Tauer Perfumes Une Rose Chyprée: Bewitching Opulence

“‘Tis the last rose of summer,” once wrote the famous 19th-century Irish poet, Thomas Moore, in a poem that later inspired everyone from Beethoven to Felix Mendelssohn. The line definitely comes to mind when I wore Une Rose Chyprée, a spectacular chypre-oriental hybrid that features an autumnal, amber rose. Yet, that is only one part of the story.

Source: npr.org

Source: npr.org

At the same time, Une Rose Chyprée also conjured up everything from a coquettish, youthful, warm Audrey Hepburn in the 1960s, to thoughts of a woman’s warm, heated flesh as revealed by an opulent, dramatic dress cut low enough to seduce. It is a scent that is surprisingly playful and welcoming for a chypre — normally a very cool, haughty, aloof fragrance family — but Une Rose Chyprée is graced by an oriental seductiveness as well. I’m not one who goes weak in the knees for chypres, let alone scents that are primarily rose-centric in nature, but Une Rose Chyprée may be the best rose I have smelled in years and it completely swept me off my feet.

Source: Tauer Perfumes

Source: Tauer Perfumes

Une Rose Chyprée (sometimes written as “08 Une Rose Chyprée“) is an eau de parfum released in 2009 by Andy Tauer, the founder and nose behind the much-adored Swiss niche house, Tauer PerfumesOn Fragrantica, the fragrance is classified as chypre floral, but it seems more accurate to me to call it a chypre-oriental hybrid. The Tauer website supports this impression, describing Une Rose Chyprée as:

An exclusive oriental rose on a vintage chypre chord.
Une Rose Chyprée is a modern vintage perfume. It reaches back to the craft of traditional high perfumery, using a luxurious setting of raw materials. At the same time, I wanted it to be a rose of today, that speaks our language.

According to Luckyscent, the notes in Une Rose Chyprée include:

Rosa Damascena Absolute and essential oil, Bay, Cinnamon, Bergamot, Lemon, Clementine, Bourbon Geranium, Labdanum, Oak Moss, Patchouli, Vetiver, and Vanilla.

Geranium pratense leaf, close-up. Source: Wikicommons

Geranium pratense leaf, close-up. Source: Wikicommons

I tested Une Rose Chyprée three times, and, each time, it opens on my skin with a bouquet that’s so sultry and exquisite, it feels like a growl that eventually turns into a sensuous purr. There is smoky incense intertwined with the peppery, spicy bite of fuzzy, green geranium leaves, followed by tart, green, unripe lemons and rose. The rose begins this journey as something green and mossy, but soon takes on a bubblegum, fruity undertone. There are momentary flickers of a purple grape underlying the flower’s tightly closed bud, perhaps from the patchouli or something like methyl anthranilate, but they are soon replaced by hints of sweet clementine.

Photo: Arbyreed on Flickr, (Website link embedded within, click on photo.)

Photo: Arbyreed on Flickr, (Website link embedded within, click on photo.)

Every part of the citrus is there: the sweet, sun-ripened, heavy pulp; the squirting oil of its zested, slightly bitter rind; and the candied flesh, crystallized with hints of dark, earthy, chewy, black patchouli. The smorgasborg of notes swirls into the geranium, adding brightness to its piquant verdancy in a combination that has me utterly enraptured. Sweet but peppered, orange but green, zesty but spicy, sun-laden warmth but fuzzy, leafy darkness. It’s a chiaroscuro of light and dark that weaves its intoxicating, unexpected, and original thread throughout a good portion of Une Rose Chyprée’s early hours, and I can’t get enough.

Source: wallpapersnatural.com

Source: wallpapersnatural.com

At the heart of Une Rose Chyprée’s tapestry is the rose. It swirls all around you in a veiled shimmer of greens, garnet red, earthiness, and mossy trees — all rolled into one. This is a green rose whose petals were crushed into the damp, wet soil of the forest floor; a rose that lies nestled amidst fresh, just slightly mineralized, faintly bittersweet mosses; a rose infused with the concentrated essence of a thousand dark green, slightly spicy, peppered leaves, then sprinkled with hints of alternatively tart and zesty citruses. It is a rose that is fruited, but spiced with cinnamon, and wrapped with the tendrils of black incense. It is a rose that smells like bubblegum at times, like grapes once in a while, and even like bananas or earthy mushrooms in different tests.   

Une Rose Chyprée is a swirling kaleidoscope of all those things, and then some. This is a fragrance with so many facets and dimensions, it made my head spin. It made me test the perfume twice, doubting that it was possible that I was accurately smelling such nuances (bubblegum? mushrooms?), and it left me quite awed. It was so fabulous, I have worn it for a third time, almost draining my sample that a very kind, generous reader of the blog — the lovely “Dubaiscents” — gave me as a gift. I even went to see what The Ultimate Perfume Snobs — aka, my parents — thought of it, and if you think my reaction is fervent, you should have seen theirs! My father actually put Tristan und Isolde on pause to ask about the perfume — and few things distract my father from his Wagner.

