Source: designzzz.com

My list of favorite fragrances that I’ve tried this year is quite different from yesterday’s list of the best new releases of 2014. The latter centered largely on scents that I thought were good, very elegant or interesting representations of their genre, regardless of whether they were my personal cup of tea, and they were only things that debuted in 2014. Today’s list is purely about what I really enjoyed and does not consider the date in release at all. So, this time around, there are very few qualifications and caveats, and the vast majority of these fragrances are things that I bought for myself, am thinking about buying, or would love to buy were their price not a consideration.

You will notice that a good number of the fragrances are not complex masterpieces at all, but quite simple in nature. One reason for that is that I love cozy, comfort scents, and they are generally not very nuanced or multifaceted to begin with. Plus, mindlessly simple but really well-done fragrances that combine richness with soothing warmth are, in all honesty, a huge relief to me after a long day where I do nothing but analyse every nuance and change in a scent for hours (upon hours) on end.

Ferdinand Leeke, “The Last Farewell of Wotan and Brunhilde,” (1875). Source: Wikipedia.com

A few other points. As always, I have to repeat my mantra regarding the subjective, personal nature of reviewing in general, and how a list like this is even doubly so. With regard to the rankings, it’s always an utter nightmare, but the Top Ten chosen here are generally quite firm in order. There is a bit more leeway with the next 10 names, as a tiny handful could go up or down one to two places of where they are at the present time. I’m most undecided about the placement of the last 10 which are the most subject to fluctuations in order. One reason why is because perfumistas are a fickle bunch who can change their mind from one month to the next, and I’m no exception. The other reason is that I’ve gone back and forth on a few scents, switching their places repeatedly until I just gave up in the end. So, for now, this is where things are, for the most part. Finally, you will notice that some of my summary descriptions are verbatim from my list of best, new releases of 2014 or from my mid-2014 best or favorites list. My apologies in advance. Covering almost 60 fragrances in two days is rather an exhausting process, so I hope you will forgive me.

TOP TEN FAVORITES TRIED THIS YEAR:

1. 

   Source: picvenue.com

   BOGUE PROFUMO MAAI. Maai completely bowled me over from the first sniff, and there was never any doubt from that point forth that it would top my list of best releases of the year. For me, it is, quite simply, a masterpiece — one that harkens back to the very best of classical perfumery and to a time when IFRA/EU restrictions had not completely gutted fragrances. I have absolutely no idea how Antonio Gardoni managed to make a scent that screams oakmoss in this day and age, but he has. Not only is Maai a technical feat of mastery (and rather an olfactory miracle), but it is a superbly opulent, high-octane fragrance that fully earns my highest accolade: Wagnerian. It feels like the Ride of The Valkyries (and then some), with its seamless mix of green tuberose, jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang, all heavily drenched in animalic notes that evoke a roaring black panther, then placed upon a darkly resinous base and cocooned with the thickest blanket of green. It is most assuredly NOT a scent for the faint of heart, NOT a scent for those who can’t handle animalic notes, and NOT for anyone who doesn’t like divaesque, heavy, profoundly bold fragrances with old-school glamour. Maai is the sort of scent that you either wear to seduce or when you want to feel as though you’re going to a red-carpet gala event. It stands out on so many levels, I don’t know where to begin, but the fact that it smells as though it was magically crafted in a time when oakmoss was not practically banned from perfumery has to be first on the list. Bottom-line, Maai is utterly magnificent, a rarity in this day and age, and unquestionably one of the best fragrances that I’ve smelled in years, not just in 2014. Simply jaw-dropping, and stupendous.

2. 

   “Desert Mirage” by Carolyn Schiffhouer at Ebsqart.com. (Website link embedded within.)

   SHL 777 BLACK GEMSTONE. Until I tried Maai, Black Gemstone was my favorite fragrance of the year. An opening of black, smoky, tarry darkness is pierced by an astonishingly vibrant, bright yellow beam of concentrated, juicy, tangy lemon. The rest of the scent is a superb blend of shape-shifting notes, dominated by spicy patchouli, incense, and rich amber. Cedar, saffron, myrrh, tonka sweetness, and a touch of eucalyptus all dance around in the background, before the perfume transitions to a smoky, spicy, ambered richness in the drydown. It is layer upon layer of goldenness upon a deep base that feels like the darkest resins have turned to velvet or satin. Black Gemstone was love at first sniff for me, and a fragrance which I adore from start to finish. My black bottle is one of the treasures in my collection, and something I turn to whenever I want to be transported away by really powerful, potent darkness.

3. 

