Let’s Play Questions…. Vol. 4 – Traumatic Perfume Experiences

Happy Saturday! I hope you’re all having a good weekend thus far. I thought it would be fun to play another round of “Questions” focusing on the issue of bad perfume experiences. I recently tried a perfume that was so terrible, I can’t write about it for the simple reason that I don’t think I can talk about it in any coherent, objective, rational, sane manner. More importantly, it triggered such a visceral response that I simply can’t bear to re-live it, and it would probably end up being my last review if I did.

I’m not going to name names (so don’t ask), but the issue led me to wonder if you’ve experienced something similar. Have you ever tried a fragrance that almost broke you as a perfumista and almost put you off perfume forever? The name doesn’t matter and you don’t have to name names either if you don’t want to, because what I’m most interested in is the impact of the experience. Did it put you off that type of perfume, everything from the brand, or did it have some other reaction? Have you ever tried something that was such an ordeal that you actually couldn’t bear to think of putting on any perfume for a while? Or did you just get over the experience by resorting to a favorite, beloved comfort scent? At the risk of sounding a little like Carrie Bradshaw from “Sex And The City,” how do you deal with perfume trauma?

[Edited to add:  The Scented Hound brought up another really interesting situation: have you ever had a beloved fragrance suddenly turn on you out of the blue, such that you need a little time and distance before you could wear it again? If so, how long did it take you before you could go back to it? ]

Let’s Play Questions…. Vol. 3 – What Have You Tried Lately?

The Hairy German.

The Hairy German.

Happy Friday! I hope Spring has started to make its way to your neck of the woods. I’ll spare you what the weather has been like here, or how I’m currently wearing shorts…. (Sorry, I couldn’t help it. It’s the only benefit of living where I do!)

Since it’s almost the weekend, I thought you may have time to chat in another round of Questions! Many of you recently took advantage of Surrender to Chance’s Anniversary Sale and, by now, even your second packages should have arrived. I thought it would be a lot of fun to hear about the samples you ordered and may have started to test out. However, not all of you are in the U.S. or ordered from the site. A number of you get your samples elsewhere, whether in swaps, from friends, or just from stores in your neck of the woods. As a result, I wanted to make this broader in scope to apply to any perfume samples that you may tried out lately, regardless of source.

Here are your questions. Feel free to answer any or all of them:

  1. What perfume(s) were you looking forward to trying the most?
  2. Once you got it, did you like it, or was there an another scent that unexpectedly blew you away more?
  3. Whatever the source of your sample(s), have you tried anything recently that you are really tempted to buy as a full bottle? If you’ve already succumbed, what specifically made that scent so irresistible to you?
  4. For those of you who are new to sampling (or Surrender to Chance), what did you think of the whole experience thus far? Is it going to send you down the rabbit hole?

On my end, my second StC package arrived yesterday, but I haven’t had a chance to test out any of the perfumes from the order yet. I fear it will be quite a while before I get around to all of them, given that I’m still working my way through some of my samples from 3 orders ago!

The Hairy German at the dog park.

The Hairy German at the dog park.

Just to let you all know, I never, ever smell a perfume until I’m ready to test it. I don’t want a quick, hurried sniff to prejudice my perceptions. So, I wait until I have at least a solid 8 hours to put it on my skin, and to focus on nothing but the smell. No quick dabs as I go out with The Hairy German, or while I’m on my way to the supermarket. No quick splashes of one scent on one arm, and another fragrance on the other while I’m just relaxing. I don’t even open and sniff the vial until I’m ready to concentrate on every part of the scent, with a notepad on hand and an eye on the clock.

As a result, I won’t really be able to participate in this conversation and to share my own experiences, but I want to live vicariously through all of you. The best part about perfume is how much better and sweeter it is when shared. My favorite thing is when it feels like a lively cocktail party where everyone mingles, shares stories, and passes around the wine or, in this case, the perfume. I hope you will all feel free to converse with each other in the comments. And don’t hesitate to be honest if you don’t like something. We all have different skin chemistry, we all filter scents through our own background history or perceptions, and we all have certain notes that we like more (or less) than others. I won’t be offended if you hated my favorite perfume, I swear!

His Highness, lounging in full furriness.