Source: hqwalpapers.com

Source: hqwalpapers.com

I think the real appeal of Une Rose Chyprée is that it’s not a haughty fragrance. A number of classic or vintage chypres keep you at a distance with oakmoss that can be coldly pungent, fusty, or slightly dusty, or with galbanum that can feel as sharp as the crack of black leather whip. Une Rose Chyprée is almost a coquettish chypre that beckons you with a sweet smile, despite the emeralds and rubies glowing around her elegant, rosy throat. The perfume’s opening is that of a chypre suited to Audrey Hepburn whose slim elegance and classic style never hid her sparkling, elfish beauty and approachable warmth. From Eliza Doolittle going to the ball in a tiara, to Holly Golightly, to Audrey herself in her perfect little black Givenchy dress with a radiant smile, Une Rose Chyprée combines the refined elegance of a classic chypre with a warmth that is open, modern, bright, and always approachable.

It’s not all a bed of roses, however. There are thorns in the form of a synthetic or two that lurks in the perfume’s base. At first, around the 40-minute mark, there is merely a sharp note that is hard to pinpoint, but which gives me a dull ache behind my eyes. It feels woody, but not exactly like ISO E Super at first. Soon, unfortunately, the aroma-chemical’s telltale peppery, humming buzz makes itself noticeable, along with a rhythmic jack-knife drilling through my skull. It lasts for hours and, since I don’t always get an ISO E Super headache unless there is a hell of a lot of the synthetic at play, I rue one more time Mr. Tauer’s love for the bloody note. (No, Mr. Tauer, not everyone thinks it serves as a wonderful photoshop-like finishing touch!) Given the forcefulness of the synthetic carrion vulture circling around my head, I suspect that there is something else going on as well, like Ambroxan. Whatever the specific synthetics in question, it’s a testament to Une Rose Chyprée that I don’t care in the slightest. That says a lot. Regular readers know that I think the rampant use of ISO E Super in perfumery is akin to an outbreak of the Bubonic Plague, and that I despise the majority of fragrances that include it. But Une Rose Chyprée is special.

Around the same time that the devil’s chemical minions pop up their blasted head, Une Rose Chyprée starts to slowly morph. First, it’s just a question of feel, as the notes start to blur and overlap each other. Then, the fragrance starts to turn more gauzy, like a sheer veil of garnet red and mossy green gliding in the air like a kite. Yet, despite the breezy weight of the fragrance, Une Rose Chyprée is incredibly potent and pulsates its bouquet out across a room in a beautiful juxtaposition of airiness with strength. Perhaps the best way to describe it is like a cloud that billows out several feet around you, with notes that reflect brightness, lightness and dark.

Vanilla Custard. Source: Sacchef's Blog.

Vanilla Custard.
Source: Sacchef’s Blog.

Another change is that Une Rose Chyprée starts to manifest faintly gourmand undertones. Vanilla starts to rise to the surface; it’s beautifully creamy, rich, and custardy, with such a ripe sweetness that it almost takes on a banana custard aspect on occasion. At the same time, a sugared, floral powder quality creeps into the scent. When it combines with the vanilla custard, the sun-sweetened clementine, the rose, geranium, and the cinnamon, the result is something that actually smells of pink bubblegum. One reason may stem from the patchouli which feels fruity on occasion, but whatever the cause, there is a definite candied, pink, bubblegum tonality to the rose that manifested itself on all three occasions that I tested Une Rose Chyprée. Somehow, it adds to the fragrance’s playful, flirtatious open side, underscoring once again what an unusual sort of chypre this is and how it straddles different perfume families.

"Rose Reflections" by HocusFocusClick on Flickr. (Click on photo for website link which is embedded within).

“Rose Reflections” by HocusFocusClick on Flickr. (Click on photo for website link which is embedded within).

Yet, despite the quiet, fruited undertones, Une Rose Chyprée is still primarily a rose scent with green notes that are wrapped up in a ribbon of black smokiness. A third verdant element pops up around the 90-minute mark: vetiver. It’s simultaneously a bit earthy, musky, and rooty all in one, a swirl of dark greens and browns. I suspect that it’s responsible for the occasional mushroom nuance I detect, but what makes it really special is the way it interacts with the vanilla. Vetiver and vanilla are an old, established combination in perfumery, but it’s done extremely well here in conjunction with the other notes. It works particularly well with the flickers of spicy, peppered geranium leaves and the fading whisper of juicy citruses. And, somewhere in this complicated, unusual, multi-faceted mix is a hint of beeswax from the labdanum.

Source: fr.123rf.com

Source: fr.123rf.com

The beeswax heralds the arrival of the final, and most substantial, change to the fragrance. One hour and forty-five minutes into Une Rose Chyprée’s development, the amber becomes prominent, lending a golden hue to the rose’s glossy garnet and mossy, emerald gleam. The labdanum here doesn’t have any of its usual, typical characteristics; it has no leathery, nutty, animalic, musky, masculine or dirty undertones. Instead, it’s merely a smooth, rich glow, infused with that sweet vanilla custard and a tinge of fruited patchouli. Resinously deep, it sweeps through the fragrance like a coursing river of molten, amber lava flecked with hints of cinnamon, beeswax, vanilla, and earthy vetiver. As the sweeter, warmer elements surge forward, the geranium-oakmoss-clementine trio weaken in strength, and Une Rose Chyprée loses some of its youthful, coquettish playfulness. Slowly, the fragrance starts to turn into an Oriental that is more seductive and openly sensual.

