New Perfume Releases: Volume 5 – April 4, 2013

Posted on April 4, 2013 by Kafkaesque

Welcome to another compilation of the latest perfumes that are either already out on the market, or that will be soon. As always, I will try to cover both men and women’s fragrances, niche and mass-market. So, yes, it will be long (very long!), but feel free to just scroll through to whatever interests you. All posts are taken via Now Smell This (“NST”), Fragrantica or some other cited source. Most of the sites have some discussion of the fragrance in question so, if you’re interested in further details, be sure to check out the original listing.

There are very few new niche fragrances coming out, beyond those previously covered. For the most part, there are just mainstream releases and additional flankers to existing fragrances, along with a number of limited-edition perfumes. Some of the many houses on the list for this post are Hermès, Byredo, Guerlain, Olfactive Studio, Carolina Herrera, Viktor & Rolf, Cacharel, M. Micallef, Marc Jacobs, Dior, DSH Perfumes, Diptyque, Judith Lieber, Jo Malone and Boucheron.

HERMÈS:

CaFleureBon reports the addition of two new Jean-Claude Ellena cologne fragrances for Hermès. The two fragrances just came out on April 1, 2013 and are as follows:

Eau de Narcisse Bleu

” A creation made with complete freedom in which I particularly wanted to express the tactile nature of the raw material”. Jean-Claude Ellena.

A distinct contemporary writing style with notes of narcissus, orange blossom, woods, galbanum.

Eau de Mandarine Ambrée

” I don’t know of a more cheerful smell than Mandarin, and a more velvety one than amber” – Jean-Claude Ellena

Reinventing its classic connection to citrus fruits Mandarine Ambrée brings a cheeky yet gentle vitality to the genre of colognes

Notes: green mandarin, passion fruit, amber.

The perfumes cost $125 for 100 ml and $165 for 200 ml. They were released April 1st at Hermes retailers and boutiques, as well as online at www.hermes.com.

MARC JACOBS:

Honey Marc Jacobs Now Smell This reports a new flanker fragrance to Marc Jacobs’ Dot. The perfume is called Honey and will be released in July 2013. According to the press release quoted by NST, Honey was developed by perfumer Annie Buzantian and will be a “fresh, floral” fragrance. Further details are available at the site but, if you’re interested in the notes, they include

pear, fruity punch, mandarin, orange blossom, peach, honeysuckle, honey, vanilla and woods.

Marc Jacobs Honey will be available in 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum sizes, along with matching lotions and body products.

CACHAREL:

In April 2013, Cacharel will release a flanker to Amor Amor called Amor Amor in a Flash. Fragrantica says it will be a limited edition scent for 2013, so I don’t know how long it will remain after the year’s end. Other details:

The new scent is inspired by the sensations of first kiss after a forbidden love, love at first sight and all the other moments that accelerate your pulse.

The composition is bold, youthful and fresh oriental-fruity, perfect for spring. It opens with fruity aromas of apricot and red apple. Delicate jasmine petals blend with sensual and spicy tones of cinnamon in the heart, laid on the base of sandalwood and sweet caramel.

Top notes: red apple, apricot
Heart: jasmine, cinnamon
Base: sandalwood, caramel

The fragrance is available from April 2013 as 30 and 50 ml Eau de Toilette.

NEELA VERMEIRE CREATIONS:

As stated in the full press release I posted here, Neela Vermeire Créations will release a new perfume in Autumn 2013 called Ashoka. It is a tribute to a legendary Indian emperor:

His own evolution from ruthless conqueror to benevolent emperor is reflected in Ashoka’s journey from the fierce opening to a softly floral heart & the gentle embrace of its richly complex drydown.

Notes: fig leaves, leather, white and pink lotus, mimosa, fig milk, osmanthus, rose, water hyacinth, vetiver, styrax, incense, sandalwood, myrrh, tonka bean, and fir balsam.

In addition to the new perfume, Neela Vermeire will also be offering the fantastic Mohur from her existing India series in a new, higher concentration form. The original Mohur — which I loved and which I reviewed here — is an eau de parfum. Now, Neela Vermeire Créations will also offer Mohur in extrait de parfum concentration. It will come “in the original flacon in amethyst glass with a special panache spray.”

GUERLAIN:

Guerlain Flora Rosa NST reports that Guerlain has launched Flora Rosa, this year’s travel retail exclusive addition to the Aqua Allegoria line. This year’s “regular” entry to the series is Nerolia Bianca; last year’s travel retail scent was Bouquet de Mai.

Flora Rosa is the new fruity floral Travel Retail exclusive fragrance. The spirit of rose and red berries is associated with white musks offering a powdery floral scent. Additional notes include iris.

Guerlain Flora Rosa is available in 75 ml Eau de Toilette. Check your international duty-free stores for availability.

There are also more details available on the Guerlain limited-edition Muguet perfume for 2013 that I wrote about in the prior New Releases post. A small snippet from the full Fragrantica article on it is as follows:

To honor this rite of the season, Jean Paul Guerlain was inspired to offer its own lily of the valley fragrance, Muguet. The fragrance gained a cult following which brought its own tradition of having the it available once a year for a limited time only. Le Muguet is offered as a token of luck, the promise of making the most of each moment. Lively, green and capricious, this fragrance heralds the arrival of spring.

The edition of Le Muguet for 2013 will be presented on April 25th as an early spring gift. In-house perfumer Thierry Wasser mingled notes of lily of the valley (i.e. muguet) in the heart with fragrance chords constructed around freshly cut roses and rich jasmine in a composition that aims to combine freshness with elegance.

The new edition comes in the “quadrilobe” flacon, a design invented in the early 20th century. The pale green bottle has its neck encircled by pale green silk cord, the ends decorated with the initials G, standing for Guerlain, and a papier mache applique on the front depicting in relief lily of the valley blossoms. The final touch is a pear bulb atomiser which turns this fragrance into a retro-looking feminine accouterment.

Available at Guerlain boutiques and Guerlain “espaces” on April 25th, 2013.

I should add that the price for the Muguet is, like for all of Guerlain’s limited-edition Muguet perfumes, very high. I’ve read it is €400 in Europe. In the U.S., Bergdorf Goodman will be selling it for $575 for the 60 ml bottle. It is already listed there, though not yet available for purchase until April 25th.

PARFUMS VIKTORIA MINYA:

Hedonist, the first perfume from the Indie Paris perfume house of Parfums Viktoria Minya was just released, complete with a stunning bottle that features 500 Bohemian crystals inside the juice. I’ve already tried the perfume, reviewed it and loved it. Nonetheless, here are the details from the press release:

Source: Viktoria Minya.