   Source: appszoom.com

   MAITRE PARFUMEUR & GANTIER AMBRE PRECIEUX. There are far more interesting, complex, and distinctive fragrances on this list than Ambre Precieux, and there are certainly better ambers in the world. The Rolls-Royce of mixed ambers (ambergris with some labdanum) is probably Profumum Roma‘s Ambra Aurea, while O Hira  (see below) stands above all else for pure labdanum ones. Yet, MPG’s fragrance is the one that I’ve found myself returning to again and again, often seeking it out every time I have a rare night to wear my own fragrances. I’m wholly, utterly, uncontrollably in the grips of some mad obsession with Ambre Precieux, such that I’ve gone through almost 70% of a 100 ml bottle in only a few months. I douse myself in it, spray it on my sheets, layer it on top of practically every genre of fragrance imaginable, and want to wear it constantly. Absolutely nothing about Ambre Precieux should justify any of this, especially as it’s an extremely simple, linear, uncomplicated scent. The thing is, I’m judging the fragrance by a very different standard than what is a good amber or an interesting scent. You see, Ambre Precieux is actually my ideal version of a gourmand fragrance. For someone with my extremely low tolerance for sweetness, this mix of caramel amber with vanilla, benzoin, and lightly powdered sweetness is practically a gourmand. It is never cloying, gooey, or sugary, thanks to the counterbalancing, very subtle effects of myrtle and lavender. The latter are more like suggestions than distinct, truly aromatic elements, but they keep the amber’s caramel nuances in check and ensure a perfect equilibrium between the various parts. The result is an incredibly comforting, cozy, soothing scent that relaxes me and simply makes me happy. As a side note, the new Ultime version (which is also reviewed at the link given above) does not have this effect on me at all, and is more of a proper amber scent. It’s nice, but I’m not crazy about the change in balance, the massive increase in aromatic elements and darkness, and the drop in vanillic sweetness. I’ll stick to the original. If one were to choose perfumes solely on the basis of illogical emotionalism and pure addiction, Ambre Precieux would probably top this list.

4. 

   Source: wallpaperswa.com

   SHL 777 O HIRA. O Hira is the Incredible Hulk of ambers, in my opinion, and in a class all by itself. It also has more elements than the mere umbrella description, “fossilized amber,” that is given as its one official note. Its labdanum is seamlessly blended with darkened woods, and with treacly, blackened resins like styrax and probably Tolu balsam. The molten, resinous juices are so beautifully honeyed, dark, leathery, and toffee’d, that I was instantly hooked. At a higher dosage, O Hira showed a naughty, animalic side that reminds me of Vintage Opium‘s base, and not just because both fragrances share the same sort of growling, drop-dead sexiness. In fact, I think O Hira on the right man or woman could be devastatingly seductive.The end result of all this is a civilized veneer of baroque, bronzed opulence which hides animalic, smoky, musky, and leathered elements, as well as a strongly blackened, slightly dirty heart. I think it’s stunning, drop-dead sexy, an utter beast, and it would be at the top of my “To Buy” list if the price were not so terrifying. In all honesty, the price (which is in another solar system, even by niche standards) is hard for me to justify. In the end, I’ll just cite to you my Roja Dove Rule and say that it comes down to a very personal, individual valuation when it comes to these sorts of ultra-ultra-luxury fragrances. I can’t afford O Hira and neither can most people, but it is truly an amber above all others, in my opinion.

5. 

   “Ancient Egypt” by Wiccka. Source: DeviantArt. (Website link embedded within.)

   PAPILLON PERFUMERY ANUBIS. Anubis is a stunning, complex oriental by a new British artisanal house that made me say, “Wow” and “Oh My God” out loud upon first sniff. In fact, it was actually going to be first on my list of 2014 new releases until I encountered Maai. Anubis initially appears to be the tale of its namesake, the Egyptian God of the Underworld, as represented by smoky, blackened resins mixed with incense, leathery castoreum, spices, and a dash of velvety roses, then placed upon the symbolic substitute for the Nile with the green-black iridescence of mossy, pink lotus blossom absolute. I think, however, that it’s really the story of how Anubis was tamed by the sensual femininity of the Goddess Bastet. She transforms him with labdanum amber that is lightly coated with a sliver of caramel sweetness, diffuses his smoke, silences his roar with a jasmine kiss on his leathered mouth, and eventually turns the entire scent into general, golden warmth. Anubis is a soft fragrance, not a powerhouse, and a little more discreet than I would personally like, but it is a hugely evocative, luxurious, rich oriental that impressed me from the very first sniff. Plus, it’s really affordable for what you’re getting, too. If you like scents in the vein of Dior‘s discontinued Mitzah with streaks of blackness like SHL 777‘s Black Gemstone, or smoky labdanum fragrances like Tom Ford‘s Amber Absolute (only with far greater complexity and layers), then you really must try Anubis. It’s glorious.

6. 

   Source: whoniversefanon.wikia.com/ Original artist unknown.

   ROJA DOVE NUWA. Nuwa is one of my favorites from this year, even though I would not recommend to the average person because of its opening as a concentrated spice bomb. Fierce, heavy levels of cumin and cloves, to be precise, atop blackened leather. (Plus, it has an astronomical price tag that puts it firmly out of most people’s reach, including my own.) I’ve always respected the luxuriousness and high-quality of Roja Dove fragrances, but none of them moved me enormously or passionately… until Nuwa. It is a Fallen Angel whose demonic opening reminded me of the darkness of the fantastic Black Gemstone, only with an avalanche of spices instead of citruses. Nuwa gradually blossoms into a mossy chypre that is spicy, ambered, and skanky, but also opulent in its depth and very classical in nature. Parts of Nuwa definitely resemble Rochas‘ famous chypre, Femme, in its vintage form but, when taken as a whole, I think the differences are ultimately greater. Regardless, I loved every bit of Nuwa, and I think it stands out with its stupendous richness. It was my Waterloo when it came to the Roja Dove line, and I would buy it in a heartbeat if I didn’t have to sell an organ (or two) to do so. It combines old-school, luxurious elegance and chypre opulence with a modern twist that is dark, bold, and filled with character. At this point, I would normally say that Nuwa is not for the faint of heart, but one of my British readers who knows the Roja Dove line well commented yesterday that the scent has been “brutally reformulated” in the U.K. to remove much of its spicy, distinctive fieriness and its smoky Russian leather, leaving a very “tame” fragrance dominated by citrus and rose. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s true, because I doubt Nuwa was a huge seller in its original form, but it’s still terrible news.