The labdanum grows stronger and stronger until, at the start of the fifth hour, it completely transforms that mossy, smoky, slightly bubblegum, fruited rose. Une Rose Chyprée has become primarily an amber scent, emitting a caramel tonality mixed with vanilla custard, patchouli, and a hint of floral powder. The rose is almost wholly abstract now, feeling like a supporting player on the sidelines. The green notes have receded or faded completely away, leaving a scent that is resinous and almost chewy in feel. The patchouli that was once almost fruity has now turned into my absolute favorite kind: black, dark, faintly spiced, lightly musky and smoky, and completely chewy. It folds and melts into the amber and vanilla custard, creating a very sexy, sumptuously rich scent.

Dior Couture. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier for "Dior Couture," a  book by Ingrid Sischy, Patrick Demarchelier.

Dior Couture. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier for “Dior Couture,” a book by Ingrid Sischy, Patrick Demarchelier.

Something about the fragrance’s dramatic opulence and warm, sensuous creaminess makes me think of the suggestion of a woman’s golden, musky, voluptuous flesh languidly spilling out from a deep décolleté. Une Rose Chyprée is no longer a gamine, playful Audrey Hepburn rose. Instead, it’s now an oriental seductress in an amber and patchouli haute couture ball gown tantalizing you with suggestions of heated warmth and musky, sweet abandon. And the fragrance remains that way until its very end. Around the 7.5 hour mark, the fragrance turns into a hazy blur of golden sweetness that hovers right above the skin. Powdery touches (that I really don’t like) come and go, until the 9th hour, when Une Rose Chyprée begins its final change into a simple wisp of lightly powdered amber.

All in all, Une Rose Chyprée consistently lasted over 12 hours on my perfume-consuming skin. During the first test, I applied 4 large smears of the scent, and the perfume lasted well over 16.5 hours. The sillage was monstrously huge, wafting a good 2-3 feet across the room, and it remained that way until the 5th hour when it dropped to about 3-4 inches above the skin. Even when Une Rose Chyprée was closer to the skin, it was still extremely potent. In fact, the fragrance only became a skin scent on me around the middle of the 9th hour. All in all, the longevity was utterly astounding, especially given how voraciously my skin eats perfume, but it is also further proof of the synthetics underlying the mix.

The second time around, I applied my usual quantity of two large smears, and Une Rose Chyprée lasted just over 12.75 hours. There was a difference in the perfume’s development, as the ISO E Super seemed substantially more prominent, and the top notes (particularly the geranium-moss-clementine accord) were significantly weaker. By the same token, the perfume seemed much smokier and a wee bit more spiced at a lower dosage, while the fruited notes were more muted. In addition, the powdery quality to the fragrance crept in much sooner, as did the resinous amber undertones. In short, if you use a small quantity of Une Rose Chyprée, your skin may not bring out the fragrance’s top notes in quite the same way and the fragrance may lose some of its more beautiful nuances. Other than those small issues of strength and timing, the core essence of Une Rose Chyprée remained unchanged. With the lesser dosage, the sillage dropped faster, and the fragrance became a skin scent around the 6th hour, but it was always very potent in feel and it still lasted an incredibly long time.

My experiences with Une Rose Chyprée differs from that of a few people. For one thing, there are dramatically polar opposite accounts about the perfume’s sillage and duration. On both Luckyscent and Fragrantica, a number of people think the perfume simply doesn’t last and has weak projection. In fact, going by the votes on Fragrantica, the majority find the Une Rose Chyprée’s longevity is merely “moderate.” Even more people, combined, think that the perfume’s duration is “poor” or “weak.” My response to that is the same as one disbelieving reviewer’s reaction: I “can’t believe what im seeing.” The explanation may lay in the quantity used. My own experiences, and the 2nd test in particular, make me think that applying a very drop or two of the fragrance will curtail its potency, in addition to hiding its nuances and layers. Still, skin chemistry is a tricky and deeply individual thing, so be warned that some people have problems with Une Rose Chyprée’s projection and duration.

As for the fragrance itself, general commentators seem split on its appeal, with some finding it to be too heavy and old, while others think it is the most beautiful, “extravagant” or “3D” rose they’ve encountered. It will all depend on your benchmarks. I wouldn’t recommend Une Rose Chyprée to anyone looking for a light, fresh rose fragrance, nor to those looking for something edgy, revolutionary, or quirky. Une Rose Chyprée was intentionally created to be a modern twist on a very classic, traditional style of perfumery, and it succeeds in that goal beautifully. This is a fragrance with a heavy, vintage feel, so those who want a light, youthful, simple fruity-floral should not bother one iota. But, if you’re looking for an over-the-top glowing jewel of a rose that throws out more notes than a diamond hit by the sun, or if you’re looking for an opulent scent with a wickedly sensuous, seductive, “come hither” allure, then Une Rose Chyprée is for you. I’d also like add that anyone who was deeply disappointed in Frederic Malle‘s much-vaunted (and, in my opinion, hugely over-hyped) rose fragrance, Portrait of a Lady, should run to try Mr. Tauer’s stunner. This is how it’s done!

Ava Gardner.

Ava Gardner.