His Highness, lounging in full furriness.

So, pull up a chair, have a drink or some tea, let the Hairy German take over your lap (I warn you, he’s more like a cat, albeit a giant one that sheds more than three furry children combined), pass the cookies, and let’s talk perfume! If you just want to talk about hairy children, your weekend plans, or something else, that would be wonderful, too! I am a little swamped in trying to push out the next review, so I may not be able to reply right away, but I wanted you to have a place where you could share your recent experiences. 🙂

Let’s Play Questions…. Vol. 2 – Perfume & Television

I’m a TV junkie. Yes, I admit it fully and without shame. Television is one of the few ways I can turn off the endless, whirling dervishes of my mind. As someone who is an insomniac partially because of that fevered mind, television is also a lovely companion at 3:48 a.m. when even the Hairy German is asleep. I watch all sorts of series, from acclaimed dramas to historical period pieces, serial-killer detective shows to every single thing ever released on HBO and, yes, even things of a less… er… reputable nature like reality shows. (Heidi Klum, we need to have a little chat about your new perfume on the recent episode of Project Runway.)

“Kalinda Sharma” on The Good Wife.

One of those (better) shows came to mind the other day when I was mulling over Robert Piguet‘s legendary butch leather perfume, Bandit, and how, in the end, I simply wasn’t tough enough for her. It suddenly hit me who would be the ideal woman for Bandit: Kalinda on The Good Wife. Tenacious, tough, edgy, often in black leather, with a seductive, mysterious, enigmatic side to that Mona Lisa smile. And, yes, sexually open in a way that Bandit’s famous creator, Germaine Cellier, would wholly approve of. After all, Cellier was allegedly not only a lesbian but, also, the woman who supposedly sniffed the panties of models coming off of from the runway in order to absorb the true essence of a woman. (If you’re interested, you can read the story of Bandit and Germaine Cellier in my review of the fragrance.)

So, I started wondering: what other fragrances would be the perfect fit for characters on shows that I watch? I began by going through various series that I adore with a passion (Game of Thrones, Breaking Bad, Homeland, Mad Men, Downton Abbey, Person of Interest), those I really like a lot (Boardwalk Empire, The Good Wife, The Americans), and even those old favorites from the past (The Wire, Frasier, All Creatures Great and Small, Upstairs/Downstairs, Inspectors Morse/Lewis, Foyle’s War, House of Cards, and every BBC show ever made — since I seem to have watched them all).

I concluded that starting with the television show was absolutely the wrong way to go about things! It was overwhelming to think of all the characters and what might suit them. It was much more logical to start with the perfume itself and then cast about for which character — across all possible shows — might fit with it. Even so, it’s still a bloody difficult task!

I’ve got a few vague mental images in my mind thus far, but I’m struggling. For Game of Thrones, obviously one of the “Night’s Watch” up North would wear Frederic Malle‘s Eau d’Hiver, but which one? I think Ned Stark, Sean Bean’s character, would wear something leathery and masculine, but I doubt it would be any of the sweetly spiced ones. And no refined leather like Cuir de Russie for such a warrior, either.

“Dany” on Game of Thrones.

I’m still pondering that one, as I am for the rest of the characters on the show. For example, Daenerys Targaryen could go one of two, very different ways: something extremely light and white to reflect the Targaryen clan’s platinum hair; or a spicy oriental to reflect her time in the desert, and her evolution from an innocent girl who would have once worn a soft floral. Nothing comes to mind on the first front. For the second, however, I could easily see her with some feminine, spicy floral leather fragrance like Serge LutensCuir Mauresque or Puredistance M. The latter, in particular, would fit the molten fires of that critical scene at the end in the first season. (I won’t say which to avoid spoiling it for those who haven’t seen the show.)

Daenerys is much easier than the Lannisters. I cannot imagine a perfume for a single one of the icy, power-hungry, incestuous, and/or mentally unhinged Lannister clan. Perhaps fantasy shows do not lend themselves well to more moderate, civilised scents? That said, the very extreme Secretions Magnifique from Etat Libre d’Orange might suit The Imp, but it seems a shame to saddle such a brilliant, rich, complex character (and the only decent Lannister!) with something so singular. On the other hand, Tyrion does seek to be intentionally provocative to those around him and, also, does seem a little obsessed by sex, so perhaps it fits after all.