7. 

   Rooney Mara photographed by Mert & Marcus

   HIRAM GREEN MOON BLOOM. Moon Bloom would definitely have been on my Best of 2013 list had I tried it at the time. I’m a sucker for the BWF genre (Big White Florals), and tuberose is my absolute favorite flower in nature. Malle’s much-beloved Carnal Flower has never impressed me much, but Moon Bloom is simply spectacular in its delicacy, richness, and depth. There is greenness that feels like dewy gardenia, along with blackness from the deconstructed tuberose, and perfectly calibrated milkiness from coconut that is never — not once — unctuous, buttery, gooey, or something resembling sun tan lotion. Moon Bloom is a masterfully created mix of lightness and darkness, richness and delicacy, that evokes a Pre-Raphaelite’s Ophelia. Those of you who have always been terrified of tuberose fragrances may be surprised by Moon Beam because is it not a divaesque Fracas white bomb that assaults you. (I adore vintage Fracas, but it definitely is a Maria Callas fragrance!) Instead, Moon Beam is a romantic beauty that is incredibly smooth, well-calibrated, refined, and polished. One thing that is astonishing is the fact that it is an all-natural fragrance; it doesn’t feel like it with its depth, body, and longevity. As a whole, I cannot rave about Moon Beam enough. Truly lovely, and another one that I bought for myself.

8. 

   Source: 360doc.com

   XERJOFF RICHWOOD. There are a lot of fragrances with “sandalwood,” but very (very) few of them have the Mysore wood which I think is the only kind that deserves to bear the name. Richwood is an exception, and most definitely contains the real thing, though I do not think it’s in the unalleviated, pure, solo quantity that Xerjoff claims. Still, even with an aromachemical touch to support it (one that felt a bit scratchy at times), Richwood is a glorious fragrance. Imagine a tree in India made from smoky sandalwood whose branches bear bright, yellow citruses, whose leaves are made from spiced, boozy patchouli, and whose gnarled roots are made from rosewood. From the body of its trunk seeps out plummy, wine-like liqueur. People come from far and wide to pay tribute with incense, and its smoke weaves up to curl around the boozy notes. Over time, the sun-sweetened citruses die away; a mix of cognac booziness and plummy wine liqueur takes over, flecked by a whisper of something floral; and a flood of creaminess seeps up from the base that is astonishingly buttery, plush, and smooth. In short, Richwood is not only a Mysore sandalwood fragrance, but so much more. It’s painfully expensive though, and totally outside my own price range, but I completely understand why some people who find it over-priced end up succumbing nonetheless, or why the scent is often sold out. Richwood was definitely a stand-out in the woody genre for me this year.

9. 

   Source: thisoldhouse.com

   FREDERIC MALLE MUSC RAVAGEUR. Gingerbread, cookies, and a sweet, furry kitten. That is essence of Malle’s famous musk creation on my skin, especially these days after reformulation. There is no “ravaging,” feral, turbulent sensuality, but a lovely, very cozy gourmand made from cloves, ginger, vanillic benzoin, and creamy tonka sweetness, all wrapped up in a soft ambered glow and with only light streaks of civet and ambrette in the base. I don’t even notice the latter unless I sniff up close or apply a lot of the scent. When I do, the fuzzy, ginger kitten shows her claws a tiny bit, but they’re tiny. Perhaps once, Musc Ravageur was something raunchy but I’m not the only one to think this fragrance is about as animalic as Winnie the Pooh (to paraphrase someone on Fragrantica). That said, personal skin chemistry and individual definitions of what constitutes feline skankiness are going to make a big difference in how one interprets the scent. For me, it’s another simple, uncomplicated comfort scent.

10. 

    Source: Miriadna.com desktop wallpapers.

    PARFUMS MDCI CHYPRE PALATIN. Chypre Palatin is an opulent, regal chypre with an astonishing amount of oakmoss, thanks to Bertrand Duchaufour‘s use of a technique that removes the EU/IFRA restricted atranol molecule. Yet, there is far more to the scent than mere oakmoss. Chypre Palatin opens with sun-sweetened tangerines, zesty lemon, spicy brown patchouli, and tons of smoky sweetness from styrax resin. In the base, there is a subtle animalic tinge through the use of castoreum with a touch of costus root (a big part of Kouros‘ legend). The multi-faceted mix is finished off with creamy vanilla, a light touch of delicate florals, a hint of booziness, and a definite underpinning of leathered darkness. Chypre Palatin is a stunner, and I bought a bottle for myself.

THE NEXT 10 FOR THE LIST OF THE TOP 20:

11. 