If you think all this fuss is from a blogger with an over-active imagination, you’d be mistaken. For one thing, as I said at the start, I don’t particularly like rose fragrances to begin with, and chypres are not my favorite category. More importantly, however, reviews from everyday perfume users gush just as much about the fragrance as do all the bloggers out there (and trust me, the bloggers lose their knickers for Une Rose Chyprée). On MakeupAlley, where the fragrance has a perfect 5.0 score with 8 reviews, one apt description of the scent succinctly reads:

This fragrance is gorgeous and dark. It is sexy, animalic, and gutsy. If I had to give you a visual, I would say Ava Gardner in her prime.
Haunting, fascinating, utterly gorgeous.

I personally would go with 1950s Audrey Hepburn for the fragrance’s chypre opening stage, but let’s not quibble. She’s absolutely and completely right about Ava Gardner for the middle and end stages.

That said, don’t interpret these comparisons as something that feels dated and old. Another raving MakeupAlley review talks about how the scent felt just as appropriate in a grunge pit and jazz club, as it did at the opera:

I tend to avoid roses as they are often too pink and polite to my nose [….]. Une Rose Chyprée is different. Despite its wide range of notes that feel like a salute to different fragrance families, it is a unique interpretation that does not have a futile attempt to satisfy the chyprée and gourmand lovers at the same time- how horrendous would that be! On the contary, it is a tremendous blend that hints at an intelligent crossroad but does its own thing in a versatile way. On me, the oakmoss base gives a fantastic depth to the vintage rose but the result is just like modern classical music sounds to my ears. I am a music lover and I have worn this to the opera. I felt like I was dressed in velvet. I wore it to a couple of grunge and noise gigs with deep V necks and felt super accessible and unreachable at the same time. It also goes well with jazz clubs. My next plan is to stock this masterpiece, be forced to declare bankruptcy and feel completely untouchable at the courtroom i.e. I am addicted.

Finally, if any of these references or photos make you think that guys can’t pull off Une Rose Chyprée, think again. But don’t take just my word for it; the award-winning blogger, Persolaise, thinks so, too. In a comment on Basenotes (where Une Rose Chyprée has a 91% approval rating), he gives it 5-stars and writes:

The ghosts of all the old, bewitching Guerlains are to be found in Une Rose Chyprée, a pitch-perfect manifestation of pure sensuality. My initial reaction to it was to let out a gasp of astonishment and exclaim, “I don’t think I’ve got enough noses with which to smell this.” Yes, in simplistic terms, it’s a rose, but then, a rose is a rose is a rose… Earthy and sparkling, this is a substance of gilt-edged richness, which also accomplishes the feat of remaining unabashedly unisex throughout its development.

I completely agree. Une Rose Chyprée is unabashedly unisex with the luxurious, opulent quality and elegance of a vintage Guerlain, while still retaining a very modern drama and oomph. It’s got a refined elegance that turns into a deep-throated growl of sensuality. And it has enough prismatic nuances that you will, indeed, think you need a few more noses with which to smell it.

Source: hdwallpaperes.com

Source: hdwallpaperes.com

One downside to the fragrance is that it’s not cheap for the small size at $140 for a 30 ml/ 1 oz bottle. That said, it is an eau de parfum in concentration, and a tiny amount of Une Rose Chyprée goes a long, long way. Plus, the ingredients are extremely expensive. At the fragrance’s launch in 2009, Mr. Tauer said that each hand-packaged bottle contains one pound of steam-distilled rose petals, as well as rosa damascena absolute. In one of his recent blog entries, he wrote that his rose base “comes to 450 Francs per kilo. That’s the price you have to pay for a real rose base. Actually, compared to the rose absolute per se it is a bargain (rose absolute sells for about 4000 $ [.]” That costly rose damascena absolute is a big part of Une Rose Chyprée, as well. In short, the reason why the fragrance costs so much is the same reason why the rose glows like a jewel: it’s got the real stuff in there, and in huge quantities to boot.

I could write several thousand more words about the beauty of this scent, and why it feels so special. I’ll spare you that. The bottom line is that Une Rose Chyprée may be, at its heart, an essentially simple green-then-ambered rose, but it’s greater than the sum of its parts. To expand on the line from the poet, Thomas Moore, ’tis the last rose of summer whose refined green-red brightness has now given way into autumn’s sultry red-golden amber. It’s also the sexiest, most compelling, addictive, mesmerizing, bewitching rose-centric scent that this rose-skeptic has smelled in a long, long time. I bow down at Mr. Tauer’s feet in utter admiration.