“Roger Sterling” (left) and “Don Draper” (right) on Mad Men.

Unfortunately, I’m struggling with modern-era series just as much, albeit for very different reasons. I don’t know enough about true men’s colognes to think of scents for characters like Walter White on Breaking Bad. (What would a chemistry teacher turned meth drug overlord wear anyway???!) I can see Don Draper on Mad Men wearing Eau Sauvage (if only because of the name) and Roger Sterling with Givenchy’s Monsieur de Givenchy — but neither seems like a truly perfect, “Aha!”-type fit.

“Carrie Mathison” on Showtime’s Homeland.

As for the women, on most of the shows I watch, they wouldn’t be the sort for the rich, spicy Orientals or the flamboyantly diva-like florals that I know so well. Bi-polar CIA operatives on an obsessed hunt for a terrorist mole/Marine/Senator don’t typify something like my beloved, boozy Alahine, the happy Bombay Bling, or the ultra-feminine diva, Fracas. (Gaby on Desperate Housewives might be another matter entirely.) On second thought, perhaps the very schizophrenic, creamy Datura Noir from Serge Lutens might fit the very troubled, blonde Carrie Mathison? As for Nick Brody, somehow I see Andy Tauer‘s L’Air du Desert Marocain, but is his purported clean-cut, All-American image better suited for something American, fresh, and conservative? So many questions!

Equally perplexity is the issue of Reagan-era, KGB “Directorate S” operatives living as moles in the suburbs of D.C. Despite the era, I can’t see the characters of The Americans wearing anything as ’80s in its potency or forcefulness as a Tom Ford Private Blend fragrance — or even the actual ’80s powerhouse, Giorgio. But I can see them wearing His and Hers versions of Armani‘s Acqua di Gio. Perfectly innocuous, bland, mass-market, generic scents that completely blend in with their lack of character and, thus, never stand out.

“Betty Draper” on Mad Men.

“Megan” on Mad Men.

Speaking of restrained fragrances, I see Betty Draper on Mad Men wearing an extremely repressed, reserved, haughtily rich-smelling Chanel scent. My guess would be Chanel’s new (and extremely boring) 1932. In contrast, Megan would probably opt for something with a little edge and probably some hippie patchouli in it as well, though I have no idea yet what it would be. Serge LutensBorneo 1834? Or, perhaps, Chanel‘s Coco Noir with its more classic character but, at the same time, with that purple patchouli note? Neither seems to be the perfect fit, though I see the Lutens being more applicable than the Chanel.

My questions for you: Is there a fragrance that you see as the ideal “Aha!” match for a character on a show that you watch? If so, what perfume and why does it so perfectly epitomize that character? Obviously, you’re not limited to the shows I’ve mentioned; I’d love to know what you enjoy. Also, don’t feel compelled to restrict yourself to fragrances that existed at the time in which the characters live or lived. For example, just because Downton Abbey takes place in the very early part of the 20th century doesn’t mean that you’re limited to Guerlain, Coty, or Caron. Lastly, are there any characters whose ideal perfume stumps you? If so, perhaps someone else can help and jump in with the answer.

Let’s Play “Questions”….

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about the various notes with which we each struggle. Our personal bête noire, if you will. How many of us really pinpoint all the notes that really turn us off perfumes? A discussion in comments to the recent Serge Lutens’ Cuir Mauresque review and how it smelled “dirty” to some brought the issue of about animalic civet and musk to the forefront of my mind. So did a comment on another blog about lily-of-the-valley and muguet. But, while we know our greatest and most horrifying notes, the greater issue concerns the grey zones: what about those which straddle the line and where it’s all a question of their treatment in a perfume?

So, I thought it would be fun to play Questions. It’s one of my favorite games and, as a former litigator, I have my own extremely elaborate version with a complicated set of rules, but I’ll spare you what has been compared to the Spanish Inquisition and just stick to the basics. Well, as “basic” as someone massively detailed like myself can be….