    Source: drawingforkids.org

    MASQUE MONTECRISTO. A brilliant, animalic fragrance that is positively feral at times, Montecristo evokes a dry jungle where a leather and fur-clad warrior travels through fields of tobacco, spices, dusty woods, and lemony florals, all drenched with honey, booziness, and golden, musky warmth. Cumin, a powerful urinous note, and raunchiness make Montecristo a scent that is not for everyone, but it’s rather magnificent, in my opinion, especially because of the multi-faceted river of leather that runs through it. The golden drydown evoking the feel of heated, warmed skin is particularly splendid, far outweighing anything in the significantly tamer MKK from Serge Lutens. Montecristo is enormously bold, quite fascinating, very powerful, and masterfully done, in my opinion.

12. 

    Photo: Mary Foster Creative, Etsy Store. (Link embedded within photo.)

    SHL 777 KHOL DE BAHREIN. I’m generally not one for iris scents, but Khol de Bahrein is special. A study of light and dark, of coolness and warmth, Khol de Bahrein takes the stony aspects of iris and marries it to the warmth and richness of amber, then dusts them off with heaping mounds of sweetened heliotrope and vanillic tonka powder. There is supposedly a violet element, too, though not on my skin. I’m a sucker for heliotrope, so I fell for the perfume’s coziness and quasi-gourmand flourish, but Khol de Bahrein is first and foremost a study of cool elegance and sophistication. Its rich notes are blended seamlessly, balanced perfectly, and held in check by a discreet softness that feels very refined. Khol de Bahrein is the very first (and only) iris fragrance that I’ve ever fallen for, but hardcore iris lovers rave about it even more. I would recommend it for fans of heliotrope as much as those who love iris.

13. 

    Source: wallpaperup.com

    NOBILE 1942 RUDIS. Rudis was inspired by a tale of a Roman gladiator clad in musky leather who drinks red wine for courage before entering the arena to fight for his life. Smoky woods, immortelle, tangy red fruits, roses, patchouli, earthy vetiver, and golden amber complete the rest of the tale, but single-malt Scotch is what really makes Rudis special. My God, is it glorious scent! Instead of Ancient Rome, Rudis transported me to the most expensive, private club in St. James, London, where the leather was smooth and well-burnished, glasses were filled with Islay whiskey, and smoke wafted from a fireplace that burnt dry wood. The mantlepiece bore vases of red roses dusted with saffron and cloves, while the tables next to the deep leather armchairs had bowls filled with tart, red fruits macerated in Bordeaux wine. Candlelight cast an ambered glow over the proceedings, but a wintry wind blew down from the Highlands, bringing peat and earthy vetiver into the room. As the night passed, some members switched from Scotch to red wine, and a golden warmth swept over the room like a thick blanket, thanks to sweet immortelle mixed with creamy suede. When morning came, everyone lay passed out in a drunken stupor, and all that was left was golden, spicy sweetness. It’s an intoxicating trip from start to finish and Rudis is high on my personal list of things to buy, but it is a scent best suited for those who love boozy fragrances.

14. 

    Source: iwallpapersfive.com

    SANTA MARIA NOVELLA PATCHOULI. It’s not my Holy Grail patchouli, but this simple, uncomplicated soliflore is close. It is also one of the best in its genre that I’ve tried thus far. It starts out fiercely, but soon transforms to something smoother and easier, with waves of patchouli whose undercurrents are spicy, musky, leathery, woody, and camphorous. They envelop you deeply, with endless body, glorious spiciness, and with a resinous feel that sensuously caresses your skin as tendrils of smoke curl around you. It’s never musty, dusty, or boozy, and there are no tobacco or chocolate underpinnings, but the patchouli is very multi-faceted nonetheless. Later, the fragrance turns more golden, as if a touch of benzoin had been used, and takes on a degree of velvety plushness that is rather astonishing for a mere cologne. A lot of people consider SMN’s Patchouli to be the best in its class, above all others, and I can see why. I think it is a far better scent than Tom Ford’s new Patchouli Absolu which didn’t impress me one whit, and which I wouldn’t wear even if it were given to me for free. SMN’s perfume is on my list of things to buy for myself.

15. 

    Source: wallpaperscraft.ru

    PARFUMERIE GENERALE COZE. Imagine yourself lying in a field on a hot summer’s day, surrounded by tall blades of fresh, green grass. Your head rests on large bales of hemp, large pods of cocoa sprout up around your body next to black stalks of Madagascar vanilla, and the patchouli earth is a mix of sweetness and dryness. The sun shines on your face, but brown-red clouds shower cloves and nutmeg down on you, while a dry wind blows a soft smokiness from the ebony trees circling the field. Dotting the landscape all around are picnic tables covered by tobacco leaves that have been lightly drizzled by honey. As you doze in the warmth and golden sweetness, the scenery changes and you’re carried off in a cloud of cloves, nutmeg and chocolate, threaded through with patchouli and dry woods, and a dash of vanilla. Welcome to the special world of Coze, a patch head’s dream, but also much more. It’s a rich, resinous oriental with beautiful warmth that straddles the line between an oriental and a gourmand in a perfectly calibrated mix of spices, warmth, dryness, and sweetness. Coze has apparently been reformulated and weakened, but I loved it enough to I succumb to a bottle for myself.