Cost & Availability: Une Rose Chyprée is an eau de parfum that comes in a 30 ml/1 oz bottle that costs $140 or €95.60 (if purchased from the Tauer website). In the U.S.: you can buy Une Rose Chyprée from Luckyscent or MinNewYork, as well as directly from Tauer Perfumes where it is cheaper at $128.60. (See further details down below in the Tauer section.) Luckyscent also sell a sample vial for $3, and MiN for $5. Samples are available from The Perfumed Court as well, starting at $8.99 for a 1/2 ml vial. It is not sold at Surrender to Chance. Outside the U.S.: In Canada, the full line of Tauer Perfumes is available at Saltridges which sells Une Rose Chyprée for CAD$168. I think Saltridges may be the exclusive Canadian vendor for Tauer, but I’m not sure. In Europe, you can find Une Rose Chyprée at France’s Premiere Avenue for €99, while Germany’s First in Fragrance sells the perfume for €105.00. It too carries samples. In the UK, Les Senteurs sells Une Rose Chyprée for £99.00, along with samples. In Italy, you can find the fragrance at Vittoria Profumi which sells Une Rose Chyprée for €104. In Russia, the Tauer line of fragrances is available at 1st Original. The Tauer website’s store locator also provides locations in over 10 countries — ranging from France and the Netherlands to Russia, Singapore, the UK, Poland, Romania, Spain and more — where its products are available. You can find that list of stores here.
Cost & Availability from the Tauer Website: The Tauer Perfumes website lists the cost of the 30 ml/1 oz bottle as: Fr. 118.00 / USD 128.60 / EUR 95.60. Tauer Perfumes also sells a sample 1.5 ml/ 0.05 oz glass vial of Une Rose Chyprée for: Fr. 5.00 / USD 5.50 / EUR 4.10. Though they used to ship to most places in the world, you need to know that they can’t ship to a number of places in Europe right now. The website explains that they can only ship to customers in Switzerland, France, Germany and Austria and cannot ship “Great Britain, UK, Russia, Belgium and the Czech Republic.” As a side note, the Tauer website also sells a sample Discovery Set of 5 different Tauer perfumes (for free shipping to most places in the world) which you can choose at will for: Fr. 31.00 / USD 33.80 / EUR 25.10. The website provides the following information:
Free selection: It is your choice to pick a set of 5 DISCOVERY SIZE perfume samples in glass spray vials. 1.5 ml each (0.75 ml of 0.75 ml of UNE ROSE CHYPRÉE or UNE ROSE VERMEILLE or CARILLON POUR UN ANGE) are at your disposal. Pick any scents from the Tauer perfumes range. The amounts of 1.5 (0.75 ml) are minimal amounts. Usually , we will ship around 2 ml (1ml). The DISCOVERY size vials are spray vials and will allow you to enjoy our fragrances for several days.Packaging: The DISCOVERY SET comes in a glide-cover metal box for optimal protection.Shipment: This product ships for free within 24 hours after we received your order world wide. Exceptions: Italy, United Kingdom, Russia, Belgium, Czech Republic.

49 thoughts on “Tauer Perfumes Une Rose Chyprée: Bewitching Opulence

  1. I do not dislike Une Rose Chyprée but I just do not see (well, smell) all those wonderful facets you’ve described. It’s ok, I guess. I really like Mr. Tauer’s personality and respect his work. But just as a consumer, not as an abstract connoisseur, I could never agree with “This is how it’s done” part: I would take my PoaL over URC any day and twice on Sundays. Sorry.

    • I know how much you love your Malle/Portrait of a Lady. 🙂 And I think the world would collapse if we ever agreed on a rose scent. In fact, the area where our tastes diverge the most may be with regard to florals, from iris to roses to lilies, tuberose, etc. In fact, I think the one single floral scent that we’ve ever really agreed upon — in every possible way — was Serge Lutens’ De Profundis, no? LOL.

      BTW, what do you mean by your comment regarding “‘This is how it’s done’ part”? I’m afraid you lost me there.

      • It was a direct quote from the review above:
        “I’d also like add that anyone who was deeply disappointed in Frederic Malle‘s much-vaunted (and, in my opinion, hugely over-hyped) rose fragrance, Portrait of a Lady, should run to try Mr. Tauer’s stunner. This is how it’s done!” Being a fan of PoaL and not that much of URC I disagreed 😉

        And yes, it looks like our floral tastes go really far apart. Though both you and I kind of liked Amouage Lyric.

        • Ah, got it now!! I became completely confused because I thought you were talking about Mr. Tauer in a continuation of the part of your comment where you said, “I really like Mr. Tauer’s personality and respect his work. But just as a consumer, not as an abstract connoisseur, I could never agree with “This is how it’s done” part[.]” I must have misread, or I’m just really tired — or both. LOL. Thanks for clarifying, and yes, the “This is how it’s done” is all me and my wholly subjective opinion! 😀

          As for Lyric, yes, we both sorta liked it but it wasn’t at all a rose scent on me. It was almost solely ylang-ylang. Hardcore rose fragrances generally aren’t my thing at all, unless they’re almost totally covered in something else entirely. I’ll take roses that are laden under with leather, incense smoke, spices, tar, amber, oriental notes, but when the primary, heavy focus is a floral or floral-chypre rose? No way. LOL! Une Rose Chyprée is definitely an exception.

  2. Wow, I had no idea you would love this one so much! I am so glad I included it at the last minute when I was making up samples for you. It must be quite a perfume for you to rave about it despite getting a headache at one point. And I love the comment about your father pausing Wagner to ask about it – a true compliment if I ever did see one! I also get really excellent sillage and longevity with this – I can’t believe there are people who don’t. 30 mL of this is going to last forever which, definitely makes the price worth it. I love this one a lot but, there is a point at the start where I get that “Tauerade” scent that is a mix of citrus and incense and something….. which I don’t like so much but, I am happy to wait it out for the rest of the gorgeousness! You also make me want to do a side by side comparison with PoaL since I never thought of these having any real similarities (except that they both have rose) and I do love both of them. This is such a beautiful review – well done!