Hedonist, the first fragrance in the Viktoria Minya line, calls upon the spirit of hedonism – the art of devotion to the pleasure of the senses. Indeed, this bold creation’s aim is to provide a prolonged sense of indulgence to its wearer. The perfume is not only an enchanting olfactory experience, but an overall celebration of the infinite delight of the senses. To delight the sense of sight, this unique and heady scent is artfully presented within a beautifully crafted bottle filled with hundreds of genuine bohemian crystals that sparkle brilliantly, suspended within a divine golden liquid. To delight the sense of touch, the bottle itself is enclosed within a handmade wooden box fashioned to capture the sleek look and feel of snakeskin leather.

Designed for the woman who dares to be true to her desires, Hedonist is a richly provocative fragrance that combines the sweetness of love with the power of lust. Lush floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom absolute flirt with the dark intensity of rum absolute and the subtle spiciness of the world’s finest woods for a scent that is as captivating as it is unforgettable.

The notes feature rum, bergamot, peach, jasmine, orange blossom, osmanthus, vetiver, cedar, vanilla and tobacco.

Viktoria Minya Hedonist is €130 (about $168) for 45 ml Eau de Parfum, and can be purchased at the brand website, which also provides a sample (for about $6) with free shipping to anywhere in the world. And, again, here is a link to my review of it, if you’re interested.

BYREDO:

CaFleureBon has details on a new perfume from Byredo founder and nose, Ben Gorham, called Inflorescence. The site explains that:

the name is an actual word; an inflorescence is a group or cluster of flowers arranged on a stem that is composed of a main branch or a complicated arrangement of branches.

According to the press release, ‘Inflorescence, is an Arcadian stroll through untamed bowers of full-blown, rambling roses, interspersed by the intoxicating, honeyed notes of pink freesias in their prime. Two of Spring’s very first flowers lie at the heart; the creamy-soft allure of the Magnolia blossom, its petals fully open about to drop onto beds of quivering Lily of the Valley or ‘May Bells’ –in the language of flowers, symbolic of a ‘return to happiness’ and the joy associated with the onset of spring”.

CaFleureBon’s Perfumer of the Year 2012, Jerome Epinette of Robertet, created Inflorescence and in an unusual composition, Jasmine is at the base.

Top: Rose Petals, Pink Freesia

Heart: Magnolia, Lily Of The Valley

Base: Jasmine

Available at Byredo.com 100ml EDP/ $220.

BOUCHERON:

Boucheron has released new, limited-edition flankers of two of its fragrances. Now Smell This has the full details:

Boucheron Jaïpur Bracelet limited edition

Boucheron has launched summer limited editions of 2012′s Jaïpur Bracelet … and 1997′s Jaïpur Homme….

Jaïpur Bracelet Limited Edition ~ “Jaipur Bracelet Summer opens with the vividness of a melange of fruits, sweet and juicy. In the heart, an exotic floral-fruity accord creates a voluptuous yet playful feel, while the a precious dry down of woody notes counterbalances the sweetness beautifully.” With notes of mandarin, red currant, raspberry, rose, lychee, woods and orris. Available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

Boucheron Jaïpur Homme limited edition

Jaïpur Homme Limited Edition

~ a woody aquatic interpretation of the original, with cantaloupe, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla and amber wood. Available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

VIKTOR & ROLF:

Viktor & Rolf will be releasing a special anniversary version of its Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose flanker to Flowerbomb. So, in essence, a flanker to the flanker. It will be called Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose 2013. Fragrantica explains:

In 2013 Viktor & Rolf celebrates the fifth birthday of the fragrance Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose with a new edition Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose 2013.

This sparkling scent is a lighter and fresher version of the famous original Flowerbomb, designed for the summer season. The scent is made with the intent to improve your mood and to bring positive vibes. The explosion of vivid notes this time comes in light coral colors and a luminescent pearly bottle.

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper, green tea

Heart: lily of the valley, rose, sugared almond, raspberry, red forest berries

Base: patchouli, cashmere, amber

It is available as 50 ml Eau de Toilette, limited edition.

M. MICALLEF & DURAND PARFUMS:

Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef CaFleureBon announced the collaboration between the French niche luxury house, M. Micallef, and Denis Durand, “the French couture designer known for his glamorous designs using opulent fabrics and Swarovski crystals.” The perfume is called Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef and one CFB editor described it as “a purring slinky beast of a fragrance and one of the best perfumes Mme Micallef has ever made.” Further details:

Through their close friendship and artistic cooperation, Martine Micallef and Denis Durand created a glamorous and sophisticated perfume; it is the first fragrance under the M. Durand label.

The flacon is drool worthy and I don’t care if you think bottles don’t matter, but it is stunning … hand sewn delicate Chantilly black lace adorned with a little satin bow and a golden medal with the initials of the two artists.

Head Notes: Ceylon cinnamon, Italy tangerine

Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, orange blossoms, honey and animalis (oud?)

Base Notes: sandalwood, patchouly, amber and white musk.

50 ml EDP/ Retail price: $190

April 2013 at Osswald NYC and will be rolled out to American stockists in May

CFB Editor’s Note: I have just learned that animalis is not oud but an accord containing labdanum & castoreum. There is no oud in this fragrance 3/28/2013

ORIFLAME:

In May 2013, Oriflame will release a rose scent called Rose of Dreams. Fragrantica has more details:

Perfumer Alexis Dadier constructed the composition of Rose of Dreams out of queen rose and truffle notes, which decorate the composition. He wanted to place the most beautiful flowers of May rose in the center of attention, as prominent as gems in perfume palette. Rich May rose aromas are surrounded with a trail of black truffles, which are valued highly in perfumery and are called “black diamonds.”

notes: May rose, truffles

JUDITH LIEBER:

Judith Lieber is releasing a new perfume in April called Exotic Coral. The Moodie Report has the details:

Described as an oriental, fruity floral fragrance, Exotic Coral was developed by Firmenich and will be available from April.

Top notes include clementine, key lime, rum, and sea breeze accord, while the heart is composed of jasmine, violet leaves and Tiare flower. Base notes comprise sandalwood, coconut milk and heliotrope.

Exotic Coral has a suggested retail price of US$140 for the 75ml and US$95 for the 40ml.

JO MALONE:

Jo Malone has a limited edition fragrance coming out in May called Osmanthus Blossom. NST has the details:

Jo Malone will launch Osmanthus Blossom, a new limited edition fragrance, in May.

The notes feature petitgrain, osmanthus and cashmere wood.

Jo Malone Osmanthus Blossom will be available in 30 and 100 ml Cologne.

The Moodie Report adds:

The juice – described as delicately exotic – opens with a note of petitgrain, atop a heart of Osmanthus blossom, which leads to a base of cashmere wood.

The Osmanthus Blossom Collection is available as a 30ml and 100ml Cologne. It can be worn alone, or is ideal for Fragrance Combining™ with Blackberry & Bay, to add a “tart, verdant depth” or Nectarine Blossom & Honey to amplify the sweetness.