16. 

    Sir Frank Dicksee, “Leila,” 1892. Source: dailymotion.com

    NAOMI GOODSIR OR DU SERAIL. Or du Sérail (Gold of the Harem) is a complex, multi-layered, ambered oriental with rich hookah tobacco, floral touches of exotic davana and velvety ylang-ylang, hay, honey, cedar, spices, and so much more. What made it stand out for me, though, was a particularly stellar opening where all those notes were drenched with Calvados cognac, resulting in a scent that I found to be compulsively sniffable and almost intoxicating. I’m a sucker for boozy fragrances, but I like them to have additional layers of complexity beyond just the liqueur, and also need them to be balanced; I don’t want to feel as though I’ve merely tumbled into a barrel of alcohol, as I did with Kilian’s Apple Brandy. Bertrand Duchaufour accomplishes all that with Or du Serail, making it a definite stand-out in the genre for me. There are elements that appear later on that I’m not so keen on, and the long drydown isn’t very distinctive with its resemblance to a mix of Tobacco Vanille and Oud Wood, but the first half is fantastic enough to make Or du Serail one of the best examples of a boozy oriental that I’ve tried this year.

17. 

    Source: Wallpaperscraft.com

    O’DRIU PEETY. Peety is a wonderfully bold, animalic oriental centered on multi-faceted tobacco nestled under a thick, heavy layer of sweet honey. There is sweet cinnamon; an endless amount of golden, ambered warmth; small streaks of dry vanilla; and a touch of Seville bitter oranges. If you focus hard, you can detect wisps of green mossiness, syrupy jasmine, and a fruited rose as well. Yet, the main bouquet on my skin, especially from afar, is of honeyed tobacco with a dash of tonka vanilla and strong musky animalics. Later, the subtext changes and Peety takes on nuances of sweet hay, cinnamon, vanilla, spiced gingerbread, dry woodiness, musky leather, a wisp of abstract floralcy, and rich, golden warmth. It is a scent with impressive richness, body, projection, and longevity, though its monolithic intensity does get a little exhausting at times. Still, it is a scent that I strongly recommend to anyone who loves both tobacco and honey, and doesn’t mind a touch of animalics.

18. 

    Source: lewallpaper.com

    LOREE RODKIN GOTHIC I. Gothic I (as in the roman numeral) is a beautiful, deep vanilla fragrance infused with the warmth of spicy patchouli. I’m not a true gourmand in my perfume tastes, but the vanilla here is particularly well done because its dark and relatively dry. Its richness vaguely resembles that in Profumum Roma’s much beloved Dulcis in Fundo, but there is no excessive sweetness, butteriness, or waffle cone tonalities. I think it’s thanks to the addition of spicy patchouli, though Gothic I skews heavily in the direction of vanilla more than patchouli on my skin. I find it to be a perfect cozy scent for winter, bought a bottle for myself, and like to layer it with amber fragrances or leathers. It is a scent I recommend to those who like deep, smooth vanillas cut through with other notes, some spice, dryness, and darkness, but without cloying sugar. As a side note, Gothic II is somewhat similar, but Gothic I is the one that I’d recommend.

19. 

    Source: wallko.com

    INDULT TIHOTA. Pure vanilla, unadulterated by almost anything but a light touch of soft musks, Tihota is seen by many to be the leader in its genre. I’m not a gourmand lover and I initially doubted Tihota could ever live up to its legend, but I was surprised by how much I loved this scent. The key for me is that Tihota is not a creme brulée vanilla encrusted with a heavy amount of caramelized sugar or icing. There is no buttery thickness, either. This is cake batter vanilla with an undercurrent of flour and rich eggs, mixed in with the scent of vanilla cakes taken fresh from the oven, and a touch of snickerdoodle, sugar cookies. Tihota is actually a little too sweet at first for my personal tastes, but that changes after a while. All of it is very light, sheer, and soft, enveloping you in the sweet warmth that I found utterly addictive. I would absolutely buy a bottle for myself if the price were more reasonable for such a simple scent. Then again, I’m not a real gourmand lover, and you do get what you pay for. Since I wrote my review, I’ve tried a few more affordable vanillas, and none of them have Tihota’s quality, smoothness, or lack of synthetics. As pure, soft vanillas go, Tihota really stands out for me.

20. 

    Daria Werbowy by photographers Mert & Marcus for French Vogue, September 2012. Source: tee-vanity.com

    TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID. The core essence of Black Orchid on my skin can be boiled down to: an earthy, musky floral infused with patchouli, black cocoa, a bit of black truffle funk, and multi-faceted elements of darkness, all atop a light layer of vanilla cream. The velvety florals are dusted with dark chocolate, while the patchouli is beautifully refined and spicy. Later, tendrils of incense rise up to curl around the bouquet like a ribbon; woodiness stirs in the base alongside small streaks of something resinously balsamic’ and a cloud of patchouli-vanilla hovers over everything. All in all, I think it’s a complex, interesting scent with great sensuality, a gourmand touch, and more unisex appeal than the marketing would suggest. Like all Tom Ford fragrances, it can be rather polarizing, but I think Black Orchid is a substantially better scent than many of his more expensive Private Blend creations, especially lately. I bought a bottle for myself, though I admit that I don’t wear it frequently since it sometimes feels a little foodie and gourmand for my tastes.