    • I don’t think there are any real similarities to Malle’s Portrait of a Lady, at least not the way the latter developed on me. Both fragrances are rose scents that are chypre-oriental hybrids, that’s it. But a lot of guys try POAL thinking it’s going to be their perfect rose or rose chypre fragrance, and judging by the comments when I reviewed it, the result was disappointment for more than one person. I was actually surprised by just *how* many people didn’t like the perfume at all. So, for people who aren’t rose lovers or for whom POAL was an unsuccessful chypre-oriental, then this one may be more successful.

      As for the Tauer, I think the longevity is excellent on all his fragrances, but this one seemed to be exceptional. I couldn’t believe comments on Luckyscent that said it died out after 3 hours and had no sillage! Skin chemistry is a damn funny thing! My only issues with the scent are the ISO E Super (and probably Ambroxan, but that’s less of an issue), and the powderiness at the end, but I love it so much, I have to stop myself from finishing the vial. I can’t thank you enough for your generosity! You know, I have a sample of Tauer’s Rose Incensée, and I can’t wait to see how it compares, but, for me, the geranium-clementine part of URC is part of what made it so enchanting. Compulsively sniffable!

  3. I’m surprised you loved it so much, but am so glad. So, the weird thing is I could have sworn I had and tried a sample, but remember nothing about it. Reading this makes me want to call in sick, dig through my billion samples, and find it. But since I don’t remember it, perhaps I’m thinking of Tauer’s Une Rose Vermeille. Yours is not the only stellar review I’ve heard of this one, so if I don’t have a sample, I’ll definitely need to get one. On a shallow note, I do love the bottle with the lovely caramel-ish color and glass beads. I’ve also been tempted by Carillon pour un Ange lately.

    But I prattle on, as always. Thanks for such a detailed review of this. It sounds stellar, and I don’t go ga-ga for rose either (though I do like it sometimes). As a huge fan of Tauer’s scents (largely, though there are a few exceptions), I look forward to trying this – or re-trying it as the case may be.

    • I remember you trying and talking about Une Rose Vermeille, but I don’t recall you talking about this one. Maybe my memory is off, which is more than possible. You do have a gazillion samples, after all. lol. I would send you the rest of my sample, but I’m holding onto every remaining drop like some sort of crazed addict. *grin* As for Carrillon Pour Un Ange, I’m surprised you’ve held out this long, since you seem to LOVE that one with a passion! But Kevin, I tell you, from start to finish, this one is gorgeous. The Clementine-Geranium Leaves combo at the start….. mmmmm, such a special feel of green, mossy plushness with a twist. And then, when the labdanum kicks in and the fragrance turns ambered, so lovely. The funny thing is that, for all that labdanum is one of my favorite notes, the chypre part at the start with all the smoke and that multi-faceted rose, is what’s really bowled me over the most.

      • I’m glad your memory is better than mine! I think I just hemmed and hawed over buying a sample of this one, then! If you remember me talking about URV, then that’s the one I had. I’m having someone send me a sample of Une Rose Chyprée – I can’t say I blame you for hoarding yours! I am so excited to smell it. I, too, am surprised to have waited for Carillon pour un Ange. What’s stopping me is I’m not sure I’d wear it often, although perhaps I think that because I hoard the current sample I have so that I can keep using it. LOL. I’m back on my no-buy after a number of birthday indulgences – both in perfume and non-perfume. But Christmas is around the corner…:)

        • Tried it today, and even though my initial opinion was based on the wrong scent – I’m still really surprised you liked it, *especially* based on the opening! I personally found the opening to be quite full of aldehydes, hence my surprise at your adoration. After that, it settles down nicely with some spiced goodness that I really enjoy. But with all that said, sillage is very low on me and I’m not sure it will last too long on my skin, unfortunately. Ultimately, I like it, but I won’t be weeping once my sample is gone. I suppose my wallet is thankful for that fact!

          • Aldehydes????!!!!! Wow, not on me at all. And you know how my skin normally takes a small amount, runs with it, and turns it into a complete soap bath! Well, at least your wallet is safe. Thank goodness for your skin that eats up sillage for breakfast! But, seriously, aldehydes??? Wow. I’m so grateful my skin spared me that. I wore it 3 times, and not once was I subjected to one of my nemesis notes. (Phew!)

          • I know, right? I mean, unless my understanding of aldehydes is wrong – but I don’t think it is, because it was evocative of No. 22, Tauer’s Miriam, etc. I did like it better than all of those, but I still got them in very strong amounts. Thank goodness for my wallet, yes, but Carillon pour un Ange still looms large, beckoning me. 😛

          • Oh lordie, if this were evocative of No. 22 or Miriam on my skin, I think my reaction would have been very different! Thank God for skin differences. LOLOLOL!

            You know, I’ve got a betting pool in my head on how long you’re going to hold out on Carillon pour Un Ange, and how long before you succumb. *grin*

  4. I have been looking for a rose that lights my fire. Could this be the one? The development you describe hits all the notes I would like to notice in a rose perfume. Thank you. I needed this….

  5. Looove this, it’s my favorite Tauer hands down. Is it me or does it have that opulent original Opium vibe? I get that from URC and maybe that’s why I knew dear Kafka, you would fall in love with this.