DSH PERFUMES (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz):

Now Smell This reports the release of a new fragrance, Iridum, from the Indie perfume line DSH Perfumes or Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, along with new interpretations of existing fragrances:

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz flacon

Indie line Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has launched Iridum, a new fragrance in the Secrets of Egypt collection. New interpretations of three prior fragrances from the original 2010 set, Antiu, Keni and Megaleion, have also been released.

According to the press release quoted, Iridum is nearly all botanical but “some stylistic liberties were taken in the form of new materials to render a gorgeous, woody / incense Orris that is chic, more modern than earthy, and quite universal (unisex).” You can read further details on NST but, in terms of pricing, “Iridum is available in 10 and 30 ml Eau de Toilette ($48/$115) and in 1 dram or 5 ml Parfum; samples are also available.”

DIPTYQUE:

In February, the French niche perfume house of Diptyque released a new spring scent, called L’Eau du Trente-Quatre, a variation on 2011′s 34 Boulevard Saint Germain. Now Smell This has the details from the company (and, now, also a review of the fragrance which you can find linked at the site):

For spring 2013, diptyque introduces L’Eau du Trente-Quatre. The sophisticated and versatile new scent is a reminder of the company’s very first fragrance: l’Eau. a lively interpretation of the original 34 boulevard saint germain, the new fragrance captures the essence of the original boutique, during the time when the weather changes and the greenest notes take over from the warmer and more sensual notes of 34 boulevard saint germain. “Men and women of all ages will be able to associate themselves with this new scent. This time, the aromatic notes, rosemary, clove and blackcurrant play a muted tune.

Thanks to the citrus fruits, L’Eau du Trente-Quatre is comfortable and timeless,” states [perfumer] Olivier Pescheux. The top notes include a flight of bitter orange, verbena, lemon, grapefruit, and lavender, spiced up with a dash of nutmeg, juniper berries and cinnamon tree leaves. a green note green note of birch tree leaf, from Philosykos adds a lively freshness to the fragrance. The heart is structured around Egyptian geranium, voluptuous tuberose on a base of Virginian cedarwood, patchouli, a splash of incense and Spanish cist [sic]. Lastly, bright musks balance the fragrance with just the right amount of mellowness and sensuality.

Diptyque L’Eau du Trente-Quatre is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

DIOR:

Christian Dior Addict Eau Délice Dior is releasing a summer flanker to its popular Addict line of fragrances. This one will be called Addict Eau Délice. Now Smell This has what few details are currently available:

The new fragrance for women is the latest flanker to 2002′s Addict, and follows last year’s Addict Eau Sensuelle and Addict Eau Fraiche.

The notes include cranberry, jasmine, ylang ylang and white musk.

Christian Dior Addict Eau Délice will be available in 20, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

CAROLINA HERRERA:

Now Smell This reports a new flanker from Carolina Herrera will be coming out, though no date is given as of yet. The perfume is called CH Eau de Parfum Sublime and is

Carolina Herrera CH Eau de Parfum Sublime

a new flanker to 2007′s Carolina Herrera CH. CH Eau de Parfum Sublime was reportedly inspired by the vintage fragrances of the 1920s.

Note for the floral chypre include bergamot, passion fruit, rose, orchid, moss, patchouli, leather and amber.

Carolina Herrera CH Eau de Parfum Sublime will be available in 80 ml.

OLFACTIVE STUDIO:

Out on the market is a new fragrance from the French niche house, Olfactive Studio, called Flash Back. The company is also making their existing line of fragrances available in new mini sizes in a boxed set. Now Smell This has the details on Flash Back:

The new fragrance was inspired by a photograph by Laurent Segretier.

A memory in motion and in action: that is also the magic and the raison d’être of Flash Back.

A tangy and vibrant fragrance, Flash Back is an olfactory reminiscence: tangy and slightly green rhubarb mixed with hesperides revives an enveloping childhood smell: that of rhubarb tart. A base note of vetiver and cedar give it woody sensuality.

Flash Back was developed by perfumer Olivier Cresp; additional notes include grapefruit, orange, pink pepper, apple, amber and musk.

Flash Back is a unisex fragrance that will be available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

Fragrantica has a brief review of Flash Back (which you can read here if you’re interested), but they also provide information on the new coffret offered for all of Olfactive Studio’s existing line of fragrances (Autoportrait, Chambre Noir, Flash Back (the latest fragrance from 2013), Lumiere Blanche and Still Life):

This collection combined the creator’s inspirations (Celine Verleure), art photography and the art and sensibility of various perfumers Celine collaborates with on developing each composition. […]

In Milan, Celine Verleure has her premier of a set of five fragrances (the entire collection) available in 5 ml flacons. For all fans of the collection, as well as for those who wish to test it, the new set is truly an excellent idea!

FRANCK BOCLET:

Lastly, there is a new perfume house founded by French fashion designer, Franck Boclet, who has worked for everyone from Francesco Smalto to Ungaro. According to Fragrantica, in 2011, he “decided to create a signature men’s fashion collection. It combines classics with rock rebellion and dresses this contrast with elements of Gothicism and laid-back casual-style.” This year, in 2013, he is launching four new fragrances — Patchouli, Oud, Leather and Incense — to go along with his clothing line. There is a long article on Fragrantica on the perfumes, but here are some highlights from the press release and perfume notes:

A man needs a scent matching his mood and appearance. There are always four color codes, four seasons and that’s why I offer four scents. I admire strong scents, which I use to commemorate important life events.

At first I’ve chosen Patchouli, the note I adore for so long, as the heart note for one of the scents. Then I thought about Oud—this unusual, strong, harsh and addictive note. Incense became the third; this is a more delicate aroma that displays discreetly its temper. And finally, the fourth scent is Leather because I like using leather for my wear and accessories collections. In order to develop and underline the beauty of each main accord we have precisely worked every scent with Fleuressence’s perfumer Melanie Leroux from Grass.

LEATHER:

Top notes:
Saffron, cumin, lemon;

Heart notes:
Rose, jasmine;

Base notes:
Leather, amber.

PATCHOULI:

Top notes:
Patchouli, cedar, sandalwood

Heart notes:
Amber, benzoin, tonka beans

Base notes:
Vanilla, white musk

OUD:

Top notes:
Ginger, cumin, clove;

Heart notes:
Oud

Base notes:
Cedar, patchouli.

INCENSE:

Top notes:
Cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper, pink Peruvian pepper,

Heart notes:
Benzoin

Base notes:
Guaiacum, sandalwood, ebony.

If you’re interested, you can read the mini-reviews and assessments for each fragrance at the Fragrantica link above (which also has a slide show of some of Boclet’s fashion). The perfumes will be distributed by Fragrance & Emotion but they are not listed on the site yet, nor do I have any pricing details at this time. However, I’ve read they will soon be available in high-end department stores and niche perfume retailers, as well as on-line.