THE NEXT 10 FOR THE LIST OF THE TOP 30:

21. 

    Photo: Andrew Yee for How To Spend It Magazine via FashionGoneRogue.com

    GROSSMITH SHEM-EL-NESSIM. Originally issued in 1906, Shem-el-Nessim was heavily influenced and inspired by Guerlain’s legendary L’Heure Bleue, which came out a few years before. There are definite differences, however, as Shem-el-Nessim is more overtly floral, slightly sweeter, not peppery, woody, or melancholic in any way. Rich neroli orange blossoms swirl together with geranium, roses, deep bergamot, orris, and plush patchouli greenness to create an opulent, luxurious floriental worthy of a queen in a bygone era. I find it truly beautiful, carrying the full weight of its 108 year old history in its powdered floral start, but ending with a very timeless, perhaps even modern, finish of creamy neroli-vanilla mousse. Shem-el-Nessim is not for everyone, but for women who bemoan the loss of the vintage greats, it is a fragrance that they must try. Luca Turin loves it too, and awarded it Four Stars this year.

22. 

    Photo: Wanna Be A Country Cleaver, Megan Cleaver, via Tastykitchen.com

    PARFUMS DE NICOLAI AMBER OUD.  This simple, uncomplicated, misleadingly named lavender-vanilla-patchouli perfume became a small obsession of mine for a while. At its heart, it’s really just lavender ice-cream, despite the claims in its name. (No, there is not an ounce of actual agarwood in this scent. Not one.) I am a bit of a lavender-phobe, but what gets me in the case of Amber Oud is the vanilla, tonka sweetness, and light touches of spicy, brown patchouli. A minuscule sprinkling of golden amber is the final touch to this scent that envelops you in coziness and sweetness. It is like the best parts of Jicky‘s lavender-tonka heart, only without its animalic civet, but with the benefit of deep, warm, lightly spiced, golden patchouli. It is also like a much sweeter, more vanillic, less ambered Fourreau Noir (Serge Lutens), but without the latter’s incense smokiness. It is another fragrance that I bought for myself, and continues to be my favorite from the Nicolai line.

23. 

    Source: the Serge Lutens Facebook page.

    SERGE LUTENS L’INCENDIAIRE. Serge Lutens’ first foray into both pure parfums and the ultra-luxury market is, in essence, a walk through an olfactory hall of mirrors, echoing the scents of his greatest hits from amongst his darkest orientals. Fille en Aiguilles leads the charge, followed by the notorious Serge Noire, while Feminité du Bois brings up the rear. There is a touch of his Boxeuses, too, but none of the oud that some others have encountered in the scent. As time passes, the Lutens classics change their order in the troop formation, but the bottom line remains the same: L’Incendiaire feels like a mixed tape compilation of scents I’ve encountered before, only refined to a polished core and with the trickier elements buffed out. It’s thoroughly enjoyable, particularly as L’Incendiaire covers a good number of my favorite Lutens scents, but I feel rather conflicted because this is a hugely expensive fragrance to be going over old ground. Would I wear it? Absolutely. Would I buy it? No. Am I even tempted? No. But I did thoroughly enjoy it, so I’ve put it on my list. After all, price is a personal, individual consideration.

24. 

    Norman Rockwell’s “Mother Tucking Children Into Bed,” 1921. Source: pinterest.

    ORIZA L. LEGRAND HELIOTROPE BLANC. Childhood pleasures and sweet innocence, captured in a bottle. Heliotrope Blanc surprised me, beguiled me, and charmed me against all odds. So many of its elements are things that I struggle with in perfumery, quite deeply at times, like iris and the avalanche of powder that I would normally run from like the plague. Yet, Heliotrope Blanc turned out to be a cozy snuggle scent that made me think of Mary Poppins, almond milk and marshmallow cream, babies in soft blankets, a mother’s loving embrace as she puts her child to sleep, and childhood treats. The namesake flower smells like just like marshmallows with a touch of fluffy meringues, is infused with almond milk and rice pudding, dusted with mimosas, and then placed upon a base lightly flecked with a touch of resinous smokiness. Later, Heliotrope Blanc turns into marshmallow cream, then into a silky, milky floral musk flecked with vanilla. It’s really lovely, but you have to be a hardcore heliotrope fan to appreciate this scent. I am. If you are, too, you should definitely try it.

25. 

    Source: wallpapers55.com

    CARNER BARCELONA TARDES. Speaking of heliotrope… Tardes is a gorgeous scent but an extremely different one from the Oriza. For one thing, it never feels like a heliotrope soliflore. For another, it’s quite sweet, boozy, and more complex. On my skin, Tardes starts off with as a liqueured cocktail involving rubied roses steeped in Calvados brandy in a wooden cedar vat, infused with almonds, plum, heliotrope, tonka, a hint of pear, and a dash of clean musk, all within a very Frapin 1270-like golden cocoon. Then, Tardes suddenly shifts gears and takes you on a stroll through a geranium patch in the woods, before it ends up as a fluffy, floral cloud of fragrant heliotrope mixed with sweet tonka vanilla. I loved Tardes, and I keep thinking about buying a bottle, but I always hesitate because it does skew a little too sweet for my personal tastes. Still, if you love heliotrope, gourmands, or boozy fragrances, I strongly encourage you to try it for yourself.