This is the scenario: you’re going to a famous perfumer to order a bespoke fragrance. In preparation, he asks you to write down all the notes that you can think of and put them into six different categories. These are the categories:

  1. Notes you absolutely adore with a passion and which make you sit up just a little bit straighter when you see them on a perfume list.
  2. Notes you like.
  3. Notes you neither like or dislike. True and genuine indifference as to their appearance in a perfume.
  4. Notes that are very iffy for you unless done right, are in conjunction with other things, or are handled in a certain way. In other words, problematic notes that straddle the line between ambivalence and dislike unless something amazing happens to them.
  5. Notes that you don’t like. 
  6. Notes that you hate with the searing passion of a thousand burning suns!

Now, you might be surprised when you really think about ALL the possible notes out there and which one of the categories they would really fall under. I certainly was for a few of them. Categories #3, 4 and 5 are the ones I’m most curious about. What straddles the line and what gets pushed over into some dislike? Are there things to which that you are truly indifferent, or that you like but are hardly going to get excited over?

For those of you who post here regularly, I know some of your hardcore buttons for Category #5: patchouli for one of you; civet or musk for another; Tide and soap for a few; and, yes, lily-of-the-valley or muguet for one poor person whose dislike almost verges on trauma. (You know who you are…) And, obviously, we all hate synthetics. (Or so I hope.) I’ll also take for granted that you’ll have problems with any note that is taken to a huge, abnormal extreme.

But I’m curious about how clear-cut things are for you. When thinking of your list, consider the following general categories in order to find ingredients frequently used in perfumery: Fruit; Food; Citruses; Things in your Spice Cabinet; Gourmand; Chypre; Fougère; Oriental; Leather; Abstract scents; Alcohol. Feel free to put an asterix next to any note where you’re still not sure where it lies and explain which other category it may fall into.

So, this is my personal list, though I’m sure I’ve forgotten a few things:

1. Notes you absolutely love and adore with a passion. Essentially, notes which make you sit up just a little bit straighter when you see them on a perfume list: 

Orange blossom; orange notes in general; saffron; sandalwood; labdanum; patchouli; incense; frankincense/opoponax; resins/Siam resin/Peru Balsam/amber; and ambergris.

2. Notes you like:

Tuberose* (may be in the Love category); jasmine; gardenia* (may be in the Love category); bergamot; honey; myrrh; cloves; cardamom; nutmeg; ginger; almond; boozy rum or rum raisin; hyacinth; and grapefruit.

3. Notes you neither like nor dislike:

Tobacco leaves; tea; tarragon; vetiver; lemon; verbena; fennel/anise; ylang-ylang; osmanthus; star anise; violets; frangipani/plumeria; peppercorns (pink or black pepper); lily-of-the-valley; muguet; salt; peaches; plums* (may be iffy if too purple patchouli synthetic); apricots; earth; chocolate; vanilla; caramel; coffee; and oakmoss.

4. Notes that are questionable and iffy for you unless done right, are in conjunction with other things, or are handled in a certain way. In other words, problematic notes that straddle the line between ambivalence and actual dislike unless done well.

Geranium; rose; green galbanum; powder; orris root/iris (due to the powder issue); skanky civet; leather* (needs to be done REALLY well or it will go the Dislike category); agarwood/oud; musk; white musk* (borders on the Dislike category since it’s often so synthetic in smell); powder; black licorice; cumin; coconut; aquatic notes (this is different than salty notes); cherries; rhubarb; dust; plastic; gasoline; asphalt; medicinal camphor; curry; celery; oleander (see “powder” issues); purple (purple grape-y patchouli); and “metallic” notes.

5. Notes that you don’t like

Aldehydes; lavender; cedar; excessively peppery cypress; melon; angelica; coca-cola/root beer; sweat; butter; popcorn; horse feces (see, “leather”); urine; blood (not that I’ve smelled it yet in perfume, but I know it’s out there); and suntan oil.

6. Notes that you hate with the searing passion of a thousand burning suns!

“Clean, fresh” scents (soap; laundry detergent; fabric softener; Acqua di Gio); calone; baby powder; shampoo; hairspray; and rubbing alcohol/disinfectant.

So, what about you? Knowing what you love and hate is easy, but the shades of grey… that is much harder. As a side note, if you think it would be fun to have more of these sort of chat or discussion posts, please let me know.