley, rose, sugared almond, raspberry, red forest berries

Base: patchouli, cashmere, amber

It is available as 50 ml Eau de Toilette, limited edition.

M. MICALLEF & DURAND PARFUMS:

Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef CaFleureBon announced the collaboration between the French niche luxury house, M. Micallef, and Denis Durand, “the French couture designer known for his glamorous designs using opulent fabrics and Swarovski crystals.” The perfume is called Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef and one CFB editor described it as “a purring slinky beast of a fragrance and one of the best perfumes Mme Micallef has ever made.” Further details:

Through their close friendship and artistic cooperation, Martine Micallef and Denis Durand created a glamorous and sophisticated perfume; it is the first fragrance under the M. Durand label.

The flacon is drool worthy and I don’t care if you think bottles don’t matter, but it is stunning … hand sewn delicate Chantilly black lace adorned with a little satin bow and a golden medal with the initials of the two artists.

Head Notes: Ceylon cinnamon, Italy tangerine

Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, orange blossoms, honey and animalis (oud?)

Base Notes: sandalwood, patchouly, amber and white musk.

50 ml EDP/ Retail price: $190

April 2013 at Osswald NYC and will be rolled out to American stockists in May

CFB Editor’s Note: I have just learned that animalis is not oud but an accord containing labdanum & castoreum. There is no oud in this fragrance 3/28/2013

ORIFLAME:

In May 2013, Oriflame will release a rose scent called Rose of Dreams. Fragrantica has more details:

Perfumer Alexis Dadier constructed the composition of Rose of Dreams out of queen rose and truffle notes, which decorate the composition. He wanted to place the most beautiful flowers of May rose in the center of attention, as prominent as gems in perfume palette. Rich May rose aromas are surrounded with a trail of black truffles, which are valued highly in perfumery and are called “black diamonds.”

notes: May rose, truffles

JUDITH LIEBER:

Judith Lieber is releasing a new perfume in April called Exotic Coral. The Moodie Report has the details:

Described as an oriental, fruity floral fragrance, Exotic Coral was developed by Firmenich and will be available from April.

Top notes include clementine, key lime, rum, and sea breeze accord, while the heart is composed of jasmine, violet leaves and Tiare flower. Base notes comprise sandalwood, coconut milk and heliotrope.

Exotic Coral has a suggested retail price of US$140 for the 75ml and US$95 for the 40ml.

JO MALONE:

Jo Malone has a limited edition fragrance coming out in May called Osmanthus Blossom. NST has the details:

Jo Malone will launch Osmanthus Blossom, a new limited edition fragrance, in May.

The notes feature petitgrain, osmanthus and cashmere wood.

Jo Malone Osmanthus Blossom will be available in 30 and 100 ml Cologne.

The Moodie Report adds:

The juice – described as delicately exotic – opens with a note of petitgrain, atop a heart of Osmanthus blossom, which leads to a base of cashmere wood.

The Osmanthus Blossom Collection is available as a 30ml and 100ml Cologne. It can be worn alone, or is ideal for Fragrance Combining™ with Blackberry & Bay, to add a “tart, verdant depth” or Nectarine Blossom & Honey to amplify the sweetness.

DSH PERFUMES (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz):

Now Smell This reports the release of a new fragrance, Iridum, from the Indie perfume line DSH Perfumes or Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, along with new interpretations of existing fragrances:

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz flacon

Indie line Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has launched Iridum, a new fragrance in the Secrets of Egypt collection. New interpretations of three prior fragrances from the original 2010 set, Antiu, Keni and Megaleion, have also been released.

According to the press release quoted, Iridum is nearly all botanical but “some stylistic liberties were taken in the form of new materials to render a gorgeous, woody / incense Orris that is chic, more modern than earthy, and quite universal (unisex).” You can read further details on NST but, in terms of pricing, “Iridum is available in 10 and 30 ml Eau de Toilette ($48/$115) and in 1 dram or 5 ml Parfum; samples are also available.”

DIPTYQUE:

In February, the French niche perfume house of Diptyque released a new spring scent, called L’Eau du Trente-Quatre, a variation on 2011′s 34 Boulevard Saint Germain. Now Smell This has the details from the company (and, now, also a review of the fragrance which you can find linked at the site):

For spring 2013, diptyque introduces L’Eau du Trente-Quatre. The sophisticated and versatile new scent is a reminder of the company’s very first fragrance: l’Eau. a lively interpretation of the original 34 boulevard saint germain, the new fragrance captures the essence of the original boutique, during the time when the weather changes and the greenest notes take over from the warmer and more sensual notes of 34 boulevard saint germain. “Men and women of all ages will be able to associate themselves with this new scent. This time, the aromatic notes, rosemary, clove and blackcurrant play a muted tune.