26. 

    Mata Hari, 1905, via Pinterest.

    LA VIA DEL PROFUMO (AbdesSalaam Attar) TAWAF. Perhaps the best jasmine soliflore that I’ve tried, Tawaf has a truly spectacular, heady, and narcotic opening of floral richness and sweetness, all infused with a touch of skanky, indolic, blackened naughtiness. The overall effect feels like something wickedly voluptuous. If ever a jasmine were so fleshy that it amounted to a courtesan’s pillowy breasts heaving above the top of a tight corset, it would be Tawaf. There is a decadent excessiveness, overt carnality, and lush ripeness that positively oozes fleshiness. It feels like the perfect scent for one of the greatest seductresses of all time, Mata Hari. Tawaf is a beauty that rather took my breath away, but the problem is that all that headiness fades on my skin after 90 minutes or so, though the drydown is pretty with its soft floralcy, creamy myrrh and beeswax. If the gorgeous opening lasted and if Tawaf didn’t have generally weak sillage, it would be far, far, far higher on this list.

27. 

    Source: reshade.com

    VERO PROFUMO ROZY EDP. Imagine a land where the buildings are hewn from roses, peach, and passion fruit, and musky lovers frolic in gardens where purple hyacinths bloom near green, mossy lawns drizzled with honey. Sweet juices from fleshy peaches mix with tart tanginess from passion fruit, and an almost briny, marshy vetiver. Animalic honey drips on a lover’s skin which gleams with muskiness. Those are some of the various aspects of the Eau de Parfum version of Rozy on my skin, and I loved it. I’m not generally one for rose fragrances, but Rozy is a rare exception, perhaps because it feels more like a lush chypre, even though it doesn’t have any of the traditional elements for such a scent. The dreaded rose lies underneath a wave of earthy, vetiver greenness, tantalizing, always there, but also sufficiently out of reach to avoid being too much for someone with rose issues. That said, I don’t think Rozy is for everyone, primarily because of the musky, earthy accords, as well as the slightly animalic honey. Plus, Vero Profumo scents can be quite polarizing in general, due to their bold, character and the ripe sensuality of some of her signature notes. Some of them don’t work for me personally at all, but I think Rozy is a beautiful, stellar interpretation of both a modern chypre and a slightly skanky fruity-floral.

28. 

    “Venus Verticordia” by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, circa 1864. Source: rossettiarchive.org

    HIRAM GREEN SHANGRI LA. Inspired by Lost Horizons and the utopian paradise of Shangri-La, Hiram Green’s sophomore release is another classical chypre with a modern twist. It alternatively felt like an inviting, warm, romantic scent that evoked visions of peach-covered lovers cavorting in glens made of oakmoss and jasmine, but also, like a modern fragrance centered on Goth black leather in a boudoir made of roses. I had an inexplicable bout with something that smelled like phenolic leather-castoreum in the opening phase of some of my tests, even though there’s no castoreum in the scent at all, but both versions were ultimately very well done. Eventually, they both merge into the same, glamourous bouquet: a floral-leathery chypre with smoky roses and jasmine that reminded me of Montana‘s vintage Parfum de Peau. In the end, it turns into iris suede shot through with spicy-sweet patchouli, along with a quiet muskiness and the faintest hint of a rose-chypre greenness. Shangri La has an extrait-like richness that feels very luxurious, though the perfume actually isn’t that expensive as compared to similar fragrances in the genre. It’s definitely a scent that I would wear myself, and one that I recommend trying if you’re a fan of old-school chypres.

29. 

    Billy Idol. Photo: Kirk West/Getty images, via ivillage.com

    FARMACIA SS. ANNUNZIATA AMBRA NERA. Ambra Nera is far more than the “black amber” that its name implies. Rich woods, spicy patchouli, smoky incense, darkened balsamic resins, animalic warmth, and earthiness are all cocooned in musky ambergris in a way that feels like amber with an edge. While its essence can be over-simplified down to patchouli-amber-woods, Ambra Nera leaves analogous amber or patchouli fragrances in the dust of their golden palaces, where aristocrats lounge near fireplaces sipping cognac. Ambra Nera chooses instead to get on its Harley-Davidson, snarling in black leather like Billy Idol or the Ramones. I see it as a punk rock amber, and it is one of the fragrances on my list of things to buy for myself.

30. 

    Source: Normann Copenhagen. (Link to blog site with recipe for mousse embedded within photo.)