Sale: “Surrender to Chance” Anniversary Sale & Sample Sets To Consider

Posted on April 3, 2013 by Kafkaesque

If any of you are interested in trying out some perfume, the sample site Surrender to Chance is having a sale where everything is 20% off for today only (April 3rd), then 15% off on April 4th, and finally 10% off for April 5th through April 7th. You have to use the applicable codes which I will list below and the rates/codes change as of Midnight EST (Eastern Standard Time).

The information I received in the email provides the codes and states:

We have loved serving you this past year, you make Surrender to Chance a joy for us every single day.

As a thank you, our Anniversary Sale starts NOW with the following codes!

20% discount April 3 until midnight EST with code ONEYEAR

15% discount April 4 until midnight EST with code CELEBRATE

10% discount April 5 through midnight EST April 7 with code ANNIVERSARY

From our deeply grateful, appreciative and sometimes skunky perfume scented homes to yours,

Patty, Lisa, Shirley, Diney, Kristin, Abby, Mike, Kelsey, Harry & Alex.

Website: Surrender to Chance.

The site has everything imaginable and the best shipping rates, in my opinion: $2.95 within the US (no matter how big or small your order). However, with the recent and giant rate increases by the US Postal Service for international shipping, Surrender to Chance has had to raise its international shipping charges to $12.95 for any orders under $150, and just a little bit higher for orders over $150.

This would be a great time to try out some niche perfumes, especially in sampler sets for things like Serge Lutens, Ormonde Jayne, Mona di Orio, Guerlain’s prestige lines, Chanel’s Exclusifs and more.

SAMPLE SETS YOU MAY WANT TO CONSIDER:

Below are links to various sample sets, sorted either by brand or by note, along with some good sets for beginners who are just starting to enter the world of perfumery. I will continue to update this list for a little while longer with additional sets and perfumes you may want to consider:

Luca Turin/Tania Sanchez’s Perfume Guide’s 4 & 5 star perfumes: Out of 200 perfumes, broken down into category, choose any 3 for $9.99 (or 2 orders of 3 for $18.98, 3 orders of 3 for….)

Same thing for just the top 5 star rated perfumes, divided by category or list.

Serge Lutens Non-Export Les Sompteaux Series with

Muscs Koublai Khan,
Cuir Mauresque (which I love), and
Ambre Sultan for $11.99. I have this set and I think it’s a good one, though the vials are the usual 1/2 ml for Lutens.

Serge Lutens 5 Fleurs Nobles Sampler Set for $19.99, from Tubereuse Criminelle to Rose de Nuit, Un Lys and more. Or, you can go for 8 Lutens Non-Export Floral fragrances (most of which are available here in the US, so don’t let the title put you off) for $26.99 and that includes the beautifully purple De Profundis carnation scent, among others.

Serge Lutens Non-Export Set of 3 for $11.50 with Borneo 1834, Chergui, and Fumerie Turque.

Serge Lutens Non-Export Pick Any Five Samples for $18.99.

Serge Lutens Les Eaux Boisees Series of 7 perfumes for $27.99, including Chene, Bois Oriental, Bois de Violette, Bois et Fruits, and more.

Serge Lutens Export Gateway Sampler Pack (4) for $15.00 including Ambre Sultan. Note, however, that they say 4 but only 3 perfumes are listed. I don’t know why.

All Serge Lutens with several pages to go through if you want to pick individually.

Chanel Pick 6 (with a large number of Les Exclusifs on the list) for $16.99.

Chanel’s Les Exclusifs set (minus the new 1932 which few people seemed to like much, including myself) for $36.99.

Tom Ford Private Blend Sample Set (any 5 out of the 23 with 1/2 ml vials) for $13.99: (this is a great price, I think, especially as it is discounted from $14.99, so you save a little more. But the vials are small.)

Tom Ford Private Blend Sample Set (19 of them in 1/2 ml vials) for $49.99.

Vanilla Niche Perfume Set of 20 for $52.99.

Amber – Comprehensive set of 20 niche classics – for $42.99.

Amber – Women’s Sample Set of 12 for $24.99 (and it includes my beloved Alahine!) or a Set of 5 not so interesting ones for $12.99.

Sex & Perfume – Pick 2 of any animalic scent from various houses like Amouage to Mona Di Orio, Nasomatto and more for $8.99. (Scroll to the bottom of their page for links to more perfumes that are meant to evoke your inner vamp or sexy side.)

Pick 10 out of 100 fragrances that “every perfumista must try” (their words, not mine) for $29.95.

The page with lists of various Oriental or Woody Oriental sets that they have.

Floral – Pick Your Flower – Spicy, Aldehydic, Woody & More – Pick 3 for $9.99.

The legendary Roja Dove’s recommendations of 10 scents from the past 100 years that he believes to be the true classics of their decade. Roja Dove’s recommendations of 10 in 1 ml vials each for $29.99.

More Roja Dove choices of “Classics through the Centuries” with Set 1, Set 2 and Set 3 of fragrances (with a gift box) that he thinks are legends. The sets have 13, 18 and 16 perfumes each, respectively, and are in the $24-$29 range.

3 of Roja Dove’s own perfumes — Scandal, Unspoken & Enslaved — for $11.49. (I’m sooooo getting this one!)

Puredistance perfumes starting at $3.99 each.

One of my absolute favorite boozy amber perfumes and which I just bought a full bottle of: Teo Cabanel’s Alahine starting at $3.99 for a vial.

Dior’s Privée line or, as they call it, Le Collection Couturier fragrances. The full Sampler set of 13 is $35.99 but you can also buy them individually starting at $3. Mitzah, Grand Bal, Patchouli Imperiale, Bois d’Argent, Rose Isphanan are all very popular.

Frederic Malle perfumes, along with a Gateway Sampler set of 3 for $16.49 or a set of 4 carded 2ml samples for $23.99.

Le Labo City Exclusives Sampler — a set of 6 (I think) for $19.99 but they are only 1/4 ml vials.

Sonoma Scent Studio — all perfumes listed along with various sample sets.

Amouage Library Collection Sampler of 6 for $19.99 (I was actually preparing a review of one of the Library collection and I think there may be a better sampler set for the size of the vials elsewhere for $30 but with this sale, you may want to opt for Surrender to Chance instead).

Amouage Women’s Sampler Set of 8 for $29.99.

Amouage Men’s Sampler for $22.99.

Ormonde Jayne Pick 3 Sample set for $10.99.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Sample Set of 8 for $19.99.

Guerlain Set of 4 Classics (in non-vintage, reformulated version) for $14.99 or Set of 7 for $19.99.