Thanks to the citrus fruits, L’Eau du Trente-Quatre is comfortable and timeless,” states [perfumer] Olivier Pescheux. The top notes include a flight of bitter orange, verbena, lemon, grapefruit, and lavender, spiced up with a dash of nutmeg, juniper berries and cinnamon tree leaves. a green note green note of birch tree leaf, from Philosykos adds a lively freshness to the fragrance. The heart is structured around Egyptian geranium, voluptuous tuberose on a base of Virginian cedarwood, patchouli, a splash of incense and Spanish cist [sic]. Lastly, bright musks balance the fragrance with just the right amount of mellowness and sensuality.

Diptyque L’Eau du Trente-Quatre is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

DIOR:

Christian Dior Addict Eau Délice Dior is releasing a summer flanker to its popular Addict line of fragrances. This one will be called Addict Eau Délice. Now Smell This has what few details are currently available:

The new fragrance for women is the latest flanker to 2002′s Addict, and follows last year’s Addict Eau Sensuelle and Addict Eau Fraiche.

The notes include cranberry, jasmine, ylang ylang and white musk.

Christian Dior Addict Eau Délice will be available in 20, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

CAROLINA HERRERA:

Now Smell This reports a new flanker from Carolina Herrera will be coming out, though no date is given as of yet. The perfume is called CH Eau de Parfum Sublime and is

Carolina Herrera CH Eau de Parfum Sublime

a new flanker to 2007′s Carolina Herrera CH. CH Eau de Parfum Sublime was reportedly inspired by the vintage fragrances of the 1920s.

Note for the floral chypre include bergamot, passion fruit, rose, orchid, moss, patchouli, leather and amber.

Carolina Herrera CH Eau de Parfum Sublime will be available in 80 ml.

OLFACTIVE STUDIO:

Out on the market is a new fragrance from the French niche house, Olfactive Studio, called Flash Back. The company is also making their existing line of fragrances available in new mini sizes in a boxed set. Now Smell This has the details on Flash Back:

The new fragrance was inspired by a photograph by Laurent Segretier.

A memory in motion and in action: that is also the magic and the raison d’être of Flash Back.

A tangy and vibrant fragrance, Flash Back is an olfactory reminiscence: tangy and slightly green rhubarb mixed with hesperides revives an enveloping childhood smell: that of rhubarb tart. A base note of vetiver and cedar give it woody sensuality.

Flash Back was developed by perfumer Olivier Cresp; additional notes include grapefruit, orange, pink pepper, apple, amber and musk.

Flash Back is a unisex fragrance that will be available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

Fragrantica has a brief review of Flash Back (which you can read here if you’re interested), but they also provide information on the new coffret offered for all of Olfactive Studio’s existing line of fragrances (Autoportrait, Chambre Noir, Flash Back (the latest fragrance from 2013), Lumiere Blanche and Still Life):

This collection combined the creator’s inspirations (Celine Verleure), art photography and the art and sensibility of various perfumers Celine collaborates with on developing each composition. […]

In Milan, Celine Verleure has her premier of a set of five fragrances (the entire collection) available in 5 ml flacons. For all fans of the collection, as well as for those who wish to test it, the new set is truly an excellent idea!

FRANCK BOCLET:

Lastly, there is a new perfume house founded by French fashion designer, Franck Boclet, who has worked for everyone from Francesco Smalto to Ungaro. According to Fragrantica, in 2011, he “decided to create a signature men’s fashion collection. It combines classics with rock rebellion and dresses this contrast with elements of Gothicism and laid-back casual-style.” This year, in 2013, he is launching four new fragrances — Patchouli, Oud, Leather and Incense — to go along with his clothing line. There is a long article on Fragrantica on the perfumes, but here are some highlights from the press release and perfume notes:

A man needs a scent matching his mood and appearance. There are always four color codes, four seasons and that’s why I offer four scents. I admire strong scents, which I use to commemorate important life events.

At first I’ve chosen Patchouli, the note I adore for so long, as the heart note for one of the scents. Then I thought about Oud—this unusual, strong, harsh and addictive note. Incense became the third; this is a more delicate aroma that displays discreetly its temper. And finally, the fourth scent is Leather because I like using leather for my wear and accessories collections. In order to develop and underline the beauty of each main accord we have precisely worked every scent with Fleuressence’s perfumer Melanie Leroux from Grass.

LEATHER:

Top notes:
Saffron, cumin, lemon;

Heart notes:
Rose, jasmine;

Base notes:
Leather, amber.

PATCHOULI:

Top notes:
Patchouli, cedar, sandalwood

Heart notes:
Amber, benzoin, tonka beans

Base notes:
Vanilla, white musk

OUD:

Top notes:
Ginger, cumin, clove;

Heart notes:
Oud

Base notes:
Cedar, patchouli.

INCENSE:

Top notes:
Cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper, pink Peruvian pepper,

Heart notes:
Benzoin

Base notes:
Guaiacum, sandalwood, ebony.

If you’re interested, you can read the mini-reviews and assessments for each fragrance at the Fragrantica link above (which also has a slide show of some of Boclet’s fashion). The perfumes will be distributed by Fragrance & Emotion but they are not listed on the site yet, nor do I have any pricing details at this time. However, I’ve read they will soon be available in high-end department stores and niche perfume retailers, as well as on-line.