    PROFUMUM ROMA ANTICO CARUSO. Antico Caruso is a stand-out in a line that specializes in rich fragrances. It opens with a retro, barber-shop bouquet centered on powerful, aromatic fougère notes with bright citruses, aromatic herbs, and lavender. The whole thing is dusted off with soapy lather, and is too clean for my personal tastes, but it takes a mere 75 minutes for the opening to fade to a deluge of creaminess that is truly special. Almond custard, equally creamy, soft woods, and airy vanilla mousse lie at the heart of Antico Caruso, pulsating out with silky smoothness for hours to come in a way that is really delicious. What a drydown! I can’t rave enough about that almond-vanilla duet. I thought it was compulsively sniffable.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS:

• NEELA VERMEIRE MOHUR EXTRAIT. Mohur Extrait was actually very high on my 2013 list of favorites, because that is when I actually tried and reviewed the fragrance, but it was technically and officially released this year, so I’m mentioning it again. Mohur Extrait is a gorgeous, va-va-voom queen in the rose genre, and I say that as someone who normally isn’t particularly keen on rose fragrances. The sweet flowers are infused with delicate violets, iris, rich amounts of real Mysore sandalwood, oud, patchouli, cardamom and other spices, almond milk, a hint of carroty sweetness, elemi woods, amber, and soft vanilla. All of it feels romantic, lush, complex, and luxurious. It’s really special.
• ORIZA L. LEGRAND MUGUET FLEURI. Muguet Fleuri is a softer, floral, dewy, lily-of-the-valley cousin to Chypre Mousse with strong similarities to vintage Diorissimo (which it actually predates). It is a very Spring-like fragrance that evokes fairy forests of green where delicate lilies of the valley sway in the wind like bells, releasing crystal-clear chimes of floral sweetness and dewy liquidity. Its clean, fresh greenness is also imbued with wild violets and a light touch of powder. All of it is really well-done, and Muguet Fleuri stands out amidst the many green scents that I’ve tried this year.
• SHL 777 SOLEIL DU JEDDAH. Soleil de Jeddah is a supernova of ultra-bright, glowing citruses, tangy fruits, green touches, and richness, all flecked with iris, more iris, chamomile, and a touch of woodiness before being placed on a base of darkened, smoky leatheriness. I’m not generally one for citric or fruity fragrances, but it’s hard for one’s jaw not to drop at the concentrated richness, sunniness, and brightness of this perfume’s opening.
• GUERLAIN CUIR BELUGA. Cuir Beluga is a cashmere cloud of cream and pink, with the soothing comfort of Mary Poppins telling you take a spoonful of sugar at bedtime. It’s an absolutely addictive mix of marzipan treats, powdered heliotrope meringues, and vanilla milk, but it fades away to a lingering whisper all too quickly on my skin. Were it not for Cuir Beluga’s weak sillage and iffy longevity, it would be much higher on this list, as I think it’s lovely. Fellow fans of heliotrope really should try this one. Just don’t expect an actual leather scent, because this is most definitely not one, in my opinion.
• ROJA DOVE ENIGMA POUR HOMME OR CREATION-E. Enigma is a boozy, brandy-infused, spiced plum pudding that is dusted with spicy, crystallized ginger, then flecked with amber, vanilla, cardamom, more ginger, and soft cocoa. It’s a very rich fragrance with distant kinship to Tom Ford‘s Tobacco Vanille, Kilian‘s Apple Brandy, and Serge Lutens‘ Fille en Aiguilles, all rolled into one. I should have adored Enigma, but there was a streak of aroma-chemicals (probably from the tobacco) that appeared in the base when I applied a smaller quantity of the scent. Even without that though, Enigma doesn’t move me personally for some strange reason, perhaps because it is a little too much like boozy Christmas plum pudding and Tobacco Vanille at times. Still, it’s a very opulent, regal fragrance, there is no denying its quality, and there are parts of it that I found to be really appealing, so it’s a scent worth mentioning.
• FARMACIA SS. ANNUNZIATA VANIGLIA DEL MADAGASCAR. The core of Vaniglia del Madagascar is creamy, sweet vanilla with smoke, multi-faceted inflections, and a hushed breath. It is a slow-burn scent that requires patience, but one which eventually blooms into something that is very pretty. I’m not crazy about its overly sweet opening which is caramelized, candied vanilla infused with brisk, fresh lemons, but things improve after 3 or 4 hours when the fragrance turns into vanilla silk with a wisp of amber and touch of dark, dry smokiness. This isn’t my perfect vanilla by any means, but Vaniglia did make me sit up and take notice, and I even contemplating a large decant at one point, so I’m putting it on my list.
• SHL 777 ROSE DE PETRA. A spiced, rich, smoky, dusty rose fragrance that begins with similarities to Malle’s Portrait of a Lady (but far better) before transitioning to an Amouage-like Lyric–Epic combination. I’m not one for rose-centric fragrances, but Rose de Petra caught my attention with its many nuances and elegant nature.

There are a few other fragrances that I contemplated listing in the Honourable Mentions because they all had some element that appealed to me. For example, the drydown in Serge Lutens‘ L’Orpheline with its surprising sandalwood-like bouquet; the smoky woods in SHL 777‘s Oumma; the patchouli parts of Roja Dove‘s Danger; the spicier aspects of DSH Perfumes‘ soft, more innocent version of Opium called Euphorisme d’Opium; and all of Santa Maria Novella‘s Nostalgia which is a scent I like as a whole but whose diesel opening is surprisingly appealing. There are others, too, like the lovely opening of LM Parfums‘ new Epine Mortelle that I talked about in my 2014 best new releases list. However, this list has become ridiculously long, even for someone with my OCD love of details, so I’ll end it here.

Happy new year, and I hope to see you in 2015!