Guerlain niche L’Art et La Matiere Collection sampler set of 8 for $37.99

Guerlain’s niche Elixir Charnel Collection – sample set of all 4 predominantly gourmand fragrances in the line for $17.99. (This is a pretty good deal if you like gourmand fragrances.)

Guerlain’s niche Desert d’Orient Collection — all 3 fragrances in the line for $12.99.

Histoires de Parfums Sample Set of 5 for $22.99.

Arquiste Sampler Set – the full 7 perfumes in a set for $33.99.

Link to all of the perfumes by Andy Tauer of Tauer Perfumes but, alas, no sample sets.

Vera Profumo sample set of 3 for $12.99.

Orange Blossoms – Comprehensive Set of Luxury/High-End perfumes — 14 for $39.99.

M. Micallef Sample Set of 3 for $14.99.

Etat Libre d’Orange Sample Set of 5 for $18.99.

Robert Piguet La Nouvelle Collection Sample Set of 5 for $22.99.

CaFleureBon Scents of Seduction Editorial Sampler — 12 curated scents chosen by the editors of CFB for $29.99.

Oriental Fougère Set for Men — High End Luxury Sampler which includes a Clive Christian — 10 for $23.99 but they are 1/4 ml vials.

Parfums de Nicolaii (the Guerlain grand-daughter/niece) with any 3 of her perfumes for $9.99 but, be careful as not all of these are currently sold on her website since she seems to have opted for more “Intense” versions of some of them. However, things like the Fig, Vanilla Tonka, or New York fragrances are still there are quite popular.

Rose Perfumes – “9 breathtaking fragrances” for $36.99; a set of 7 Dark, Dirty niche Roses for $29.99; 6 Bulgarian Rose fragrances for $14.99; or a Beginner’s Set of 7 for $15.99

Patchouli Set of 11 Niche/High End and rich fragrances for $41.99, along with a small, somewhat boring Beginner’s set of 3 for $9.99 (though I do think the Serge Lutens is a good one). Intermediary Patchouli set of 9 niche fragrances for $28.99.

24 Best Perfume Masterpieces selected by the late, great Guy Roberts for $33.99. They’re not the vintage formulation but they’re a fantastic way to start on some legendary classics.

10 Best Niche Perfumes for a Beginner in 1/2 ml vials for $21.99. (It’s their list of what they think would be 10 good ones to start with.)

Chypres: A Beginner’s Guide to Oakmoss: 9 samples of the most famous Classics for $27.99.

Four whole pages of different sets for Beginners categorized by perfume note, from Amber to Saffron, peony to geranium.

– I’m not completely convinced on this next one but Perfume Posse selected 22 Classic and Niche Beginner Scents by type which are sold in a gift box for $44.99. I don’t think some of those would be on my Beginner Intro list, but I believe in giving people options.

Page with the overall categories of sample sets.

Perfume Review – Dior New Look 1947 (La Collection Privée)

Posted on April 2, 2013 by Kafkaesque

Names have weight and, in perfumery, can lead to certain expectations. In fashion, perhaps few names carry more of an instant iconography than Dior’s “New Look.” You see it right away: that famous silhouette, the exquisite clothes, and the spectacular black-and-white photography that often rose to the level of art. You see “New Look” and you associate it with the greatness that it reflects.

All of this may explain the lofty expectations for New Look 1947 and, perhaps, some of the subsequent disappointment. Critics claimed it was too insubstantial a floral, too abstract and sheer, and not worthy of such a great name.

Dior vintage 1950s ball gown.

I’m not immune to the expectations caused by symbolic names and, truth be told, New Look 1947 was not quite what I had expected. Then, I thought about it and I wondered: what did I expect? What really fits an iconic name and over-arching concept that encompasses so very much? The bottom line, to me, is that New Look 1947 is a very lovely, delicate, sometimes retro, airy, floral perfume and you may enjoy it a lot — especially if you just forget about the name and smell it.

Dior’s famous “Junon” dress.

New Look 1947 is part of Dior‘s prestige La Collection Privée line of perfumes. The line is sometimes called La Collection Couturier on places like Fragrantica and Surrender to Chance, but I will go with the name used by Dior itself on its website. The Privée line consists of fourteen perfumes that are exclusive to Dior boutiques (only one in the US, in Las Vegas) and to its website. The collection began in 2003 with three perfumes but, starting in 2010, the company added more fragrances to the line, and one of those was New Look 1947. All of them were intended to illustrate and celebrate the life of its founder, Christian Dior, and were created by François Demarchy, the artistic director and nose for Parfums Dior.

Dior categorizes the perfume as a “spicy floral” and puts its description in the context of the Dior history:

February 12, 1947: A major event was held at 30, avenue Montaigne in Paris, where Christian Dior presented his first fashion show. With his flower women and bright colors, the Designer launched a fresh fashion trend. “It’s a New Look!” exclaimed Carmel Snow, Editor-in-Chief at Harper’s Bazaar, thus christening the Designer’s inimitable style. Today, the New Look has become an explosive, generous, ultra-feminine and floral fragrance.

The notes for the fragrance, as compiled from Dior and other sources, include:

Ylang-ylang, Peony, Indian tuberose, Turkish rose, Jasmine sambac, Tuscan Iris, Siam Benzoin, and Madagascar Vanilla.

The first time I tried New Look 1947, I jotted down that its opening was “candy sweet florals” which reminded me of gummy drop sugared sweets. The second time I tried the perfume, I was perhaps a little more immune to the enormous sweetness and noticed the florals much more, writing how they were stunningly beautiful and of “astounding delicacy.” Both descriptions and experiences are true. New Look 1947’s opening is both incredibly sweet and incredibly lovely. Airy brushstrokes of ylang-ylang and jasmine vie with peony, sweet rose and the merest touch of tuberose — all on a base of creamy, custardy, rich vanilla. It’s as feminine and dainty as a gaggle of laughing, willowy geishas, walking on air.

Despite the airy weight of the florals, they are rich, strong and heady in those opening minutes. However, they are never indolic, sour, plastic-y or reminiscent of some of the more worrisome aspects of such indolic flowers as ylang-ylang and tuberose. There is nothing to evoke over-ripe decay or cat litter boxes. I suspect the incredible sweetness of the perfume is responsible, in part, for that.

Minutes later, the powdery iris pushes aside some of the creamier, heavier white flowers, undercutting their richness and adding a distinctly retro note to the perfume. New Look 1947 starts to take on slight lipstick undertones in its powdery, iris femininity. The perfume also starts to turn a little abstract which, in perfume terms, is a way to describe something of an amorphous nature. The florals all blend into one amorphous floral “whole” with few distinct parts that you can pick out and sitting atop a structure of iris powder and vanilla. The tuberose note was never as individually noticeable as the other flowers and, now, it is even less so. I hope that reassures those who are rather terrified of the note and its often indolic, over-ripe nature.