    • I don’t get an Opium vibe (Sacrilege! Heresy! LOL!!!), but I know fully what you mean in terms of its opulence, especially at the middle/end. And you know, I’m not surprised that you love this one at all, Vicky, as it suits you and your perfume style very well. 🙂

      • It’s a rich rose, and I will be wearing it more when it quits being a gazillion degrees here. G*d willing, I’ll be able to buy a FB once the weather turns cooler. Fingers crossed! It’s a beauty.

        • Fingers crossed indeed!!! The thing is, I actually feel Une Rose Chyprée may benefit a little from the heat as it would bring out some of the smoke, amber, and the many green layers. No? Yes? You should test it and see. I think a lot of fragrances with an amber or smoke heart can really bloom in warmer temperatures.

  6. I liked this one, but it was Une Rose Vermeille that really captured my heart and caused me to reach for my wallet. As for rose scents, I am also a fan of FM Une Rose and FM Portrait of a Lady, among others… I am a rose fan in most of its iterations. There are some that turn sour on me (Guerlain Rose Nacrée and SL Sa Majesté la Rose notably) but those are exceptions.

    • I’m glad there is a Tauer rose that stole your heart. 🙂 As for rose scents, I didn’t like Guerlain’s Rose Nacrée either, but then I haven’t liked ANY of the new, modern Guerlains. SL’s Sa Majesté La Rose was one I enjoyed, but it’s still not a scent I would actually wear. Traditional rose scents don’t really steal my heart. You’re much luckier in that you adore the note, so you have a lot of options. 🙂

  7. I must try this one. I love a good rose and I love a good chypre and I love Ava Gardner and Audrey Hepburn so how can I resist? I won’t try. I’ll just submit.

    • I would never recommend blind buying ANY perfume!!! Don’t do it for this one either, Cohibadad, lest you are one of the few who does have sillage or longevity issues, or for whom the fragrance isn’t as complex as it was on my skin. But I definitely and absolutely urge you to get a sample! The thing is, he also has a Rose Incensé which I’ll be reviewing next week, so that one may work more for you. I don’t know, but hold off on buying a full bottle of anything untested, my dear!

  8. ISO E Super should definitely be re-named ‘synthetic Carrion Vulture’. Genius 🙂 This must have been one hell of a scent for you to fight your way though the pain and still enthuse about it at the end! I love it when you love perfume Kafka, your writing really comes to life and your descriptive language is truly great. A brilliant review 🙂

    • Oh, thank you for your wonderful kind words. It really means a lot to me, dear Susie! It’s easier to write about something you really love, but my problem is that it rarely happens. LOL! As for “Synthetic Carrion Vulture,” do you think I can start a petition to rename ISO E Super as such? 😉 *grin*

      • Do it! I’ll be your first signature 😉 I have the opposite problem to you, I love too easily and keep having to think of new ways to write ‘I love it!’ There have been a few that have been pretty vile (Grossmith Amelia I’m looking at you) but I couldn’t think of more than a paragraph to write so I ended up not writing anything. I need to start getting more picky, at this rate I’ll have a new favourite every week!
        Une Rose Chyree sounds right up my street though, I like a good conceptual rose with some oomph and I love the sound of that fruity bubblegum thing…..

  9. Kafka, your review is enchanting – and Undina’s response is priceless. (The reason I’m a fan of you both is right here! I don’t need to go anyplace else.) 😉

    I’ve never tried this perfume so can’t speak of it, but I am a fan of PoAL, and right along with Undina, you could hit me up twice on Sunday with that one and I’d be very happy. That said, Une Rose Chypree sounds fetching, too – if I run into it during my travels next month, I’ll try it, thanks to your praise.

    • Haha, Undina and I are at complete polar opposites when it comes to florals. For me, if I never smelled a single rose-centric perfume again, I wouldn’t even think twice about it, let alone mourn it. Undina, however, is the queen of the florals, especially iris and rose, so between us, we kinda cover the whole spectrum. As for Une Rose Chypree, I think you’d like it’s va-va-voom drama mixed in with very refined chypre playfulness. I really do. It’s very different from the feel and vibe of PoAL, so there is room for both, in my opinion. 🙂

  10. You make this sound so appealing and the fact that I love both rose and chypres makes it more tantalizing. There are a couple of things that worry me though…1. Tauers don’t work well for me most of the time. So far Noontide Petals is the only exception. 2. I am a bit scared of Damascena rose after my time with Keiko Mecheri’s Damascena which was just soooo sweet that I got sick of it very quickly. 3. Geranium usually rubs me the wrong way, I have yet to really find where I like it. Given that, you would think that I would want to run. Instead, I may just have to get a sample set and test out some other Tauers as well. Great Review K!

    • Given those 3 things, I don’t know….. hm. I get the sense that his other rose — Une Rose Vermeille which also has Damascena in it — is the really sweet, sugared, feminine one (which is why I’ve avoided it), so I know that one may be problematic for you. This one, though? It may work. Tauer fragrances haven’t worked for me before, either, no matter how much I appreciated the ones I’ve reviewed and how good I thought they were. There was always something that just barely held me back or that didn’t work for me. But this one really blew me away! If you do get samples, I would definitely try this one and perhaps eschew the Vermeille one.