Forty minutes into the development of the perfume, I suddenly detect a quiet note of velvety peppered woods with a flickering aspect of rubbing alcohol. It is definitely, and without a doubt, ISO E Super, an aromachemical to which my nose has become particularly attuned in recent weeks. Here, it is far from over-powering and, thankfully, has nothing antiseptic, medicinal or shriekingly chemical about it. If you were to ignore that flickering, fleeting rubbing alcohol undertone that pops up every now and then, all you’d really feel is that the perfume has a velvety texture of soft woods underlying the creamy, powdery florals.

“Oval Motif in Grey and Ochre 1961” by Wendy Pasmore at the Tate Museum, London.

By the start of the second hour, New Look 1947 has softened to a sheer skin scent. The ISO E’s alcoholic, peppery note — light though it was — has vanished, leaving nothing but a delicate iris scent with amorphous florals, light powder, sweet vanilla, and a velvety feel. The powder is now light and subtle, which is my personal preference, and no longer redolent of old-fashioned lipsticks. There remains something that feels almost woody to the velvety undertones of the scent but it is light. The whole thing is incredibly sheer and gauzy, and, oddly, reminds me of some modernist paintings that entail abstract brush strokes or Jackson Pollack’s random splatterings of grey and white.

In its final hours, the perfume turns into a simple jasmine and iris floral with vanilla benzoin undertones. It’s nothing complicated and far from revolutionary — but I don’t think any of the Privée line were meant to be. They were meant to be well-crafted scents that evoke elegance and femininity in the classic tradition. New Look 1947 certainly succeeds in that endeavor.

The perfume’s sheerness and low sillage create the misleading impression that it is a vanishing scent. It is not, but it is a skin scent. I haven’t tried the full Privée line (yet), but I have the sense that they are all meant to be lightweight in feel, and elegantly unobtrusive in projection, while remaining for much longer than you’d expect. (The ambery-labdanum and incense Mitzah which I adore was the same way.) For something that is even lighter and gauzier than Mitzah, New Look 1947 was surprisingly persistent and lasted just short of 8 hours.

The sheerness of the scent seems to be one of the main reasons for the blogosphere’s disappointment with the perfume. Bois de Jasmin wrote:

Christian Dior New Look 1947 is one of my most disappointing and frustrating discoveries this year. I say it because I absolutely love the voluptuous idea of its tuberose and violet accord and the image of red lipstick glamor that it conveys. Yet on the skin, New Look 1947 feels far too soft spoken and sheer to fully deliver on its promise of bold elegance circa 1940s Paris. [¶] …Unfortunately as time goes on, New Look 1947 does not build up to any crescendo and simply fades into a vague powdery floral. My hope is that Dior might consider releasing it as the extrait de parfum. Such a beautiful idea certainly deserves to make a grander statement.

A passionate defense of New Look 1947 was mounted by Octavian Coifan, the acclaimed blogger of 1000 Fragrances, who wrote that the perfume was actually the perfect, symbolic embodiment of the New Look:

New Look 1947, the new exclusive fragrance from “La Collection Couturier Parfumeur” is Dior’s parfum lingerie, the New Nude Look with a grège scent: the softness of “purple gray” orris and the creaminess of “apricot beige” white flowers. It is built on a similar idea with J’adore l’Or – an infinite smoothness of flowers melting into an abstract note,very distant from the figurative depiction of a flower or the representation of a specific bouquet. Like Chanel No5, this perfume is the abstraction of an imaginary feminine scent, it is that “je ne sais quoi”.

… [I]t is less the idea of a specific perfume type and more the concept of a presence, delicate and fragile. It is a skinscent, but not the musky type. It’s again a parfum lingerie that evokes the Dior 1947 backstage before the unique fashion show that changed the world of fashion for ever: soft shoulders, wasp waist, bosom padded for extra curve, hips that swelled and rustling skirts. We have here the scents of make up, lipstick, face powder, the scent of silk lingerie. [Emphasis in the original.]

“The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957” by Claire Wilcox. Available on Amazon.com

I agree with him, for the most part. I think New Look 1947 is supposed to represent an abstraction, a compilation of femininity. I’m not sure about all the lingerie bits and, personally, I perceive the perfume representing the Dior ballgown as much as the silken slips, but I do think New Look 1947 represents the fundamental essence of the new fashion. Dior’s clothes in that Golden Age of haute design were all about an abstract idea of hyper-femininity in hues of dove grey, white, light iris-y blue and soft, dusty rose. People focus on the opulence, shape and size of the clothes with their yards of luxurious fabric, but the real key was the return to “fairytale” femininity after the bleakness of wartime and the government-imposed austerity of the postwar years. Abstract sheerness and amorphous tones of white, grey and lilac iris certainly make New Look 1947 part of the Dior tradition.

Ultimately, all of this is esoteric, unnecessary, intellectualism and wankery. The critics can argue about sheerness, symbolism and abstractism, but the bottom line is whether the perfume smells good, not whether it lives up to some marketing name. And it does smell good. If you like very sweet, airy, gauzy, florals with some powder and vanilla, then you really must try New Look 1947. Period.

It may be particularly ideal for those who like extremely unobtrusive perfumes. The soft sillage but good longevity makes it perfect for the office, but I think the perfume is extremely versatile as a whole. You must, however, like florals that are very sweet at first and, then, later, somewhat powdery. If you prefer more powerful fragrances, I think you may be disappointed. This is not a diva or statement perfume — not even remotely. Lastly, those with acute sensitivity to ISO E Super may want to skip this one; I have absolutely no doubt it’s there. The quantity of the aromachemical is extremely low, but anything may be too much for those who get headaches from it in any amount.

The general problem with New Look 1947 may be something else altogether: the size of the bottles. They are just enormous! The smallest bottle clocks in at 4.25 fl oz or 125 ml. Most perfumes start at 1.7 oz or 50 ml, going up to 3.4 oz or 100 ml in the large size. Dior’s largest bottle is an enormous 8.5 fl. oz or 450 ml! More than four times as large! Per ounce, they are far, far cheaper than most niche or exclusive-line perfumes. The “small” bottle costs $155, so that is approximately $36 an ounce — the general price of mass-market perfumes. The gigantic “large” 8.5 oz size costs $230 for $27 an ounce — far less than any perfume at Sephora or Macy’s! But, tell me seriously, how many people will ever finish an 8.5 oz bottle?! Who? It’s completely insane.

On the other hand, if you opt for their … er… “small” size, you are getting more bang for your buck than with any other haute perfume on the market! Even more so if you order directly from a Dior boutique where, in the U.S. at least, there won’t be tax, will be free shipping and you’ll get tons of wonderful, free goodies. (See below for details.) And, by the standards of niche or haute perfumery (which, I grant you, are quite screwy), $155 is not hugely expensive even if the bottle were a regular size.

Bottom line for lovers of light florals: forget the name, lose all your expectations, and give New Look 1947 a chance. You may be pleasantly surprised.

DETAILS:

New Look 1947 is available exclusively at Dior boutiques or on Dior online. In the US, it is sold only at Dior’s Las Vegas boutique [call (702) 369-6072]. However, what I would do is to call this number instead — (702) 734-1102 — and ask for Karina Lake, the Dior Beauty Stylist at the Las Vegas store. She is an amazingly sweet lady who will give you a free 5 ml mini bottle of the Dior perfume of your choice, along with 3-4 small 1 ml dab vial sample bottles. Even better, you will get free shipping and pay no tax! Tell her Kafka sent you. As noted above, the perfume comes in two sizes: the 4.25 fl oz/125 ml costs $155, while the 8.5 fl oz/250 ml costs $230. Though New York’s Bergdorf Goodman and San Francisco’s Neiman Marcus carry the Dior Privée line collection of perfumes, they don’t carry all of them because I think they rotate 6 at a time. I don’t know if New Look 1947 is one of the ones they carry.

Outside of the US: you can use the Points of Sale page on the Dior website to find a location for a Dior store near you. You can also navigate the Dior website’s International section to buy the perfume online. The problem is that the site is not very straight-forward. If you go to this page, look at the very far right to the bottom where it will say, in black, “International Version” and click on that. You should see options for Europe, Asia-Oceana, and South America. Within Europe, there are different sub-sites divided by country. The one closest to you should have New Look 1947 available for sale.

Samples: If you want to give New Look 1947 a sniff, samples are available at Surrender to Chance where prices start at $3.00 for a 1 ml vial. If you’re interested in trying the whole Privée line, Surrender to Chance sells all 13 fragrances in a sampler set for $35.99.

Perfumes – ISO E Super: Antiseptic Horror, Aphrodisiac Pheromone or Nothingness?

Posted on April 1, 2013 by Kafkaesque

Bleach, morgue disinfectant, medicinal antiseptic, camphorous muscle rub, copy toner, rubbing alcohol, headache-inducing toxicity, furniture varnish — or — velvety, sweet woods, smooth amber, a super floralizer, or a completely invisible skin scent that acts like a pheromone and aphrodisiac.

ISO E Super. Source: Fragrantica

Those are the two faces of ISO E Super, an aromachemical which may be one of the great unofficial or secret ingredients in perfumery. Only a perfume addict is likely to know the name but — whether you are a hardcore perfumista or someone new to the world of fragrances — chances are that you’ve smelled ISO E Super. You simply may not have known it.

So, what is it? It is an aromachemical or a synthetic that is being used, more and more frequently, in perfumery. The Perfume Shrine has in-depth discussion of ISO E Super which is a good place for someone to start if they want to know the full details, but Elena Vosnaki also provides a shorter summary on Fragrantica:

Iso E Super® is the trademark name of aromachemical 7-acetyl, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-1,1,6,7-tetramethyl naphthalene and you can easily guess why the short code-name was invented for use instead of its long organic chemistry name. According to International Fragrances and Flavors who produce and patented Iso E Super smells:

‘Smooth, woody, amber with unique aspects giving a ‘velvet’ like sensation. Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances. Superb floralizer found in the majority of newer fine fragrances and also useful in soaps. Richer in the desirable gamma isomer than isocyclemone e’. IFF

Odor profile: Synthetic note with cedar woody, abstract facets that create a fuzz on skin, extending and helping a fragrance composition radiate from the skin, very popular with modern fragrances.

The biggest surprise however comes when someone smells Iso E Super in isolation: how almost non-existent a smell Iso-E Super has (not something one would describe as a concrete smell) and at the same time how unapologetically synthetic, perhaps vaguely cedar-like, slightly sweet, nuanced, even peppery in combination with other notes it smells when you really notice it.

There is a lot of talk about how ISO E Super is, in the words of Allure magazine “the sweet smell of… nothing,” or about how its neutralness can have the crazy effect of being like a pheromone.

I don’t think any of those descriptions go far enough. Have you ever smelled a perfume where there seemed a distinct element of rubbing alcohol underneath a note of peppery wood? If so, that may very well have been ISO E Super. On my skin, large amounts of ISO E Super turn into: purely medicinal antiseptic that are reminiscent of a visit to the hospital; rubbery pink bandaids; camphorous medicine; sharply peppered woods; and what they use to scrub your skin before a vaccination shot — all combined into one. It can be loud, screechy, toxic and so powerful that astronauts in space could detect it. In small amounts, however, the shrillness of the alcohol recedes just a little to add a quiet, woody, velvety note that is highly peppered like cedar. But it is still there, still smells synthetic, and still evokes rubbing alcohol in fleeting wisps.

Some people are anosmic to ISO E Super, at least in small amounts, which means that they can’t really smell the note. The problem, however, is that there are a number of people who get severe headaches from the synthetic, even when they can’t detect it. Even more of a problem is that ISO E Super is usually not listed as an official note in a perfume list — at least, not unless it’s used in a significant quantity or the perfumer feels like being candid.

The issue of ISO E Super came up last week in the comments discussing Ormonde Jayne’s Montabaco. As I said then, and repeat now, I do not consider myself an expert on the note, but the gallons and gallons of the aromachemical in that perfume provided a rapid crash-training course. Prior to Montabaco, I had smelled the rubbing alcohol aspect of peppered woods many a time before, but never officially and to that immense degree. Montabaco has now made me acutely aware of the synthetic in any quantity, great or small. It also made me realise that some of the perfumes that I’d struggled with in the past due to their hospital-disinfectant, sharply medicinal, toxic characteristics — Montale‘s Aoud Lime and Aoud Blossoms, I’m looking straight at you — were perfumes that must have contained massive amounts of ISO E. When I compared Aoud Lime to Chernobyl and said that a mere drop could be detected out in space by the astronauts on the Space Station, that was the synthetic at play. It’s so obvious now, in hindsight….

But how is one to know if the note isn’t listed in the perfume and if one isn’t an expert on synthetics? What if one is just an average consumer who gets headaches from certain scents, but doesn’t know what to avoid just by looking at perfume notes? How can they know in the future with certainty if ISO E is rarely mentioned? That was the question raised by one of the readers to the blog, Jackie, who tried Ormonde Jayne‘s Ta’if and said that she got the exact same headache that she continuously got every time she wore Chanel‘s Chance Eau Tendre. At first, she thought it might be the rose note, but she hasn’t always had that problem with other rose fragrances. So, I mentioned the possibility of the culprit being ISO E Super. She had never heard of the aromachemical before but, when she investigated further, concluded that it might be the cause. Then she asked me, how she could ever know with certainty whether a perfume has it, so that she can avoid it? Her question is the reason for this post but, unfortunately, I have no answer.