  11. I really want to like his stuff but I just never do. I think Orange Star was the closest I came. My memories of Une Rose Chypree was of it being too much. Not too much rose like Tea Rose. Not too sweet like Pink Sugar. Just too much.

    • Too much drama, or too much potency? I can see it having a little of both issues going on. 🙂 As for the rest of the Tauer line, well, this was the first one that really blew me away. Up to now, there’s always been just one small thing or two that made things not work for me. I’m glad you found the one which finally worked for you, too! 🙂

  12. This sounds amazing! I love some rose scents, be they sweet, spicy, or anything in between. I’m hitting the Luckyscent website as soon as I get home. Love the review as always!

    • It says even more when a rose expert and aficionado finds the fragrance to be one of her favorites! 🙂 As for Rose Incensée, I have a sample and am really looking forward to trying it soon. I’ve heard URC’s beginning moments are a little like the Incensée one, but less smoky, so I can’t wait for the hardcore, full-on version. 🙂

  13. This is one I love a great deal, quite a bit more than Rose Incensée actually, which has this strange underlying Tang like smell on me. I don’t love the Iso E of course, but that can just be so difficult to avoid these days…

    I’ve missed commenting on your wonderful blog, dear Kafka, but I’ve been reading it all along! My little Russian Blue kitten, Koshka, seems a bit enamored of the pictures of the Hairy German and often meows at him lol.

    • Cacomixtle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You’ve been missed, woman! It’s wonderful to see you, sweetie, and been far, far too long. What a great name for your kitten; I bet he/she is adorable.

      As for Rose Chyprée, I’m glad you found a Tauer that works well on you. 🙂

  14. Not usually a fan of rosé scents, particularly those which have any hint of powder. However, I do love the way Chypre USED to be done in vintage scents, and the very detailed, descriptive way that you wrote of Rose Chypree- gonna have to find a reasonably-priced sample and give it a whirl.
    Many thanks, once again, for your beautiful, evocative review!! Personally, I’m surprised none of the fragrance houses have asked you to write reviews of their scents, as you do such a great job, you’d make ANYONE want to run out and buy a FB immediately!! 🙂

    • Hahaha, you’re very sweet, Lexi. I suspect I’m too… erm… unpredictable (?) for most fragrance houses, because when I don’t like something, I say so. When I really, really, REALLY don’t like something, I will rip it to shreds. And given that 8 out of 10 of my reviews are generally somewhere on the range of lukewarm to bored/indifferent/unimpressed to negative to sharply critical, I wouldn’t risk me either in their shoes. 😉 😀 There are much, much safer bloggers to deal with out there — and they do. lol

      As for Une Rose Chyprée, it truly was a very pleasant surprise to me since rose scents aren’t generally my favorite. (God, the hint of powder that you mentioned in some…. stay away from Frederic Malle’s Lipstick Rose! Stay far, far, FAR away. I had to scrub it off, for a variety of reasons, and I generally put up with a LOT!) But Andy Tauer’s scent is special and different, so I really hope you get to try it. You know, first time customers to Surrender to Chance (the sample service I use) used to get 10% off their first orders, and there are always monthly codes you can use in general to get a discount, so I hope an order is in your future. 😉

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  18. Aaaaargh, how did I miss this? Oh yes, I’ll blame it on the vacation. I came back to this review after reading Houndy’s where he linked to this. I know you’re tired of hearing me say I have a sample but have not tried it — I’ll wait for the perfect day to try it…it is definitely NOT an office scent judging by your review and also not for when I’ll be cooped up with near and dear ones who are scent-phobes.

    • LOL @ your perfume testing backlog. It seems to be vast and delayed indeed. As for Une Rose Chyprée, no, I personally wouldn’t recommend it for a conservative office environment, but God, is it good! I’m not one for roses, as you know, let alone roses with ISO E Super, but Une Rose Chyprée is gorgeous. It beats out PHI, imo, and I like Phi. (That said, I still prefer YSL’s Yvresse most of all.)

  19. Hi K. We’ve spoken before about the limited palette available to men, and in this review you’ve said that Une Rose Chypree is unisex. But I don’t genuinely believe that’s true. You have the pictures of the sylphs in the Dior gowns, and the picture of the stunning Ava Gardner, and you know those are the owners of this fragrance. I love Une Rose Chypree, it transports me, but I know it is someone else’s property. I can come and visit, and understand and love the things that you put out to make my visit more enjoyable, but they are yours, not mine, and I don’t believe I would gain anything by taking them away from you and trying to make them my own.

    • I know a number of men who own and love Une Rose Chyprée, and it is, in fact, one of the few rose (non-oud) perfumes that they feel they can comfortably wear. But perfume choice is an individual matter and depends on what a person feels comfortable with. I respect your feelings on the matter of this one.

      • And I certainly don’t mean to intrude on anyone’s consideration of what applies to them. They certainly understand that better than I do. I do not mean to claim that I am any arbiter of what anyone should feel. And we find ourselves here, with so many blessings so richly bestowed upon us, and who is to say what ought to be denied to whom. But by the same token, for myself I find that my experience is enriched by mystery, and that sometimes ownership and familiarity are less fulfilling.

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