The best measure of clarity that I can provide (and it is almost nothing, alas) is that certain types or families of perfumes are particularly susceptible to the “super floralizer” or “smooth woody” aspects of the synthetic. In my opinion, and speaking as a non-expert on ISO E Super, I think pure florals are the most likely to have ISO E Super in them; and the likelihood is increased even more if they are a mass-market perfume. Woody perfumes with things like vetiver, oud/agarwood, cypress or cedar are the next category where ISO E Super may provide some benefits in a perfumer’s mind, but it’s not quite as certain of a possibility across the board. I think gourmands may be the least likely category, simply by virtue of their ingredients.

None of that, however, is a rule set in stone that you can count on. There are plenty of niche perfumes which may have ISO E Super. I recently tested Dior‘s floral New Look 1947 from the prestige Privée line which definitely includes some ISO E Super, and that’s hardly a mass-market fragrance that you’ll find at Sephora or Macy’s. So, perhaps a better bet is to know your perfumers, as well as the categories of fragrances likely to have ISO E Super.

There are certain famous noses who are well-known to adore using the synthetic. Jacques Polge of Chanel is one. As a result, if you’re tempted by a Chanel floral scent — especially one in the mass-market line — be aware that there is a good chance it will have the synthetic. To wit, something like Chanel‘s Chance Eau Tendre which started this whole thing.

Geza Schoen is another admirer. No perfume incorporates more of the synthetic than the famous or infamous Molecules 01 for Escentric Molecules, a fragrance that is essentially 100% ISO E Super diluted in solvent. The recent news that he helped make most of Ormonde Jayne‘s established line of 12 perfumes may explain why that brand is also frequently mentioned in the discussion of ISO E. In fact, a while ago, I stumbled across a post on the I Smell Therefore I Am blog where a few people said that they got headaches from almost all the Ormonde Jaynes (except Tiare and Frangipani) due to the molecule.

Jean-Claude Ellena of Hermès is also a big fan of the note. According to the Perfume Shrine, he “has experimented with its magic properties many a time in the past to glorious effect: Terre d’Hermès, Poivre Samarkande and Déclaration are utilizing lots of it, exploring minimalism: the play of scents note-for-note with no sentimentality attached.” But these are only a few out of the many Hermès perfumes he has created, so clearly, one can’t simply eliminate all Ellena fragrances on the mere off-chance that it may have ISO E Super.

Andy Tauer of Tauer Perfumes may also use the aromachemical, since he raved about its benefits on his blog:

One of the well known molecules that you can use to add [an optimizing] layer is iso E Super. Many hate it, because they associate it with a particular type of perfumery (I think), some know its scent from the single molecule series, iso E super is No. 01, but mostly it is actually there, in the fragrance, where you do not really smell it but where it acts like a layer in photoshop.

It adds lift, and it soften all notes, and it brings out contrasts and optimizes a fragrance in quite a spectacular way. In a sense it is present by its effect, and less by its scent. It is not by chance that you find iso E Super in so many scents these days. Actually, the analogy to a photoshop layer is not so bad.

The Perfume Shrine lists a few of the perfumes officially known to have ISO E Super in them but states “Iso E Super is used in so many fragrances today that it would be hard to compile an actual list that would not bore everyone silly!” The perfumes on their list:

1 Molecule 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 100%

2 Perles de Lalique (Lalique, 2007) 80%

3 PoivreSamarcande (Herme`s, 2004) 71%

4 Escentric 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 65%

5 Terre d’Hermes (Hermes, 2006) 55%

6 Incense Kyoto (comme des garcons, 2002) 55%

7 Incense Jaisalmer (comme des garcons, 2002) 51%

8 Fierce for Men (Abercrombie & Fitch, 2002) 48%

9 Kenzo Air (Kenzo, 2003) 48%

10 Encrenoire (Lalique, 2006) 45%

Other perfumes mentioned in both the post and in the comments section are:

Lancome‘s Trésor, which may have been the first perfume to have significantly large amounts of ISO E in it;

Agent Provocateur‘s Maitresse;

Dior‘s Fahrenheit which has 25% ISO E Super in the compound;

Shiseido‘s Féminité du Bois which was created by Serge Lutens before he opened his own perfume house.

Fragrantica also has a list of some perfumes with the note, but its shortness means that it is far from inclusive. They mention:

Molecules 01 and 02 from Escentual Molecules;

Escentric 01 and 02 from Escentual Molecules;

Le Labo’s Another 13;

Prada’s Luna Rossa;

Slumberhouse’s Invisible Musk;

Neil Morris’ Rose Tattoo; and

Olivier & Co. Mousse.

If we were to compile an unofficial, somewhat subjective list, based solely on my experiences, things said by others on a Basenotes thread, a Fragrantica thread, blogs, and Google searches, then other, additional perfumes with ISO E Super might also include:

Montale‘s Aoud Lime, Aoud Blossoms and Oriental Flowers.

Dior‘s New Look 1947 (though the ISO E is not unpleasant here to my nose and is quite subtle).

Bvlgari Homme;

Marc Jacob‘s Bang;

Ormonde Jayne‘s Ormonde Woman, Ormonde Man, Montabaco and, indeed, much of the line except Tiare and Frangipani.

Antonia’s Flowers‘ Tiempe Passate which is the basis of a discussion by Undina of Undina’s Looking Glass who notes its similarity to Molecule 01.

Jean-Claude Ellena’s Bvlgari Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert Extreme.

Kenzo‘s Kenzo Air (see the Fragrantica thread linked up above for mention of this and all the subsequent perfumes listed below).

Dolce & Gabbana‘s Light Blue;

Diptyque Eau Duelle;

L`Occitane en Provence Eau d’Iparie;

Sisley Sisley Eau de 3;

Giorgio Armani Onde Mystere;

Lancome Magnifique;

Le Labo Rose 31;

Dior Vetiver (La Collection Privée/La Collection Couturier);

Parfumerie Générale Djhenné;

Neela Vermeire Créations Ashoka;

Amouage Opus VII (The Library Collection); and

a number of Sonoma Scent Studio (SSS) woody fragrances, according to Laurie Erickson, the founder and nose.

Again, ISO E Super is rarely listed among a perfume’s official notes, so all of this is based simply on subjective, personal experience. But one has to start somewhere, and for those who can become ill from painful headaches triggered by a perfume containing the synthetic, something is better than nothing. At the very least, it will provide them with a starting point for further investigation if they see a fragrance mentioned on the list or in the comments.

So, can you help out? What perfumes have you smelled in which you detected ISO E Super? Are you like me where you can tolerate it in very minor amounts and can sometimes see its beneficial touch, but are repulsed by large quantities of the synthetic? Or are you anosmic to the scent? Are you unlucky enough to get headaches from it? If you adore it, what exactly about the note’s manifestation on your skin makes you such a huge fan?